Arizona to Oregon on trails

gt6star

Observer
So, we're home now finaly rested and relaxed after our epic journey through 3.5 states (we dipped into Kali for a few minutes) To get started telling our story I'll start with the numbers...
Vehicle used: 2009 Jeep JK Unlimited X on BFG all Terrain KO's
Ramsey winch/hi-lift jack/terraflex budget boost/garmin gps/maps/and enough food/water clothing/camping gear to last about a month.
Gas used:205.05 gallons at a cost of $806.08
we drove a total of 3883.46 miles from my driveway to Portland back to my driveway
We got and average of 18.93 MPG
Average gas cost was $3.93 per gallon
Those are the quantifiable facts, here's the story...........
 

gt6star

Observer
Planning

IMG_4244.JPGWe started planning this trip back in March. It started out as a need to go to Oregon for my girlfriends cousins highschool graduation. In the initial discussion I piped up and said "hey, wouldnt it be neat if tried to do most or all of our trip on dirt." Can it be done? Can you still cross the wesern United states on dirt or have we finally strip malled and interstated our way into one indestinquishable gas station after another? In her usualy enthusiastic dimeaner she replied "hell Yes! lets do it!".
Well it's settled then, we're on our way to a life changing adventure. We got out the maps, poured over google earth, posted on Expedition Portal, planned studied and planned some more. Then with enough money saved up (we hoped) and our leave from work approved we set out....
 

gt6star

Observer
Day One May 16th 2011: We started in the evening after Nola (my girlfriend) got off work. Our plan was simply to get out of town the first night and camp about 50 miles north of Tucson to check our gear and if we forgot anything we were still close enough to go home and get it. We camped just east of Red Rock Arizona, the weather was perfect and everything worked fine, especialy our new air matress. Incedentally tis was one of only 2 nights on the entire trip we actually used our tent.... more on tha later.

The campsite was the usual southern Arizona desert camp, a few cows and some jack rabbits for company and the occasional coyote howl. We slept like babies
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Two May 17th 2011

IMG_4096.JPGIMG_4097.JPGIMG_4095.JPGWe awoke to perfect Arizona weather, nice cool crisp air:ylsmoke: We had a quick breakfast of granola bars and tea. We packed our campsite and began to head north on dirt roads. We had to cheat a little cuttign through Phoenix and up I-17 untill we hit the road to Crown King. We turned off the highway and hit the trail. This was also a good chance to test our airing down skills and ultimately or airing up equipment. After airing down the usualy bone jaring ride on the jeep turned into a nice quiet drive in the country. The front road up to Crown King is a winding hairpinned dirt road passing through a few (very) small towns on its way up the mountain. Crown King is a sight to behold, right out of the 19th century this old mining camp is pretty well left alone because of the effort required to get up to it. The fresh alpine air felt good after passing through Pheonix and eating dust all day. We stopped briefly to grab a water out of the cooler and toss a few things into our Trasharoo (this thing was invaluable during our trip, and started more than a few conversations at gas stations). Heading our of Crown King down the back way is much more challenging and the going was slow. 3 hours later we popped out in Kirkland. We thought it would be a good time to air back up, one tire, two tires, than bang our little air compressor gave up swollowing a reed valve (MV-50 air compressor) We limped on into Skull Valley and found a small '40s era gas station being restored. We pulled in and I met the owner, a guy named Butch, who in his late 60s was restoring this place on his own. Luckily he had an air compressor and got us fixed up. He was one of those guys you wish you had all day to sit and listen too, he had the look of an ex marine and age wasnt going to stop him from doing anything. Thanks Butch for the air! We pressed on to Bagdad Arizona and made camp near an active mining claim. This was the second and last time we used our tent. We fixed a big dinner of Turkey burgers and baked beans (baked beans will be the source of many late night giggles and "dutch oven" attacks in the sleeping bags throughout the trip. We relaxed for a few hours and even took a shower using our water jug on top of the jeep. Again we slept like babies, gassy ones anyway.......
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Three May 18th

