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Thread: Experience With Preparing ISUZU NPS Camper: Body

  1. #1

    Default Experience With Preparing ISUZU NPS Camper: Body

    This is just a simple list of issues which have cropped up in this chassis for any serious off road work. I have discussed suspension in another thread and I will add to this thread as issues come up but so far:

    1: super single conversions, several groups do a single 19.5 rim

    2: wading depth is pretty poor at 300mm.
    DPD exhaust should not be submerged
    wiring insertion points in gearbox etc
    fuse box needs to be relocated
    brakes take a long long LONG time to start working again after submersion

    3: Standard fuel tank is way too low

    4: Need a protective screen to cover gap between inter-cooler and radiator

    5: Dust sealing is atrocious

    6: front steps need to be modified higher

    7: transfer case is lower than chassis rail and really needs a "bash plate" to protect it.

    8: rear shock absorbers are in front of the axle and get annihilated by stones, need a protective shield of some sort.

    9: front sway bar is way too low, needs to be moved or removed altogether (potentially dangerous.....)

    10: need to fit screens between engine bay and wheel wells, these are available commercially as are wheel arch flares etc.

    More to come......

  2. #2
    haven is offline Expedition Portal Moderator Expedition Leader
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    8,552
    For readers in North America, the NPS series is the 4x4 version of Isuzu's medium cab forward truck. In NA, Isuzu only imports the NPR rear wheel drive model.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cooya Beach FNQ
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    What is the year model of your unit.
    Mine is a 2002 & I have modified the air cleaner by replacing it with a donaldson with a snorkel & mounting it on the original air cleaner mounting bracket but turned upside down.
    I have extended the breathers on the diff, gbox, fuel tank etc & have been though water a number of over 1300mm during the last wet season. I have a trayback, so I don't have a floating issue that the units that have bus bodies on have.
    Enjoy Life

  4. #4
    Hi 1Engine, mine is a 2009 Euro IV

    You are absolutely correct in both points. I was going to try and relocate the standard system but there is a air mass or flo sensor in just before the turbo which makes it tricky. Where did you get the "plumbing" for the Donaldson from, I have been searching for someone who deals in this sort of stuff in Oz?

    The updated list is as follows:

    1: super single conversions, several groups do a single 19.5 rim

    2: wading depth is pretty poor at 300mm (ISUZUs recommended maximum).

    • DPD exhaust should not be submerged
    • wiring insertion points in gearbox etc
    • fuse box needs to be relocated
    • brakes take a long long LONG time to start working again after submersion


    3: Standard fuel tank is way too low

    4: Need a protective screen to cover gap between inter-cooler and radiator (getting grass etc in here will kill your $8000 turbo!)

    5: Dust sealing is atrocious

    6: front steps need to be modified higher

    7: transfer case is lower than chassis rail and really needs a "bash plate" to protect it.

    8: rear shock absorbers are in front of the axle and get annihilated by stones, need a protective shield of some sort.

    9: front sway bar is way too low, needs to be moved or removed altogether (potentially dangerous.....)

    10: need to fit screens between engine bay and wheel wells, these are available commercially as are wheel arch flares etc.

    11: fit extended breathers to 4 (yes four) points:
    • front diff, careful to avoid connector hitting sump
    • rear diff
    • gearbox
    • transfer case (this is really hard to find, go to a dealers and have a look at a bare chassis to see it.


    12: Air filter absolutely needs replacing!! It is a paper element and is fitted straight from the standard road going N series , it even has water drain at the bottom. It is a VERY real risk for water entry as it is so low.
    Last edited by IcedVolvo; 06-04-2011 at 07:50 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cooya Beach FNQ
    Posts
    79
    I just used 100mm Stainless Exhaust tube.
    It was a bit over $100 / m
    It is easy to work with, just when you cut, do it slowly so it does not blue
    Enjoy Life

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
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    Where did you get the "plumbing" for the Donaldson from, I have been searching for someone who deals in this sort stuff.

    Hi Try Kevin at Tranzmile Truck and Trailer they do all Donaldson parts 07-33444156 he is very heplful.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by PKDreamers View Post
    Where did you get the "plumbing" for the Donaldson from, I have been searching for someone who deals in this sort stuff.

    Hi Try Kevin at Tranzmile Truck and Trailer they do all Donaldson parts 07-33444156 he is very heplful.
    Thanks PK, I will look them up. Perhaps we should have a "sticky" thread with like a Yellow Pages of people who do certain types of work on trucks.; I have had the devil of a time finding anyone to do air intake plumbing.

  8. #8
    Where did you get the "plumbing" for the Donaldson from, I have been searching for someone who deals in this sort of stuff in Oz?
    Hi Jon.

    Most truck shops carry it. I only deal with our 2 local ones here on the Sunny Coast but both these shops sell to the public and have a wide range of both rubber and high grade silicone bends and elbows, reducers, joiners, bellows, etc (and proper turbo hose clamps to hold it all together) and of course Donaldson and my preference >> Fleetgaurd aircleaners. Be careful....A lot of the turbo hose bits you buy at Supercheap Auto or on the net is rubbish. Reputable truck shops will only sell quality stuff. Performance car shops also carry this gear too.

    BTW ...your model NPS has a Donaldson aircleaner as standard fitment.

    I have never done an aircleaner relocation on your model but have done plenty of 649 FG's . Easy enough on those as long as you think about it carefully and cut the aircleaner/turbo pipe in the right spot so that you can introduce some stainless pipe (of a common size so that you can buy the rubber/silicone bends and the stainless easily) into the airtract.

    Only ever use stainless in the airtract of a turbo engine and always go for a plastic aircleaner too. Had a bad experience with a rusty flake completely destroying the vanes of the turbo in my old work truck once. It was a OEM setup too.

    Jon. Email me if you need a phone number.

    John.
    Last edited by whatcharterboat; 06-06-2011 at 08:23 AM.
    Mark16

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wyoming USA
    Posts
    40
    4: Need a protective screen to cover gap between inter-cooler and radiator (getting grass etc in here will kill your $8000 turbo!)
    hi there IcedVolvo! I'm just confused what do you call this protective screen to cover the gap between the inter-cooler and rad? and where can we find one? thanks!

  10. #10
    Hi, sorry for the delay in replying.

    At the front of the engine there are two radiator like devices. The front one is the intercooler for the turbo and the rear one is the actual radiator. There is a small gap between them ~2cm the two radiators. If you get a plastic bag or something between them then you can do damage to both the turbo and the engine which is NOT covered by warranty. Older versions had a screen between the radiators to stop this but the new versions do not so you have to make your own screen.

    post if you have trouble

    iced

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