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Thread: The Rolling Restoration & Customization Of My 88' RRC

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198

    Default The to do list just became longer...

    Hello everyone,

    Sorry I haven't updated in a little bit, but I have been waiting for parts. In the mean time though, I was trying to figure out the floor mounting structure for the rear seats and drawer system; however, when I was stripping the interior out to look at the placement of that structure, I found a little moisture under the rear rubber mats (which is the dryer place in the Rover). So I immediately walked to the front and put my hand underneath the front rubber mats. Both the driver side and passenger side were wet underneath. The passenger side in particular though was sopping wet; it was like wringing out a car washing sponge (see pictures).
    Keep in mind that I have already been through this once when first bought it. I stripped, primed, and repainted the whole floor because there was a small amount of surface rust on the floor. So you might be able to imagine my surprise/frustration to find that there was rust in the same places again. I decided this time I was going to make sure it would not happen again! The problems that caused were many, because to take care of it in a way that it would not happen again meant that I had to push my plans for the rest of the interior forward so it is going to be a very busy month for me. Added to the list besides the rear floor structure is now: the modified 95’ RRC steering column, modifying the dash, custom console, lowering the front seats, auxiliary fuse box, other misc. wiring, and sound insulation (Lizard Skin).

    I am in the middle of the interior right now and have it completely stripped out. So figured I would show you a few in-progress pictures. As well as the pictures of where the leak was coming from. It turns out that the vent door foam was perished and was letting in a lot of water. If you are curious about your Rover, check under the front floor mats for signs of water, then pop out the outside vents on the cowl and you be able to see the vent door. I took it a step further and removed my cowl entirely to redo the seam sealer and check for rust. BEWARE! Removing the cowl is a careful two or even three man job, do not attempt it by yourself!

    Anyway, there will be more work going on this week and I will try to update with pictures but in the mean time feel free to ask questions and I hope you all have a good one!
    IMG_4226.JPGIMG_4227.JPGIMG_4228.JPGIMG_4230.JPGIMG_4231.JPGIMG_4234.JPGIMG_4262.JPG

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bedford, UK
    Posts
    566
    I get the same problem with wet foot wells on my 95 RRC, particularly the driver's side (UK, so right hand side like you suffer). I don't have a sun roof, so can rule that out a source. I'm told the o-rings on the heater matrix joints perish and split, but I'm not loosing any coolant, the water in the foot wells doesn't have any odour or taste of anti-freeze and I had understood the o-rings to be a P38 rather than RRC problem...

    I'm also told that the top of the bulkhead below the scuttle panel you removed often becomes perforated with rust holes and that causes the leaks into the foot wells. It's a big water trap. Can you see any drain holes for that void? I've yet to remove my scuttle panel - I hope to get the vehicle repainted in the next year of so (I've been saying that for at least five years, though), so would deal with it all in one go.
    It's not broken, it's British!

    www.nickslandrover.co.uk

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198

    Default Pictures of the amount of water found

    So I forgot to post pictures of the actual amount of water I found inside my Rover. Keep in mind that two years ago I went through sanded out the rust, primed everything, and painted the floors. I also replaced all of the sound deadening that is glued to those mattes two years ago as well. So things can happen pretty quickly. You might take a look under your Rovers rubber floor mattes...just in case.IMG_4139.JPGIMG_4148.JPGIMG_4143.JPGIMG_4150.JPGIMG_4152.JPG

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198

    Default Cleaning, inspecting, and organizing the wiring

    So on todays agenda was to start cleaning, inspecting, and organizing the wiring. Tomorrow I am going to be starting the cutting, fabricating, and welding for the two patch panels in the floor and also for lowering the front seats. I am not looking to cut, burn, or in any way cause a problem with the wiring, so I am taping the dashboard wiring out of the way for the moment and also beginning the process of putting plastic sheathing on all the wires in the vehicle because it never came from the factory with any protection for the wires. While I am putting the sheathing on the wires, I am inspecting them for nicks, cuts, melted insulating, and really sharp bends not to mention detangling and simplifying complicated areas.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198
    Here is what the wiring looks like after I have finished sheathing it. The purple wires by the window is the dome light wires that have been zip tied up out of the way to protect them.
    IMG_4425.JPGIMG_4428.JPGIMG_4452.JPG
    Last edited by rrclassicbt550; 06-15-2011 at 03:39 AM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    SugarHood SL UT
    Posts
    214
    Jon,

    Looking good. What is you plan for shortening the front seat bases?

    Mike and Myles

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198

    Default Let the drilling, cutting, and fabrication begin!

    So now that all of the wiring is out of the way, I can get to the metal work. Up first is lowering the front seats. I started by taking many many measurements and pictures. Then I drilled out all of the spot welds and cut out part of the transmission tunnel. There are no clearance issues on the drivers side. The passengers side will be quite interesting because there is much less clearance. For now I will post some pictures because I gotta get back out to the garage and work.

    IMG_4507.JPGIMG_4512.JPGIMG_4515.JPGIMG_4518.JPGIMG_4522.JPGIMG_4523.JPGIMG_4527.JPGIMG_4533.JPGIMG_4534.JPGIMG_4540.JPG

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198
    And now for the transmission tunnel. I only flipped the panel I cut out to see if would make a good template. I am glad to say that it will work fairly well as a template.

    IMG_4547.JPGIMG_4550.JPGIMG_4551.JPGIMG_4556.JPGIMG_4559.JPGIMG_4560.JPG

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Durango, Colorado
    Posts
    100
    Quote Originally Posted by rrclassicbt550 View Post
    When I was installing the new hoses I found a tool that is for a popping the door panels off, is well suited for getting at the heater hoses that are connected to the front of the intake manifold. I also found that one of the hoses rubs on the valley gasket so I used a piece of the old radiator hose to help protect it.

    I have on e of those tools I swear I have used it for more random jobs then I ever imagined. Best 10 buck I ever spent

    Nice build up too!
    '95 FZJ 80 Land Cruiser "El Guapo Grande"
    '81 FJ 60 Land Cruiser "the great white goat"
    "and that rug really tied the room together, am I wrong dude?"
    http://www.intentadventures.com

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Southwest WA
    Posts
    198
    Quote Originally Posted by outinthewoods View Post
    I have on e of those tools I swear I have used it for more random jobs then I ever imagined. Best 10 buck I ever spent

    Nice build up too!
    lol Yeah that thing has come in handy so many times. It is kind of funny though, I have used for many things but I have yet to use it for popping the door panels off which is what it is intended for.

    Thanks for the compliments

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