Shotts' 100-series (Roklimo) Step-by-Step 5-year buildup

[ShottsCruisers]

Welcome folks. With all the requests I get about my 100's various lifts and modifications, I figured using this forum would make for a huge time saver for me (and others). It'll also benefit those contemplating how to build their 100-series for their needs.

Please note: I'm doing this to bring information and pictures to one place so people can see how various modifications compare. Because my 100 (Roklimo) has been a work in progress since 2001 I have experience with various suspension setups both on and off-road. I'll share them here. Also note that my intention is to not be the "100 genius". It's to share information from my perspective. Others may have different opinions and that's OK with me as different folks find different things more or less important. So, review my information here, do more reseach and then decide which mods are best for your truck. We'll also feature some comments and pics from other Cruiser owners where effective.

THIS THREAD WILL TAKE SOME TIME TO COMPLETE. IT WILL BE DONE IN PHASES. WE'LL START WITH A STOCK 2001 UZJ100 LAND CRUISER AND SHOW PROGRESS AS "ROKLIMO" WAS BUILT. YOU CAN PLAN TO SEE EVALUATIONS OF:

3 various tire sizes
3 different lift heights
3 different shock types and spring sets
Various modifications and other ways to improve your 100-series, some which are not my own. I'll update these advancements too as I learn about them.

SO, COME BACK FOR MORE INFORMATION AS I UPDATE IT. YOU CAN ALSO "SUBSCRIBE" TO THIS THREAD SO YOU GET AN AUTO UPDATE VIA EMAIL.

Thanks for reading. John

[ShottsCruisers]

STOCK FORM:

We purchased our 2001 because we knew it was a Land Cruiser. We knew that Land Cruisers were ultra-reliable, built to last, and off-road capable. That was enough for us. While we didn't understand all the in's and out's to four-wheeling (like IFS, lockers, etc) we knew it was a Land Cruiser or nothing for us.

The UZJ100 Cruiser comes outfitted from the factory with:

Live/solid rear axle
IFS front-end with CV joints and torsion bars
31-inch Michelin LTX lighter-duty all season tires

Other 4-wheeling importants consist of:

2-speed transfer case
Locking CDL (center differential)
Active-TRAC traction control

Safety feature:

VSC...Vehicle Skid Control

Here's some early pics from Charouleau Gap and Gunsight Pass. Sorry the digital camera I had back then was sooooo bad! Next updates have good pics.

Good factory ground clearance


Dealer-installed brush guard offered no protection. Instead it took away ground clearnace and bent easily (into the hood center requiring re-paint)


100-series turn well and tight on the trail


Rode very smoothly in stock form even on the rocky trails


Amazingly the LTX tires held up OK despite a few tough early trail runs


Overall impressions equipped from the factory:

Pros:
*Plush ride on and off-road
*Good ground clearance
*Large tire size for a OEM tire
*Working traction control system that helped the SUV to continue forward
*Flexable suspension (RTI tested at 563 by Four Wheeler Magazine)

Cons:
*Lacking a solid front axle was a big disadvantage stated by OTHERS. Would it turn out to be for us? Time would tell.
*Expensive to beat up on the trail.
*Lacking front and rear locking differentials was a big disadvantage stated by OTHERS. Would it turn out to be for us? Time would tell.
*Needs a more aggressive and larger tire (if a larger tire would fit?).
*Needs a suspension lift and rock sliders in order to run more serious trails.
*Needs a different front bumper. One that doesn't hang down so low.
*Running boards have to go ASAP or get mangled on a trail (which did happen in a mud puddle on a dirt road)

Conclusion: Equipped this way, the Cruiser is best suited for on-highway travel (short and long distance) with light-duty trail use. IF you happened upon a trail's "rough spot" this thing somehow would make it through.