This time we awoke to not so perfect Arizona weather, it was windy and rainy:Wow1:. After a little bit of extra "denial" sleep we finaly decided to get up and face the weather, we got dressed and quickly broke camp. Once finaly in the jeep we set out towards Kingman Arizona. Kingman was just a quick gas stop and lunch for we had a mission that day. Las Vegas was our goal or as I called it "our resuply depot that happens to have a casino or two" We crossed the new bridge over the Hoover Dam, and incredible walk if you ever pass by that way its worth a stop. After oohing and aahing at the new views of the dam the bridge provides we headed into Vegas, here again we cheat a little staying one glorious night in Sams Town Hotel Casino. We got dressed in our finest duds and hit the strip that night. We got back to the hotel late and hit the sack. We awoke early and checked out. As we headed out of town we stopped at Pep Boys to pick up a new air compressor. We headed north........IMG_4145.JPG
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Four May 19th

We left Vegas, happy and a little bloated on M&Ms, (we hit the M&M store on the strip).
I have to give credit to Expedition portal here as they helped with this leg of the trip. We had with us a printout of the 3 towns called Lee overland route. We followed it from Amargosa Valley. Amargosa Valley was also our gas stop, and was the first time in my life I had ever seen a gas station/brothel with attached brothel museum. I was intregued, whats in a brothel museum? After short consideration we decided the trail was our mission and we needed to focus on that. We turned west into the desert....
After a few miles the smooth graded gravel road turns into a carnical ride of woopdydoos for miles and miles, you could get sea sick on this trail, it was great fun! While riding the waves we passed what looked like a recently dead horse, complete with shoes and a bridal/bit and what apeared to be a bullet hole in it's head. We figured some poor cowboy had to put his trusty friend down. IMG_4192.JPGIMG_4195.JPG We pressed on briefly crossing into Californias Death Valley National Park for a few minutes, no movie stars were seen. While heading back east we watched a couple of F-16's on low level zooming across the desert. They did in 30 seconds what it would take us 4 hours to do... We popped out of the desert on I-95 and headed north to Beaty NV. We got a few gallons of gas and started our next downloaded overland route "Rhyolite to Tonepah" This leg was truly magical for me, I love ghost towns and open desert, and this route had plenty of both.:wings: We stopped in Rhyolite a well preserved mining town with some sizable buildings still standing. After that we crossed a low mountain pass and into a massive flat valley, after about 2 hours of crossing the valley we arived at the site of Bonnie Claire ghost town. A small house and some mining equipment lie strewn about everywhere, nothing rots away in the desert. After a little poking around we mounted up and headed north east towards Big Blossom mine and Gold Point. After hours of following wrong trails, back tracking, almost smashing our front diff on a rock hidden in some weeds and a lot of skilled navigation on my part:coffee: we finaly found Gold Point. There looked to be some overlander types camped out in Gold Point and it would have been great to stop and hang out, but we were burning daylight and had a ways to go before camp. We moved still northwest towards Lida. where we turned up into a massive mountain pass stopping for dinner at the top, Hot Dogs and yes, more beans:Wow1:. After the pass we crossed another massive wide valley and entered Silver Peak, nothing to see here folks, just a small (still working) mining town and you'd think they way they looked at my jeep that the circus had come to town. We passed right on through and headed to Tonepah. Ariving in Tonepah well after dark, 2130ish we got gas and talked for a few minutes with the girl behind the counter at the gas station, everyone in Tonepah seemed freindly and it was actualy a cool looking town with a classic main street feel. Nola and I looked at eachother and niether one of us was tired, maybe we were running on the excitment of what we were discovering. We pressed on through the night, heading still north west towards Winnemocca. This was by far the longest stretch of unbroken dirt we drove on so far, over 200 miles of it! The road was so straight I could have set the cruise control and riden on the roof of the jeep for hours. At about 0300 I had had a long enough day behind the wheel, we pulled off and unloaded the jeep and inflated out air matress in the back of it. It was perfect, easier than the tent and was better shelter, again we slept like babies, untill about 0730 when we were awakened by a nest of vultures in the tree we parked under. We watched in awe as 4 baby vultures squawked for food from mom who was out somewhere scavenging. And folks yes, even baby vultures are cute in their own way....
 

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Explore Oregon

New member
I was intregued, whats in a brothel museum? After short consideration we decided the trail was our mission and we needed to focus on that. We turned west into the desert....

