Refreshing the TJ - Build Thread
- Thread starter GP'd
- Start date
nwoods
Expedition Leader
Well.... he got married.
Hah. Hey guys!
I really haven't had a chance to get into the garage for the past few months and just returned from a 3 week trip to Italy last night.
Updates :
Spin Tech Muffler/Exhaust - Installed
Savvy Gas Tank Skid - Installed
Savvy LED Taillights - Installed
I may have mentioned this in here before, but I had been dealing with transmission overheating for quite a long time. Being fed up with it I re-routed my entire system to include a Filter and now have dual coolers mounted in the front (run in parallel). I can now run up grades with AC on and never see over 180º on the transmission. Most of the time the trans runs at 100-110 (outflow, not what is inside of transmission). This may be on the side of "too cool" and in retrospect I should've done a single fanned cooler, but the system is solid, used russell fittings and now has an inline filter. Without transmission heat issues, I now want a small utility trailer!
Sitting in the garage : Dana 30 - Synergy Knuckle Gussets, Inner Axle Sleeves, Chromoly Shafts, enough materials to make the storage system. PSC Power steering pump, will likely be getting a new steering gear shortly.
Maintenance : FOA shocks need a major rebuild. I'm debating replacing them as they have leaked nitrogen and oil in far too short of a lifespan for me. This has been going on for a while. I'd hate to buy new shocks and NOT have them threaded (I am set up for coilovers after all) but that may be a bit longer down the road.
Engine keeps throwing misfires at high rpms (engine braking down hills), downshifts to get up grades. Still trying to create a scenario where I can replicate it and start problem solving.
Hoping to keep you guys fed on pictures and information. Trying to find more time to play in the garage.
I really haven't had a chance to get into the garage for the past few months and just returned from a 3 week trip to Italy last night.
Updates :
Spin Tech Muffler/Exhaust - Installed
Savvy Gas Tank Skid - Installed
Savvy LED Taillights - Installed
I may have mentioned this in here before, but I had been dealing with transmission overheating for quite a long time. Being fed up with it I re-routed my entire system to include a Filter and now have dual coolers mounted in the front (run in parallel). I can now run up grades with AC on and never see over 180º on the transmission. Most of the time the trans runs at 100-110 (outflow, not what is inside of transmission). This may be on the side of "too cool" and in retrospect I should've done a single fanned cooler, but the system is solid, used russell fittings and now has an inline filter. Without transmission heat issues, I now want a small utility trailer!
Sitting in the garage : Dana 30 - Synergy Knuckle Gussets, Inner Axle Sleeves, Chromoly Shafts, enough materials to make the storage system. PSC Power steering pump, will likely be getting a new steering gear shortly.
Maintenance : FOA shocks need a major rebuild. I'm debating replacing them as they have leaked nitrogen and oil in far too short of a lifespan for me. This has been going on for a while. I'd hate to buy new shocks and NOT have them threaded (I am set up for coilovers after all) but that may be a bit longer down the road.
Engine keeps throwing misfires at high rpms (engine braking down hills), downshifts to get up grades. Still trying to create a scenario where I can replicate it and start problem solving.
Hoping to keep you guys fed on pictures and information. Trying to find more time to play in the garage.
heehawhardy
Adventurering
Italy??? Would love to see some pics if ya snapped any.
Cool to see you updating the thread :smiley_drive:
Cool to see you updating the thread :smiley_drive:
Ok some photos. Excuse the quality, this is all I had on my phone during some of the projects...
Pile of parts to be installed
The oil filter/sensor block with Russell Fittings. Both Temperature and Sensor get picked up here on the Hot Out.
Russell Y fittings to properly run Parallel coolers.