NEXT UP: Remove the running boards and swap out the tires (while researching other modification choices out there...which were near "non-existant" in 2001 )

[ShottsCruisers]

OBJECTIVE: MODIFY THIS LAND CRUISER FOR FOUR-WHEELING:

Plan: Before working on improving the vehicle's strengths, here we'll eliminate whatever the negative's are that exist. They consist of:

1. Removal of front brush guard to improve front approach angle.
2. Removal of side-step OEM running boards to improve ground clearance.
3. Upgrade tires to the off-road style (within reason)

Numbers 1 and 2 need no explanation. Both the guard and the boards were removed in about an hour. They simply unbolted and were discarded. Actually, the boards came off first, the tires went on second, and the brush guard came off last.

Tires:

Our challenge was to find a tire size that would fit now (at stock height) and also not look silly after the future suspension lift was complete. After some research we determined that a 285-75x16 size would fit in stock form and was a popular choice on the lifted 80-series, so we made that our choice. In a tire we wanted:

*Aggressive off-road design
**Quiet as possible on-road ride
***Comfortable on-road ride
****Mud performance secondary

Our choice was the BFG AT KO. The 285 is basically a 33" tire as it measures 32.8" in height. The AT's are a costly tire. Some feel they are over priced. We still decided to go with the AT as it's the #1 selling light truck AT tire on the market. Gotta be reason why? (We hoped) Info here: http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/overv...t-a-ko/44.html

Evauation:

GREAT IMPROVEMENT! First we did some local testing. These things gripped much better than the Michelins. They climbed and held us steady on decents.



We thought they looked good under the truck too. Aggressive but not too aggressive.


So....success! Fit's (no rubbing), functions, adds 1-inch ground clearance over stock, and meets all our expectations.


Evaluation: These changes (mainly the tire upgrade) made for a very positive improvement. We gave up VERY little in on-road ride quality while we gained off-road capability and durability. Combine that with added ground clearance and we had a vehicle that was up a step from before for certain...capability-wise. NOTE: The 285 spare fit in the stock location and with the OEM hitch in place.

Next up: WE HAVE TO FIND SOME UPGRADES! Need a new front bumper for certain. It just hangs down too far. We've also found some information on a possible suspension lift though we don't know if it's actually for sale yet? And....who has, or when will they have rock sliders. Gotta have both to run tough trails.....especially the sliders ASAP. Imagine the rocker panel damage on a new SUV?

[ShottsCruisers]

FOUND A FRONT BUMPER!

ARB USA...we luv you man! Their new "Sahara Bar" and "Bull Bar" were shipping!

Experienced Cruiser folks directed us to ARB. With a little research and some time finding a source we opted for the lighter-weight Sahara Bar. We got a great deal from Off Road Unlimited in Scottsdale, AZ. They had all the parts and services we wanted:

*ARB Sahara Bar
*IPF 130W round lights
*Warn 8000i winch (the largest the Sahara could fit at that time, now 9500)
*Custom paint matching
*Install

So, we were off to Scottsdale. 2-days later it was ready. WOW, what a sweet lookin' setup! We were really pleased with the looks, the design and the install by ORL. We really liked the integrated lights within the bumper. The mini IPF's also spread a bright and very wide pattern, great while turning.

OH OH.....why is the front-end sitting about 1/2 of an inch lower than before? Obviously this was due to the weight difference of the new bumper, lights, and winch. No fear here though. We re-adjusted the factory torsion bars back to their original height and all was well. Kind of. More on this later......

Road test: Let's start out easy....here's a few shotts of the new install:



Didn't hang down as low in the front for certain!


With all working properly we hit some tough trails. Here's a shot from the Broken Arrow Trail near Sedona, AZ. In early 2002 this trail was somewhat difficult in spots. The Arrow had many ledges and stairsteps that required care. We noticed the added weight of the front add-ons made for a squishier ride when decending obstacles. Added care had to be taken, though with the overall clearance the improvement far exceeded the extra concerns while dropping off of rocks.