Nooooo… I will be forever haunted by the question, what could be in a brothel museum? :D

I’m really enjoying the trip report btw. I’ll be sure to check back tomorrow.
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
Hmm I am sure the decision not to go in the brothel museum was entirely yours.:sombrero: Eagerly waiting for the next installment.
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Five May 20th

IMG_4243.jpgIMG_4241.JPGIMG_4239.JPGIMG_4244.JPG....."I was totin my pack along the dusty Winnemucca road".... or so the Jonny Cash masterpiece goes....I thought to myself as I actually drove along the dusty Winnemucca road:bike_rider: With Mr. Cash still belting out his hits on our Ipod we arrived in Winnemucca, a sleepy farm town/truck/train depot along I-80. We pulled into a gas station after burning what we thought was going to be the most fuel on the longest stretch we had thus far traveled between stops. As we were gassing up, a guy who was topping off his cowboy Cadillac across from me proudly proclaimed that my Jeep is what they are supposed to look like, he was refering to the 2 states worth of mud and dirt covering everything. I must have paid an extra $40 in gas just to haul 400 pounds of Arizona this far north into Nevada. Again I was asked about the trasharoo, I explained what it was for, he looked intreagued, than looked at his pickup truck, no need for a trasharoo there...

I called my dad before we left town to let him know we were ok and we were having a blast, I also gave him a rough estimate of the direction we would be traveling and where we hoped to end up that night.
We pressed on north out of town on Jungo road heading to the ghost town of Jungo, when we arived at the dot on the map that said "Jungo" we found no town, what we did find was a huge dry lake bed called Jungo Flat, we took this opportunity to let the massive horsepower "snort" of our Jeep JK's 3.8 liter minivan engine run free! Across the lake bed we went setting land speed records and doing wide sweeping turns, it was thrilling. We stopped to take a few pictures and pop off a few rounds from my Sprigfield XD-9 and Nolas 357 magnum. Dry lakebeds are perfect ranging and testing grounds for different types of ammo because you can see exactly where and how far bullets travel. That was fun! On the edge of the lakebed we discovered an abandoned 50's era Buick, this beast had more steel in the front fender than my whole jeep had in its body, it was massive covered with rust yet the chrome still gleamed in the sun. America could build some cars back then! After our diversion on the lakebed we started north towards the biggest mountains we had seen so far on our trip, following Bottle Creek Road we moved quickly, this was a nice smooth graded dirt road. I've got to add here that this (to me) seemed to mark our entering into the north country, the air fealt different, there was green grass, the cows were fatter, and there were flowing streams everywhere. We turned onto Nevada highway 140, another beautifully graded dirt road (Nevada takes care of their trails nicely) and headed towards Denio Junction near the Oregon Border. We turned left and continued to follow 140 across another picturesque mountain valley, while in the valley we stopped for lunch, more hot dogs and even more beans hehehe!:costumed-smiley-007 After lunch we followed our trusty GPS onto what looked like a gently sloping mountain pass. Dear reader we climbed 5 thousand feet in about 5 miles in 4 low crawling the entire way, we crossed snow patches that were more like glaciers! We'd reach the crest of one ridge only to see more climbing and more crawling, 2 hours later we pointed the nose down the other side of the mountain pass, riding the brakes in 4 low down the hill into yet another awesome mountain valley, this time Nola proclaimed we can see Oregon! We drove on up the trail passing nicely laid out camp sites and Kiosks that detailed local wild life and posted vague park service maps of the area. (does anyone use these? most of the ones in Arizona are riddled with bullet holes) We crossed into Oregon on Coleman Canyon road pushing north towards Adel. Oregon is much wetter than I'm used too, what they call streams here are raging rivers in AZ. I'm used to being able to jump across a stream, you could sail a destroyer up these creeks! Needless to say being a stranger in a strange land (Im a desert rat mind you) we stuck to the pavement. We had hoped to get gas in Adel but there wasnt a single open gas station in town, so we pressed our luck, and our range, and headed towards Paisley, we actually started thinking about what we would do if we ran out of gas here, the low level light was on and we had 95 miles to go before the next gps located gas station,we werent going to make that. Thankfully Paisley did have a gas station. I must state here that I think Oregons full service gas station law is silly! The attendant was nice and I stood next to the pump awkwardly as this guy pumped my gas for me, essentialy doing my work. Noone has yet been able to explain this law to me, does Oregon not trust its citizens to pump their own gas? This was not the last Oregon law I would have trouble with.....
After we got gas we decided to try some trails, after all thats what we were here for, one forest road after another petered out into a locked gate or an impassable river. We were running out of daylight and we had to be in Portland that night.