My latest order of wire for the 1800 and Jeep Wiring Projects :
A side stove project I have been working on for the AT Slide :
The 'new' roof rack. Though I really enjoy not having the Garmin rack on top of the Jeep for noise and MPG reasons, it does suck not being able to carry things. Considering It was generally used for things like kayaks and lighter items, I went to the junkyard and pulled some cargo rack rails off of a Ford cargo van for $5 and applied some spray paint. I used giant fender washers underneath to secure it through the fiberglass. When I go back and sound deaden the fiberglass I'll probably put aluminum strips in to get a better surface area. For now, it with any standard crossbar system found in a junkyard will fit my roof transportation needs.
Pile of parts to be installed
The oil filter/sensor block with Russell Fittings. Both Temperature and Sensor get picked up here on the Hot Out.
Russell Y fittings to properly run Parallel coolers.
My latest order of wire for the 1800 and Jeep Wiring Projects :
A side stove project I have been working on for the AT Slide :
The 'new' roof rack. Though I really enjoy not having the Garmin rack on top of the Jeep for noise and MPG reasons, it does suck not being able to carry things. Considering It was generally used for things like kayaks and lighter items, I went to the junkyard and pulled some cargo rack rails off of a Ford cargo van for $5 and applied some spray paint. I used giant fender washers underneath to secure it through the fiberglass. When I go back and sound deaden the fiberglass I'll probably put aluminum strips in to get a better surface area. For now, it with any standard crossbar system found in a junkyard will fit my roof transportation needs.
This thread is about to get a whole lot more fun...
Some updates after tinkering and checking everything last weekend in effort to get rid of the float I've been getting.
Currie HD Steering Tie Rods - Shot
Factory Steering Gear Sector Shaft Bushing - Shot, though to its credit it managed to survive 160,000 miles of good use. It still isn't leaking but there is just too much play in the bushing for me not to address it now.
FOA Shocks - Leaking Oil, Nitrogen and their dignity.
So... That leaves me with the next major project list :
Steering System Upgrade - PSC Big Bore Pump, Reservoir and Cooler.
Prototype Steering Set Up - More Details to Follow. This will be a factory steering type replacement but with major upgrades even over my current Currie set up.
Shocks Being Replaced - With what you ask? I'll give you a clue. My rear is already set up for them.
Some updates after tinkering and checking everything last weekend in effort to get rid of the float I've been getting.
Currie HD Steering Tie Rods - Shot
Factory Steering Gear Sector Shaft Bushing - Shot, though to its credit it managed to survive 160,000 miles of good use. It still isn't leaking but there is just too much play in the bushing for me not to address it now.
FOA Shocks - Leaking Oil, Nitrogen and their dignity.
So... That leaves me with the next major project list :
Steering System Upgrade - PSC Big Bore Pump, Reservoir and Cooler.
Prototype Steering Set Up - More Details to Follow. This will be a factory steering type replacement but with major upgrades even over my current Currie set up.
Shocks Being Replaced - With what you ask? I'll give you a clue. My rear is already set up for them.
nwoods
Expedition Leader
No, not a reman. One of the smarter upgrades to the steering pump that I've ever seen is to replace it with a pump from the Durango. It's a direct bolt in replacement, but it's 50% more beefy in every way, and readily available. It looks exactly like the stock Jeep unit, just on Steriods.
I gotcha. Definitely evaluated that option. When looking at those I was going to end up spending ~400-500 for a NEW US manufactured unit so spending the extra 200 on the PSC seemed like a no brainer. I'm pretty sure this PSC is based off of that Durango Box too, just blueprinted, bored again and replaces the bushings with ball bearings.
Would love to see other links for cheaper US Made new boxes if you have them. I haven't installed this one yet.
So in researching a way to run coilover hoops and an engine cage, I came across this awesome FJ Build over on Pirate : http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-land-cruiser/1035090-rock-40-build.html
What I especially like was how he ran the hoop around the steering shaft :
The issue on the TJ without having to hack my AEV fenders even further is also the position of the steering shaft in relation to the frame rail. I believe if I spread the base of the bars (where it attaches to the frame rail) I just might be able to get away without the secondary bends. On the passenger side a hoop should be without issue. I still have tubing, tube couplers (engine cross bar), and enough tabs and trusses left over from the cage build to likely not need anything else.