Wheel lifting down Edge of the Earth on FR42 (Tonto Natl Forest)


What about capability?

While I do not have many pictures of the 100, we did attend a run with the AzLCA to the Superior Powerline. This trail was moderate in most parts, however, due to a gate closure we were forced to exit via a very tight and difficult canyon which many usually bypass by choice. We had no choice (other than returning 5-hours in reverse). The 100 made it through though it was very difficult. I had spotters on both sides and at times were within an inch of my new 100. I was freaking. The canyon's exit was also extreme as I still had my stock suspension. In any event, some rock stacking and great spotting by Joe Chott got me past the exit. The exit did claim some damage to a locked and loaded FJ55 on 37's. How did the 100 make it through? I didn't even have sliders yet! Oh, and it was this trip where I really learned the factory Active TRAC traction control really worked. Here's some pictures from the run:

I was there:


Canyon exit:


To show what the 100 went through equipped this way, here's some pictures from future trips:





COMMENT:

One negative thing we experienced (and often) since adding the front bumper...it was front heavy. This came into play when decending steep and off-cambered hills. The 100 was a wheel-lifter. While we never got ourselves into trouble we sure were thinking of a rear bumper to balance the weight out. (More on that to come)

[ShottsCruisers]

CONTINUED:

Pics for example only. The vehicle was lifted on these pics. Wheel about 2.5 feet off the ground:

Same spot...80-series with front and rear bumpers. Some of the diff is added flex, much is the fact the 100 was front-heavy. His wheel is about 1 foot off the ground:


Another example


More comments: In time it was discovered that the OEM factory torsion bars were too soft to safely support the weight of a steel bumper and winch. Some breakages were reported in Australia. If you add a front bumper and winch you should immediately upgrade your t-bars.

Evaluation: The front bumper allowed me to run the recent trails with success. On Powerline alone I would have destroyed my stock bumper on the ledges and rocks. Capability and durability have been increased. I do have the concern about lifting rear wheels as you can feel the front-end dropping down and popping the rear up. It might sound rediculous, though with each upgrade we've done we've been allowed greater off-road success. Nothing we have done has been a step backwards. Even ride quality is still excellent.

What's next.......we've almost made a decision on a suspension lift, AND....nobody has sliders yet! Errrr!

[ShottsCruisers]

SUSPENSION LIFT OBJECTIVE: To raise the vehicle height in order to run more challenging trails. Adding height allows for:

*Fitment of a larger tire
*Better ground clearance
*Greater approach and departure angles
*Better articulation for vehicle stability off-road

Thank God for the World Wide Web. We were looking, calling, talking to every one we could about suspension lift options for the IFS 100-series. We were in the middle of discussion the possibles on Yahoo's 100 website and all of a sudden I received this email from Matt Qualey of Qualey Enterprises way back in New England:

"Hi John

As the owner of a shop that works on primarily Land Cruisers, I just wanted to pass on a tip, or perhaps a warning to you. This is not intended as a solicitation, just one Cruiser owner talking to another.

We wary of cranking up those front factory bars. We have noticed that over time excessively preloaded bars will bend the adjustment bolts. If you ever have to re-adjust or remove you're almost guaranteed to strip the threads out of the bolt and saddle (and your shoulder after cranking on one huge breaker bar!) . Toyota does NOT make replacements. We have a stock of custom made bolts and replacement saddles, but it was a major pain trying to sort the mess out. We tell our customers to save up and replace the factory bars with the much heavier SwayAWay units. They're less than $400.00 and make a vast difference in suspension feel and ride quality.

Congratulations on using your truck for its intended purpose by the way. I've got some pics of a customer's truck with 36s if you'd like some food for thought.

Take care
Matt Qualey
Qualey Enterprises"

That was the start. Matt and I spoke about details and pricing and in about 2 weeks the gear was on the way.
Meanwhile I had also linked up with Drexx Laggui. It turned out that Drexx already had a lifted UZJ and confirmed the info Matt had told me. So, with Drexx's trail-tested info I was stoked!

