The center mounted winch thread....

[Metcalf]

Any concern with the frames not being straight? I doubt there are many frames out there that are straight, so you'd have your rope rubbing on the inside of the frame rail. You'd need to add reinforcement in those areas for sure. I can't see using synthetic in this application for this reason, unless you could reinforce the corners with very smooth aluminum.

One other challenge would be fishing the line through the frame to begin with.

It all depends on the system. The ibex frame was fairly straight, or at least straight enough to make it a non-issue. I have seen both synthetic line and steel cable used.

I envision using something like a continuous 1.5", .120 wall DOM tube front to back to act as a guide for the line. The bend radius would be large enough that the wear would be very minimal I think.

The line stays in the tube once its rigged. It doesn't get removed to winch to the rear. To winch to the rear you always run a double line, with the end fixed at the front of the car. You could fish the line through the frame/tube with some wire easy enough to build the system....

I would still love to do this, but I am having a lot of issues trying to find a route for the line rear to front on my truck. There just doesn't seem to be an elegant simple answer.....

[JamesDowning]

If you're using a bent tube, you're right, not a problem to fish it through. I could picture the fishing wire getting caught on every little bend inside frame rails though.

As for a simple route, can you not just run the tube along the bottom of one of your frame rails? Weld the tube directly to the bottom of the frame... shouldn't be much interfering with that area and it will be strong enough to drag over some rocks if needed. Or were you hoping to run it higher?

[Metcalf]

I would like to get it above the bottom of the frame. My truck is HEAVY for sure. I could see crushing it fairly easy.

Running it under the frame works well till you get to the front spring hanger on my truck.

I need to go check out directly on TOP of the frame at lunch though! I hadn't checked that path yet.

Thanks for the ideas.....

[Metcalf]

I just checked a few things at lunch....

-Under the frame is pretty much a bust. It works ok until you get to the shackles of the front springs on my truck.

-Top of the frame is a bust unless you installed a body lift.

-Inside the c-channel of the frame along the drivers side rail looks to be the best bet so far. The fuel tank would have to be removed to install the tube line guide, but there is plenty of room inside the frame rail I think. The tub can pass through the transmission crossmember area if the tube is on the bottom of the c-channel. The upper part of the spring shackle hanger gets in the way going towards the front. The tube would have to be run inboard slightly to get around that with a small 4" jog or so. Getting the tube past the engine crossmember along with my crossover steering is next. I think its possible but not nearly as easy as I would hope.

I'm going to keep looking at it....

I did have a thought that the guide tube could be broken up into sections by using a v-band clamp system. This would allow the tube to be installed in multiple parts yet still provide for a smooth enough ID for the line. This would greatly help the install since multiple plane bends could be done in different parts.

On a related note. I wonder if it would be worth just building the tube in sections and then welding it together, kinda like a custom header? I like the idea of cleanly bent tube better......

[Metcalf]

Some research threads....



http://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wa...ber-winch.html

http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...pto-winch.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/recovery/1...pe-middle.html

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31258

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=598979

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Foru...=25791&start=0

http://www.offroadexpress.co.nz/Foru...p?f=18&t=11924

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=972281

[Tennmogger]

I built a center mounted winch into my 1957 Unimog flatbed. Perhaps some info would be of use to anyone wanting to do the same thing. The winch pulls double line rear or double/single line front. Either end is usable without moving cables or the winch. The bed was built with the winch system in mind. Cable route is direct run from rear turnaround sheave to the front. The front fairlead is two fairleads, one behind the other to allow pulling 90 deg to the side. Rear has 3 guide sheaves, ditto, or to allow both front and rear to be spooled at the same time (like stabilization while driving on a severe sideslope, or driving along the cable when anchored on both ends.

The pictures span 10 years so the paint changes, as does the dirt. The winch works great and has been used many times (Pierce 12,500 lb 24volt electric). The drum flat-spools itself by having the cable arrive at 90 degrees to centerline of the drum from a distant guide point.

The series of pictures are at Rocky Mountain Moggers (check out the trips section, too)

http://www.rockymountainmoggers.com/bobmoglite.html

A good reason to mount a winch at the rear of the vehicle is weight distribution (even if the winch is not readily usable from the rear).

Pictures show a stuck from which the winch easily extracted the truck, and a shot on Tipover Challenge in Moab.

stuck front treffen.JPGTipOverChallengejpg.JPG
Bob

[Metcalf]

Very cool! Thank you for sharing your experience with the idea!

[Heavy44TRT]

I have been interested in this idea for years. From what I have seen with your build, if anyone can do it, you can do it. Being able to pull front or rear is a great benefit. I would like to have a PTO winch to do this. Then heat build-up with the electric motor is not an issue. Just pulling out someone stuck in a ditch in the snow an electric is fine. But like the military, if you have to get somewhere you may have to continuously winch a long way. I am looking forward to your engineering on this. Keep up the good work with your build. Your truck is one of my favorite builds. All you need is this winch setup and lockers and it will be the perfect truck(simple and reliable). This is my first post, so I hope it works.

[Metcalf]

Thank you! I'm trying to figure this stuff out. I think I have most of the parts figured out, but there are still some holes. I am still recovering from my tire/wheel purchase so the winch will be a little bit off

Welcome to the board too!

Currently I am researching winch options. In a discussion with some of my friends it was brought up that I pretty much HAVE to have a winch capable of long distance 'power-out' without running into problems with synthetic line ( too much heat ). This excludes a lot of your common planetary winches with braking systems in the drum.

[mogwildRW1]

The winch on my Unimog is referred to as a "Mid-Mount, though it is more at the rear than the Middle.

The cable comes out the front, but using a snatch block, you can leave the front hooked into the front pintel in the bumper, and put a loop out the back, then, using a snatch block, pull rearwards.

If this is for your Unimog, the two winch's I'd be looking for would be a Werner or a Rotzler.


Cable Path.jpgCable Bracket.jpgDruckrolle.jpgRoller Springs.jpgBack In Black (2) (Medium).JPGDoor Winch Info.jpgPICT4687.jpgDSCN4263.jpgFair Leed.jpg