FG84 Workshop Manual

[bptp7270]

Hi John,

Can you say if the parabolics will have more clearance to the front bump stops and will they provide more travel than the factory spirings.

Thanks

Anthony

[whatcharterboat]

Hi Anthony.......it's around 70mm lift over standard with more travel and we're looking at Aeon-style bump stops as part of a complete parabolic conversion too. The shocks will have to be be specially valved to suit. More like 45:55 / comp:rebound rate but thats just an easy internal valve change.

OEM and even conventional aftermarket multi leaf suspension shocks on these trucks need completely different valving. More like 10:90 or even more differential if you can get it, purely because of how short the packs are they are and how much friction is involved, you don't want any resistance at all, they already have too much even with no shocks , that's why they are so jarring to ride in when you hit a pothole or corrugations........then due to the uncontrollable rebound characteristic of a that style of spring, you have to try like hell to slow that action with the most shockabsorber resistance you can get ........... and that's why everything out of the overhead shelf always ends up in your lap when you go over a big whoopee bump.

How did I get on to that Anthony? Could have just said 70mm. My son just fed me a handful of red Snakes. Must be the sugar rush. Whoa. John.

[bptp7270]

Hi Anthony.......it's around 70mm lift over standard with more travel and we're looking at Aeon-style bump stops as part of a complete parabolic conversion too. The shocks will have to be be specially valved to suit. More like 45:55 / comp:rebound rate but thats just an easy internal valve change.

OEM and even conventional aftermarket multi leaf suspension shocks on these trucks need completely different valving. More like 10:90 or even more differential if you can get it, purely because of how short the packs are they are and how much friction is involved, you don't want any resistance at all, they already have too much even with no shocks , that's why they are so jarring to ride in when you hit a pothole or corrugations........then due to the uncontrollable rebound characteristic of a that style of spring, you have to try like hell to slow that action with the most shockabsorber resistance you can get ........... and that's why everything out of the overhead shelf always ends up in your lap when you go over a big whoopee bump.

How did I get on to that Anthony? Could have just said 70mm. My son just fed me a handful of red Snakes. Must be the sugar rush. Whoa. John.

Hi John,

I must send your son a handfull of red snakes(Allens of course) to thank him for the simplest explanation of the suspension issues with these trucks that I have heard and understood so far. Aside from the fact that you are not seated over the spring, I have an old FJ60 that I use for play and it rides like a limo in comparison. I am guessing that by your calculations, my front end will have at least 71mm clearance to the bump stop and the rebound wont try to eject me from the drivers seat.

Anthony

[whatcharterboat]

Aside from the fact that you are not seated over the spring

Oh absolutely......While that isn't the actual problem, it certainly magnifies everything and just gives you an even bigger reason to fix it.

And yeah......I'm sure he'd go for that. We only ever feed them lights and rarely too......Natural Confectionery Co. He'd be running up the walls with heavy strength Allens. Hahahaha.



Well if you have a look at a new cab chassis in a yard , they have around 40mm I guess.........but that lasts about a day once the trucks get go to 6 ton and you end up with 10mm if you are lucky. Crewcabs are always heavy on the front too....especially with a bar and winch, etc.

The parabolics have got these tricky over-riders underneath on the rear which they should land on before slamming into the bumpstops and like I said......we're hoping to go to Aeon bump stops at the front as part of the kit.

[dhackney]

Sorry I didn't see this at the time of the OP.

If you are still looking to open up the dash to swap the radio, photos of the process are here:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos..._22/index2.htm

[bptp7270]

Sorry I didn't see this at the time of the OP.

If you are still looking to open up the dash to swap the radio, photos of the process are here:
http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos..._22/index2.htm

Hi there,

I assume that the cig lighter cover is removed with a small screwdriver or like to reveal a screw that retains the larger radio surround. Once removed I guess that the larger section can then be popped out of place. They are excellent photo's. I was hoping to have a go at it this week.

Thanks, Anthony

[dhackney]

Hi there,

I assume that the cig lighter cover is removed with a small screwdriver or like to reveal a screw that retains the larger radio surround.

yes, that is correct

Once removed I guess that the larger section can then be popped out of place.

Yes. IIRC, it pops off, but be sure to look for screws first. I haven't done this since the last time we shipped the truck two years ago.

