Some basic maintenance questions

[Black Dog]

This question isn't for my jeep, but rather for my 1989 S10 4-cylinder 4x2 pickup with 205k on the clock. I got it about a year ago and put 15k on it since then and am thinking of doing some maintenance to try and get another 100k out of it.

I know from changing my oil that I've got baaad engine sludge. So what I want to do is try to clean some of that out. I'm thinking if I take the valve cover off and drop the oil pan and clean those areas really well that should take care of most of that problem, but is there any way to flush the whole thing out and get rid of every last bit of sludge?

Secondly, I've never dropped an oil pan or removed a valve cover before. I know that obviously I want to drain all the oil before I take the pan off, otherwise it might be a big mess. What I'm wondering though is if I have to buy new gaskets or if I can just use red RTV silicone for the oil pan and the valve cover? My pickup is a butt ugly piece of junk and if I can get away with not spending a couple bucks on a gasket I would be pretty happy.

 

[Bikemobile]

Leave the pan alone. You dont want to start a bunch of new leaks. You can open up the valve cover and scrape yhat sludge out. Maybe try some seafoam?

 

[Hawk Thor]

Put a quart of ATF in the engine instead of one quart of motor oil. Let the motor idle for half an hour, don´t drive it or rev it, just idle. We just want the motor to get hot and the oil/ATF mix to flow through it.

Now drain the oil, remove the oilfilter and drop the oilpan, clean out the oilpan and valve cover. Check the block and the head out, do either of them have any sludge or deposits? Try to clean out what you can.


After cleaning out the valve cover and oilpan I would fill the engine with the cheapest oil you can find, or oil you are willing to drain in 500 miles. Put a decent filter on it. Change the oil 2 or 3 times and you should see your oil draining out cleaner and cleaner.

When the oil comes out looking good then fill the engine up with the motor-oil you plan to run in it and put a good filter on it.

When you have the oilpan off make sure you get every last piece of gasket of the mating surface. I usually scrape it with a razorblade paint scraper, and if I'm not totally happy with it I'll clean it up with 120 grit sandpaper. Do the same to the engine blocks mating surface. Clean both surfaces well with brake & parts cleaner and then apply the RTV.

A gasket is not neccesary, the RTV will work fine.

 

[thospb]

If you are going to use RTV, make sure it is a product labeled "safe for use with O2 sensors" as some products will produce a vapor as they cure which coats the O2 sensor.

 

[Black Dog]

I never would have thought of running some other fluid with the oil. The thing burns oil and I have to add a quart about every 400 miles so I don't buy the expensive stuff, just the $2 oil from Napa. I don't like spending money on this rusty old beater. If I sold the roof rack off the topper I could probably buy a whole new truck. :ylsmoke:

 

[Hawk Thor]

Maybe you could part it out on Craigslist and use the money to get a Yota. That's probably the best thing you can to that thing. :sombrero:

 

[Paladin]

X2 on the ATF plan.

 

[Quill]

Use good gaskets whenever possible. ATF fluid works well, Marvel Mystery oil works too but is more expensive. They sell stuff that is an engine flush but most of the time it is just diesel fuel. The problem you might encounter after a flush is oil leaks. Sometimes crud keeps it from leaking. It is harder to do, but make sure the oil in the pan is good and warm before draining it. This will get rid of the sludge. Protect yourself though from hot oil and hot engine parts. Put a can of Engine Restore in with oil changes.

 

[Black Dog]

Maybe you could part it out on Craigslist and use the money to get a Yota. That's probably the best thing you can to that thing. :sombrero:

I actually have been looking really seriously into maybe getting a Toyota Tundra to pull our Airstream with, but the idea of $700 a month car payments don't sit too well with me.

 

[rusty_tlc]

If your adding a quart of oil every 400 miles the rings are shot, not much sense wasting time on trying to clean up the inside. You need to either re-build the engine or replace it with a lower mileage engine from a wrecking yard.

I think I would either donate it and get the tax write off or sell it to Pick and Pull.

 

[Black Dog]

I need the pickup for now because my jeep is out of commission again. It seems like every time I fix something on my jeep something else breaks or I hit a deer or something and that sidelines it for a while so I'm stuck driving the beater. Donating this truck to someone would be more of an insult than charity I think.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Maybe it's time to get a Toyota, I'm just sayin'
:sombrero:

 

[Black Dog]

I totally agree its time to get a Toyota! I really like the Tundras, they look cool and are pretty reliable and drivable. Unfortunately, they are expensive and I'm probably going to have to use my jeep and my harley as trade for it.

 

[rusty_tlc]

I totally agree its time to get a Toyota! I really like the Tundras, they look cool and are pretty reliable and drivable. Unfortunately, they are expensive and I'm probably going to have to use my jeep and my harley as trade for it.

Look for an early to mid 80's mini truck. They can be had for cheap if you look around. Great wheelers and cheap & easy to modify.

 

[Herbie]

If your adding a quart of oil every 400 miles the rings are shot, not much sense wasting time on trying to clean up the inside. You need to either re-build the engine or replace it with a lower mileage engine from a wrecking yard.

I think I would either donate it and get the tax write off or sell it to Pick and Pull.

x2 on this. Opening up either end of the engine just to clean things up isn't a great idea. The reason you have sludge is from the oil burning - it's the remains of incomplete combustion. If you're in a fix and can't afford to rebuild or replace the vehicle right now, just limp it along and do the "right thing" as soon as you can.

YOU ARE NOT GOING TO GET ANOTHER 100K out of the engine without a rebuild, and sooner rather than later. The longer you wait, the higher the chance of scored walls, etc. which will complicate (make more expensive) the rebuild, etc.

As a "middle of the road" solution - a junkyard pull of another motor might be cheaper than a rebuild. It's a new can of worms with it's own potential problems, but there you go...