Thread: Replacing CV boot

  1. #1
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    Default Replacing CV boot

    Maybe because I'm new at replacing CV boot on this truck, but man what a pain. Anyways...I'll have pic of my last install posted so everyone can see how it's done the right way, without taking out the whole front axle, not that I did, but I sure came close to removing the whole front axle!

    Step 1: Remove caliper and caliper hanger.
    2. Remove front hub and the locking e-ring.
    3. Remove retaining clip to inner boot, both sides, the small and large retaining clip.
    4. Clean off the axle grease from CV joint.
    5. There's a circlip keeping the inner CV shaft from popping out, remove this circlip so you can pull out the axle later.
    6. Separate the upper control arm from the ball joint. Now is a good time to replace the ball join or flip it. This should give you enough room to pull out the shaft from the wheel bearing side and remove the CV shaft to replace boots. If not, you'll have to remove the lower ball joint. Don't forget to support your lower a-arm w/ your jacks!!


    I think that's about it...this job shouldn't take you more than an hour per axle to do. It took me about 7 hours to figure out the best way to remove it... Now that I did one side, the other side will be easy.
    96 3.2L Green Trooper
    2001 BMW Z3 Coupe
    2005 Mini Cooper S
    RIP 1973 BMW 2002tii

  2. #2
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    Excellent post, thanks! Am looking forward to the "illustrated" version
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  3. #3
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    Thanks. That's one job I know I will have to do at some point as my CV boots are showing some signs of age. Did you use the kit from Independent 4x? I've heard it makes the job less painful than standard boots.
    Bill Green

    "Follow your bliss" ~ Joseph Campbell, mythologist

  4. #4
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    How do those work, Bill? I've replaced boots and found it not to be too tough, but it there was a way to do it without taking the tulip joint apart, that would be cool. It's not a split boot or something?
    Last edited by DaveInDenver; 06-12-2007 at 04:42 PM. Reason: Fixed mistake

  5. #5
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    If you had Ind4x4's kit, you could remove the front hub and install both boots without removing the axle.

    Rather than don't that lengthy step up above, all you would have to do is:
    1. Remove all braking component. Hang the caliper so it doesn't put stress on your brake line.
    2. Separate the lower ball joint from the receiver, or remove the 4 bolts holding it in place against the lower A-arm.
    3. Separate the upper ball join from the upper control arm.
    4. Separate the steering linkage, outer tie rod.
    5. Pull out your front wheel hub.

    Now if you don't have a way to expand your cv boot to fit over the outer cv joint, you won't be able to install them. With the kit like Independence4x4, you can easily install both inner and outer cv boot w/o removing the axle. I figure this process is more like 40mins per axle. Whereas it was taking me 2-3 hours to do an axle by removing it from the inner cv joint.
    96 3.2L Green Trooper
    2001 BMW Z3 Coupe
    2005 Mini Cooper S
    RIP 1973 BMW 2002tii

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DaveInDenver
    How do those work, Bill? I've replaced boots and found it not to be too tough, but it there was a way to do it without taking the outer joint apart, that would be cool. It's not a split boot or something?
    The plastic cone that the kit comes with enlarges the cv boot to fit over the cv joint. So it's as simple as sliding it over the joint.
    96 3.2L Green Trooper
    2001 BMW Z3 Coupe
    2005 Mini Cooper S
    RIP 1973 BMW 2002tii

  7. #7
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    Oh, and for the record, replacing cv boots is a PITA.
    96 3.2L Green Trooper
    2001 BMW Z3 Coupe
    2005 Mini Cooper S
    RIP 1973 BMW 2002tii

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZooJunkie
    Oh, and for the record, replacing cv boots is a PITA.

    *laughs* Right on brother. Did that too many times on my eclipse o.0
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