Components were:

OME 865 Rear Coils
OME N100/N101 shocks
SwayAWay 1661 front torsion bars

Installation took my mechanic about four hours as this was his first Land Cruiser upgrade. All went well except that when we road tested it, the truck pulled to the right 24/7 and when accellerating is was plain extreme. Concerned we re-looked at everything and hit the alignment shop. After alignment it drove perfectly. In fact, here's our impressions of this setup on-road:

*Smoooooth
*Handling was much improved. Less sway and much less dive (the lift compensated well for that heavy bumper/winch combo. It cornered and handled more like a "sport truck".
*Looked fantastic especially with the 33" tires.
*Did I say smooth? This was a concerned.....that we'd loose the plush ride. We did not. In fact we far prefer the ride with this suspension compared to stock.

So, here's some completed pics. Remember, at this stage we had 2" OME lift and 33" tires:






Evaluation:
With the lift installed we were eager to see how it changed things on the trail. First up was the Sedona area. We were familiar with the trails before the lift so this would make for a good way to compare after.

WE WERE THRILLED! Less dragging, more clearance, more aggressive lines taken....the research and wait paid off, no doubt.





Ride quality on the trail (and dirt roads) remained very cushy, despite the slightly stiffer Old Man Emu suspension. The front-end could benefit by a slightly stiffer shock. In fact, about 1-year (or so) after adding my OME lift, OME released a slightly stiffer N133 front shock. For the record, the 133 did make an improvement, is recommended, though for me on a vehicle with an ARB bumper and winch, still would prefer an ever stiffer front shock.

What's up next? I've been talking to Slee Off-Road about sliders. Now that the 100 is lifted you know I'll want to take more risky trails and more risky "lines" on the trails....gotta have protection though!

[ShottsCruisers]

They are here! The first set of Slee 100-series Rock Sliders off his production line! I got 'em!

*These things are built like a tank!
*The diameter of the tube section is huge!
*They go on easily...just be careful to place the mounts between the frame and your brake lines. Don't crush those brake lines!

So there's not a lot of story here. Let's get to some pics that show off the Slee Sliders.

Note: Most pics shown here has the vehicle lifted more and with larger tires...details to come on all that.

Golden Spike in Moab, Utah


Marana, AZ


Coke Ovens (Z-turn), AZ


FR42 (north half) Tonto National Forest


Conclusion:
These were worth their hefty cost. 5 years now and they've never moved. They are easy to touch up as they will get grinded down to the steel by the rocks. What they protect far outweighs their cost!
Slee's website: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/...iders_main.htm

What options are left at this point and how did we feel about making them?

We had a notable trail rig equipped as it was. Like most wheelers though, we are always thinking of how to improve our ride. Back at this point, here's what we were considering:

1. We wanted a rear bumper to hold the spare and hi-lift though we demanded the type that offered aggressive ground clearance. We seen the Kaymar and TJM though they looked as large as the stock bumper so we would pass on them. We also wanted the rear bumper to even out the weight between the front and rear. This would add stability because the nose wouldn't want to "dive" any longer when going down the hills.

2. Safari Snorkel? Yikes! This 100 looked so good and was new. Do we cut the front fender?

3. Wish there was a way to fit 35-inch tires. We've heard talk....nothing yet though.

4. Adding ARB lockers was also a consideration. Drexx had added them already. He might have been the first in the US to do that. We're weren't sure. We went on many runs with locked 80-series and the TRAC-equipped 100 always seemed to get us through. Should we spend the money?

5. What about lower gears? Do they make them? Do we need them?

[ShottsCruisers]

Safari Snorkel goes on!

