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Thread: Quick and easy mounting option for roof rack on shell

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  1. #1

    Default Quick and easy mounting option for roof rack on shell

    I wanted to share my roof rack install on my 2005 Tacoma with Leer cap (180 something, mid-high shell).

    Started with Yakima tracks, kit # 8001135
    http://www.orsracksdirect.com/yakima...ks-60inch.html
    Drill through roof, install with tons of silicone sealant (already stayed dry inside through two days of rain). Take care to mount outboard as far as possible to miss the honeycombed center section if you have one. Stock the kit contains hardware for six thru-screws (10-32) per side, this could be increased to 9 with extra parts from Yakima (I plan to do this down the road for good measure - PN 8810155 $10). Each of the 12 inside mounts is a 1.5" round plastic hemisphere with steel threaded insert. These are actually handy for mounting hardware to the inside roof - for instance I'm going to hang a webbing 'shelf' for skis up there.

    Megawarrior basket rack with extension kit (pretty ordinary, though I replaced the hardware with stainless screws and used nylock nuts and loctite)

    Yakima expects you to buy tower kits and crossbars. Then, your roof basket ends up 4" elevated off the roof and puts more torque on the tracks. I found the tracks are just the right size for 3/8-16 carriage bolts (some were tight and had to be wiggled into place with pliers). The Megawarrior brackets are made for a very sloppy fit with 1/4-20 hardware. So I overdrilled for a tight fit for 3/8. The plastic lower bracket is easy. The steel upper bracket requires a drill press. Then the rack mounts directly to the tracks. I used nylocks and lock washers and 80 ft-lbs just for peace of mind.

    The rack sits only 1" above the shell for less shear load, less frontal area and air drag. There is about 3/8" deflection with my 185 lbs bouncing dead center as far from the supports as possible. That said, I plan to add a third bracket kit in the middle as soon as I can get the parts from Yakima (PN 8870040), just for overkill. Likewise, the intended mounting has "ears" on the brackets to capture the main spars of the Megawarrior and prevent the rack shifting side-to-side. Once I tightened down the brackets, I could not get the rack to move with any amount of shoving. But this afternoon I'm making some swaged cables to connect each bracket to the nearby spar to prevent shifting (unless someone has a simpler idea?)

    Photos:








    Comments welcome.
    Last edited by fourfa; 05-19-2011 at 06:58 PM.

  2. #2
    Forgot to add: the extended Megawarrior is just the right width for three MFC/MWCs flat side-by-side. Six go in front of the bar. Full-size spare aft of the bar, room for one duffel or whatnot to the side of the wheel..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Albuquerque NM
    Posts
    62
    Slick, strong, good! Of course there could be some bowing in the center that could rub the top of the shell; but that's still just incredible for function, and looks great!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    275
    nice idea, I might look into that and lower mine down instead of the towers.

    However, one problem, your rack can be stolen by someone with a wrench. The regular Yakima mounts incorporate locks at the track and locks to hold the rack to the cross bars. Granted, someone would have to be very desperate to steal it, but food for thought.

  5. #5
    Good point. Thinking about tamper-resistant nuts (McMaster P/N 90080A260, http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-tampe...t-nuts/=ddrvle )

    Drove from SF CA to Prudhoe Bay and back in May/June/July, plus lots of other miles around Alaska. Loaded with 80L of gas, 20L of water, and full size mounted spare for a good number of those miles. One of the megawarrior screws holding its sections together chipped a bit of paint on the shell, from some small amount of deflection. Ordering a third bracket kit now and that problem will be gone.
    Last edited by fourfa; 07-29-2011 at 02:26 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    2,286
    Looks good man, I like how low it is.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Camarillo, CA.
    Posts
    517
    Very nice. I'm going to sketch out how that would work on my SnugTop. Thanks for the write-up.
    Richard "Send lawyers, guns, and money..."
    1996 1500 4x4 5.9l, 4.10s pushing 285/75R16, 2" lift with Bilstein 5100s, Snugtop cap, ARB front bumper w/ Warn 15k winch, IPF fogs & LightForce Strikers...oh hell, it's just a truck!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    northeast coast
    Posts
    561
    as strong as the rack to cap connection is, what is the method holding the cap to the bed?

    could there be enough dynamic movement (i'm not an engineer!) to spread the cap base off the truck bed rails when loaded & wheeling?

    thanks

  9. #9
    The cap is held to the bed's load rails at four spots with bolts. The cap can't spread. What the cap can do is shear a little left and right at the top, while the base remains in place. I have seen complaints from time to time that long-term heavy roof storage can lead to cracking in the fiberglass at the upper corners. I don't think I'll be loading mine to the point that it's a problem. But I did notice a little more flex than usual, such that the locking tabs that hold the window closed had a strange wear pattern.

    The burly solution to that would be a tube bent just so to fit inside the rear edge of the cap, with welded plates to bolt to the bed sides and the bolts through the cap

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    NorCal
    Posts
    4
    5 months later... how's this thing holding up?

    I have the same shell and am considering doing the yakima track option for mounting my cargo rack or surfboard racks. Anything you would do different 2nd time around?

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