We hit the highway up 97 thru Bend then Madras, at Madras we turned onto 26 and headed towards Mt Hood and Portland, it was dissapointing becasue by now it was dark and raining hard as we passed Mt Hood, we never got to see its magestic peak. While on the highway, a friend I went to highschool with back in New Mexico who was following our trip on facebook offered us her spare bedroom in Portland! That was great becasue we realy had no clue where we were going to sleep that night. We finaly made it to her apartment deep in the heart of downtown Portlandia. We parked the Jeep on the street in front of her building, grabbed a few bags of clothes and our air matress and followed Rose up to her place, it was 0130. A little small talk and a beer or two later and Nola and I were ready for some sleep! We were dead to the world once we hit the matress. I did get a discusted giggle out of hNola right before we drifted off to sleep, the lunch beans strike again! haha!:chef: We slept like babies............
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Six May 21st The end of the World?

We slept till 0900 that morning, we needed the sleep, I had essentually been driving for 48 hours with nothing more than a 3 hour nap. I stumbled across the hall into my first shower since Vegas, it was great! Oregon water is so much better that Arizona water! After a little more smalltalk with Rose we headed out to do the thing we actually made this trip for, Go to Nolas cousins highschool graduation party. I should say here that In the almost 2 years Nola and I have been together I had not yet met her father, today was the day I was going to do that. We met her family at her Aunts house and I was immediatly made to feal like family. Her father (Cliff) is a retired 30 year Coast Guard vet who currently spends his time playing in his band at wineries and festivals. We hit it off instantly after figuring out that we had the same sense of humor, the fact that I'm in the Airforce and have been for 18 years so we sort of speak the same language, didnt hurt either. We spent the day at the party, me making small talk with her family and friends and even drifting off to sleep on her cousins couch for a while, I was still exhausted from the drive. That night we went back to Roses place and hung out for a while before crashing on the air matress again. Thanks Rose for putting us up! I ate no beans that day so all was quiet on the southern front. We slept like babies...........IMG_4260.jpg
 

gt6star

Observer
Day Seven May 22

IMG_4281.jpgIMG_4280.JPGIMG_4283.jpgView attachment 62352View attachment 62353View attachment 62354We started our day with breakfast at Nolas Aunts house, a massive home cooked meal that fealt more like an event than a meal! :chef: We siad our good buys and hit the trail once more, Nolas family was heading down to Medford where they live and we were heading to the coast to continue our adventure, we would meet up with her folks again in a few days.
We left Portland about mid day and headed west Towards Tillamook We followed highway 6 into the mountains passing thru towns like Gales Creek and Balm Grove, I was particularly fond of Idiotville, and may consider going back and running for mayor someday. It was here that we decided to try our luck at some trails. We turned off at Lees camp and hit the dirt, not 5 minutes into the forest we were stopped by a sherrifs deputy who asked us where our front liscence plate was. I explained in Arizona we dont have them, he quickly and tersly replied that all states has them. I wasnt getting anywhere with Deputy Dickhead, so I simply smiled and bit my tongue as he shook us down for 5 minutes about some sticker were supposed to have to go off road in Oregon and our liscense plate, he even asked what we were doing up in Oregon. You should have seen the look of bitterness on his face when we told him that story. I guess the law in Oregon just cant stand to see people doing what they enjoy. After our run in with the law we contunued driving up the trails and enjoying the view. After going up one particularly steep trail we were dissapointed to see a sign that said, motorcycles and ATV's only beyond this point! ARGHHHH! we had to turn back, another hour of daylight burned. We returned to the main road and continued our drive to the sea. We passed thru Tillamook and hit the coast, for the first time on our trip we saw the Pacific Ocian! We drove down the coast road to a place called Sand Beach where we set up camp. This was the first time on our trip that we had to pay to camp at a campground:mad: Camping next to us was a scruffy looking guy with what looked like a hobo campsite, he had everything, and old trailer with a frame and tarps tied over it to make a shelter with a cot inside, he had a 20 lb propane tank with 3 hosesm coming off of it for light, cooking and a heater. He was heating up a can of stu in a pot suspended over a campfire with a tripod. He also had a realy cool 1985 Honda Pilot. He was a man on a mission, to play on the huge sand dunes that go on for miles near the campsite. We put up our sunshade/old tarp and cleared out the back of the jeep to put it into bedroom mode. We made dinner, raman and spam, Nola refused to fix me some beans tonight!:snorkel: It was getting cold quick and beginning to rain when we crawed into the back of the jeep and went to sleep. We slept like babies......
 

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