I got a call from my good buddy Doron Strassman. He told me a story about his recent wheeling trips around the Parker and Bill Williams River areas here in AZ. While crossing the Williams with his family, Doron became very concerned as the water rose to the top of his hood. They weren't under long, though long enough for Doron to check the engine out after the crossing. He discovered his air cleaner box was FULL of water! A few more seconds under and Doron's V8 could of been toast. He freaked. I freaked when I heard this. Knowing we both were planning on running trails for years we figured being safe is better than sorry. I ordered mine ASAP.

Install was pretty tame other than cutting into the vehicle's fender. The toughest part was deciding what to do about the factory antenna that had to be removed as you can't have it AND the snorkel. We looked around at various vehicles and decided on a OEM antenna from a Dodge truck. Yes, my Land Cruiser is not 100% "made in Japan" any longer. The Dodge install went well and is very strong to date.

Here's some completed pics of the install. Speaking of antennas, that's a Firestick mounted to my ARB bumper (new hole drilled into bumper) for my CB radio.






More details can be found at:
http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/ga...58323#44067441

Conclusion:

Pros:
1. Makes for a water tight seal protecting the motor from hydrolock
2. With the air intake being farther from the ground the motor sucks cleaner air
3. Some say you get horsepower gains due to the ram-air effect. I doubt this is the case.

Cons:
1. Ugly (in my opinion)
2. Not reversable/removable without huge expense (new fender and paint job)
3. The endless looks and questions from spectators and other drivers.
"What's that"
"Is that your exhaust?
"Is that for water"
"Why do you have that in Arizona?

We already know what's next! Doron has been measuring, calculating, and thinking about the front end of the UZJ. Doron's a missile designer. He's a lot smarter than me as I'm just a: :grinpimp: He's gonna do it first and see how it goes. I gotta wait. For what you ask? The next update will tell the tale but for now, here's a clue:

[ShottsCruisers]

OK...that last drawing gave it away!

Front differential drop designed by Doron Strassman

Objective: It's three fold. By lowering our front differential we hoped to accomplish three things.

1. Restore CV axle angle closer to the stock position.
2. To be able to re-adjust the front torsion bars for added lift while keeping the CV angles within range.
3. We hope there will enough lift available with good CV angle and enough down-travel to fit 35" (315x75-16) tires.

Full details are on my website: http://shottscruisers.smugmug.com/ga...58314#44065969

The job was pretty easy. My mechanic completed it in about 90-minutes. Everything matched up exactly like Doron had measured it out. We figured we lowered the overall height of the diff by just under one inch. The skid plate did require some spacers on a few of the holes in order to clear the newly lowered parts.







Doron sent the details of this mod to Slee Off-Road. Slee sells this mod as a kit. Information can be found here: http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/....htm#diff_drop

I personally recommend adding the diff drop to any size lift on the 100. At the very least it improves your CV angle which increases the life of the axle and the boot.

QUESTION? Will there be enough remaining lift and down-travel to fit 35-inch tires? Doron got me this far....I think I'll experiment with the 35's and report back to Doron.

[ShottsCruisers]

PLAN: LIFT THE TRUCK HIGHER SO 35-INCHERS WILL FIT PROPERLY

Projected changes that needed to occur:

Lift the front and rear ends of the vehicle about one-inch more
A. Lift front via torsion bar adjust
B. Lift rear via two 10mm trim packs (I did not want to change spring type due to the possbile effect on the ride quality.
C. We're guessing there might be some other adjustments needed but didn't know what they might be.

First up: We added two 10mm OME trim packers to each spring. These sit atop the rear springs and add 20mm if lift (about one inch). Since there's no spring change the ride is the same just one-inch taller.

Next: We re-adjusted the T-bars....first time was by sight in order to make the truck more level compared to the rear. (Less "rake") A road test revealed 24/7 front wheel lifting which is dangerous to your life and your CV joints as the lifted wheel would spin then instantly stop as it retouched the ground.

Last: Spare tire didn't fit with the OEM hitch. We removed the hitch and the 315 fit nicely. On the 100 the spare doesn't hang down as low as on the 80-series. Others have also found ways to further raise the spare from the ground.