I do this every time we ship to strip the cab of all the radios, etc. It only takes a few minutes once you are familiar with the process. Allow 10-15 minutes the first time. Take your time and look around. Between the manual and the photos, you should have no issues.

Thankfully, the entire dash / cab is easy to disassemble for a non-professional mechanic like myself.

If you've got the time, an excellent upgrade of the cab is to remove the seats, headliner and floor mat and line the cab with acoustic mat. It quiets the cab significantly and also reduces the load on the air conditioner a bit.

You can strip the cab in an hour or two.

The only tricky bit is the snap-pin connectors that are used to hold some of the interior trim pieces. You'll need a pry bar about 20cm long for some of those. We took an old flatblade screwdriver and cut a V notch in the end and bent the end to about a 10 degree angle. It made a perfect tool for the job.

If you are mounting additional speakers, you'll have the cab stripped out anyway, so that is a perfect time to line it with acoustic mat.

It's also the perfect time to install & route cables for map lights, 12/24VDC power distribution, radio antennas, GPS antennas, satellite phone antennas, etc.

If you want to go all-out on the sound system, it is possible to do in the FG cab. We mounted high-quality replacement speakers/drivers in the door, smaller diameter speakers/drivers in the upper rear corners of the cab and also put a big subwoofer in our center console. The controller & GPS for the head end and the power amp mounted in the base of the console hidden by a false floor (controller & GPS) and in a side compartment of the console (power amp). The iPod mounted via velcro in the center console. The system was spec'ed and initially installed by a friend of a friend who installed sound systems in ski boats. The system sounds great, but it was overkill for us, since we don't do a lot of high-volume rockin' anymore.

In addition, I needed to re-wire every single thing the kid did. Lesson: You'll be better off doing your own work than letting someone do it who is accustomed to doing street vehicle installs. Do not use cheap connectors. We used marine grade crimp/heat-shrink adhesive connectors for all of our wiring. Expensive, but they stay connected in off-road / overlanding use.

You will find photos of all of those installs, parts, etc. in the buildup photo albums.

Air seats: album 7 & 8
Stripped cab, acoustic mat: album 17 & 18
Console: album 21
Factory dash switches: 21
Pass-through fitting for cab antennas: 21
Cab wiring for radios, etc.: 21
Cab radio install: 22
Stripped cab: 22

Album 17: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos...m_17/index.htm
Album 18: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos...m_18/index.htm
Album 21: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos...m_21/index.htm
Album 22: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/photos...m_22/index.htm

Buildup site is here: http://www.hackneys.com/mitsu/
This build will look pretty amateurish by your OZ standards. Had I known at the time ATW and the other FG builders existed down there, we would have just shipped our chassis to OZ and had them install one of their proven camper boxes on it. As we say up here: Live and learn.

Example of the marine Ancor Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Connectors we used in the build are here:
http://www.wholesalemarine.com/p/ANC-309003/

[whatcharterboat]

Now I can pull my dash apart to replace the radio without breaking anything.

Anthony,

Maybe you've already got this far but can I just add something that may not be so obvious when you are doing it. It's the demister controls below the audio unit............disconnect the cables down at the demister rather than try to get them off the control panel. Then push the cables back up through the hole still attached to the panel as you remove it. You'll probably have to drop the controls down to the bottom location if you intend to fit a double DIN head unit above.

Sorry....we got off track before and I neglected to tell you this.

How good are Doug's pics?

[bptp7270]

Hi John,

I was bored this afternoon so I decided to have a go at the radio removal. A scary prospect in light of my aformentioned opinion on the delicate nature of the plastic on these things. Anyway, using your previous tips, the wokshop manual and Doug Hackney's excellent photos, the complete removal only took about 10 minutes. What an anti climax. The hardest bit was pulling the entire unit forward far enough to extricate the radio, due to the short wiring harness connected to the heater controls. The clarity of Doug Hackney's photo's removed any fear I had about giving that lump of surround plastic the tug required to remove it. On the 649 I had to remove the passenger half of the dash to get the radio out. Although the materials look very similar to the 649, the assembly process is much simpler on this model A good tip in the workshop manual was to tie some thin wire to the two heater cables once removed, to enable you to drag them back down if they get lost. I moved the heater control down to the bottom slot so I can get a double din unit in above it. Now I just have to get a unit that fits and the adapter plug for the factory socket.

Anthony