Coilovers are still a few weeks out so I have some time to finalize the design and get it welded up.
Tonight and tomorrow I'm probably going to start hooking up the steering gear and pump so that I will have that done before I get my new tie rod/drag link set up delivered. Unfortunately after I re-did all of my transmission cooling a few months ago I really didn't leave any room in front of the radiator for a power steering pump cooler. I have a small 4 pass in the garage now, but I'm really out of places to put it so I might just hook up the pump and gear in the factory arrangement until I can get more creative on routing the return lines.
What I especially like was how he ran the hoop around the steering shaft :
The issue on the TJ without having to hack my AEV fenders even further is also the position of the steering shaft in relation to the frame rail. I believe if I spread the base of the bars (where it attaches to the frame rail) I just might be able to get away without the secondary bends. On the passenger side a hoop should be without issue. I still have tubing, tube couplers (engine cross bar), and enough tabs and trusses left over from the cage build to likely not need anything else.
Coilovers are still a few weeks out so I have some time to finalize the design and get it welded up.
Tonight and tomorrow I'm probably going to start hooking up the steering gear and pump so that I will have that done before I get my new tie rod/drag link set up delivered. Unfortunately after I re-did all of my transmission cooling a few months ago I really didn't leave any room in front of the radiator for a power steering pump cooler. I have a small 4 pass in the garage now, but I'm really out of places to put it so I might just hook up the pump and gear in the factory arrangement until I can get more creative on routing the return lines.
Factory PS Pump vs PSC Performance Replacement. Castings were slightly different as was the bottle position. Bolted it in without issue. I called PSC today and they said that their pumps are subject to the new delphi castings. They also said that they only run 2 bolts on their race cars so the 3rd position wasn't an issue.
Steering Gear Comparison
Sometimes you need a bit more leverage. I had soaked the bolts for the past 3 days so it came off slowly but without any crazy pops or dangerous situations.
Here is the pump installed. I ended up putting a shorter bolt in the third position for my own sanity. You can also see that I wrapped all of the new metal hose areas with 1/8" aluminum rod that I had sitting around. Unfortunately with the dual transmission cooler in the front I ran out of great spots to put a cooler. Considering i'm only turning 32-33" tires I opted to run it in the factory routing configuration and decide on a cooler later. I did a horrible job at spacing on the upper one, but the surface area isn't going to hurt the cooling at all for taking up no space.
Pump Top - Bumper Removed
Pump Front - You can see some of the aluminum rod
Filter/Sensor Block - From the transmission cooler re-routing project a month or so ago.
Cooler Spacing - To allow better airflow I put standoffs to mount the coolers further out. This allows about 1.5-1.75" of air between the transmission cooler sand the radiator. Lots of additional ways for air to flow now.
Steering Gear Comparison
Sometimes you need a bit more leverage. I had soaked the bolts for the past 3 days so it came off slowly but without any crazy pops or dangerous situations.
Here is the pump installed. I ended up putting a shorter bolt in the third position for my own sanity. You can also see that I wrapped all of the new metal hose areas with 1/8" aluminum rod that I had sitting around. Unfortunately with the dual transmission cooler in the front I ran out of great spots to put a cooler. Considering i'm only turning 32-33" tires I opted to run it in the factory routing configuration and decide on a cooler later. I did a horrible job at spacing on the upper one, but the surface area isn't going to hurt the cooling at all for taking up no space.
Pump Top - Bumper Removed
Pump Front - You can see some of the aluminum rod
Filter/Sensor Block - From the transmission cooler re-routing project a month or so ago.
Cooler Spacing - To allow better airflow I put standoffs to mount the coolers further out. This allows about 1.5-1.75" of air between the transmission cooler sand the radiator. Lots of additional ways for air to flow now.