We dropped the front about 1/4" inch at a time and kept road testing. We finally settled on what measured 2.75" above stock. To date, I've kept this height as it seems like the best compromise between Lift Height vs Suspension Down-travel (droop).

Here's the end result:


We luvved the look of the truck at the new height and with the bigger tires. Now we wondered how this change would effect our every day use of the 100. After days of driving, here's what we determined were "on-road" issues:

*Loss of some power. 35" vs 31" (stock) tires represent a 12% change in ratio. We noticed a slight reduction of "zip" from the red lights. We also noticed more downshifting on the highway though we still had plenty of passing power.

Solution: Regear the diffs to 4.88 which would be an almost bone stock ratio. To date, we have not done this. Cost for me is not worth it. Truck has the power though I wish I could regain the lost crawl ratio on the trails.

*At near full turn we experienced some mild rubbing in the front. It wasn't bad though it was enough that we figured it could mess up the tires.

Solution: We readjusted the front turn-stops. This took about 15 minutes via trail and error. once corrected it's rare for my to rub anything. Note: Some have added front wheel spacers to correct for this. Knowing the added stress spacers cause, I opted to not do this. Others who have, have not reported any added trouble with maintenance, that I am aware of. Here's a picture of the turn-stops (the little rubber stopper that hits the rim as the wheel turns):


Okay....so what about off-road?

Our experience off-road was incredible. The added size cut the difficulty factor by a pretty good level. Considering the 35-incher sticks out 1-inch farther out and 1-inch farther down it made climbing ledges and rocks more of a breeze. The bigger tires also swallowed the holes right up. We did notice two off-road issues:

1. On occassion, at higher speeds, the shocks will "top out" due to the lack of down-travel. The noise is irritating though after 70K miles there's been no added shock wear or trouble. It's not a "big" issue. It's an minor annoyance.

2. At full rear flex the rubbing was pretty bad (to us...others have lived with it). This we wanted to address. We took 2x2" steel and made spacers to lower the bump-stops (by 2"). The result was zero rubbing. While this did reduce some articulation, we felt the need to protect the tire outweighed the loss of flex. Future trail trips confirmed our decision though we did miss the extra droop that the lowered bump stops took away. (We did end up finding a fix for this down the road!)

Pic:


Conclusion:

This is one modification I would not hessitate to recommend if the vehicle will be used on the trails. The added ground clearance, tire size, and patch size all made for big plusses in the rough stuff. It's taken the 100 to another height (pun intended) on the capability ladder.

If the owner does not plan on running difficult or extreme trails, then I'd stick with the 33" size. With 33's you'll not lose power or any articulation. Smaller tires are also easier on your other truck parts.

Here's a few action shotts right after slapping on the 35's:






NOTE: I've run the 100 with 315's now for about 80K miles. I'd never go back. Here's some added comments and observations:

*Gas mileage stays around 12-14 around town. About 14-15 on the highway. (I am a leadfoot)

*Power-wise I am still happy. If I ever wreck a rear diff then I will regear. Otherwise I'm good.

*I go through brakes a bit quicker, though stopping distances are excellent and seem near uneffected.

*I have had to have my front wheel bearings repacked 4 times.

*At 110K I had my 3rd steering rack put on.

*No CV leakage or breakage. I did have a CV go bad due to boot install error at the dealer. The CV's can handle the 35s and my off-roading trips have proven it.

What was next on the "upgrade list"? Not a whole lot. Here were my thoughts back then:

*Lockers? Dang....don't have to have them, but.....naw. We'll drive this thing as is. TRAC always seems to get me through! We have an 80-series for some "locker-only" trail.

*Rear bumper? Gotta have it! When will Slee have his out?

*What will make the truck flex better? Shocks? Arms? Will someone be coming out with a more aggressive lift sometime soon? 4"? 6"?