Really mini & removable toy hauler build

[Blderman]

Hi all,

I am new here, been lurking for about a week taking in ideas and figuring out which direction I want to go. I have to say there a lot of talented people on here with great ideas and craftsmanship. My ultimate desire is to a build a modest size trailer that will still be functional for light off road use (hunting areas, etc) However, at this time my budget will not allow it so I decided to use my existing platform as a "test" model. I have a snowbear 4x8 utility trailer that I will be using, the frame is fairly stout being .120x2x3 perimeter frame with .120x1x3 crosses. However, the tongue does not have braces back to the frame which is my only concern.....although I have been using it for 8 years and overloaded it many times without a problem. Anyhow, I am going to build it with a rear ramp so I can still load my quad in and a small side door. It will also be removable as I am building it as pod. I plan on attaching to the trailer via 1/2" bolts to some angle iron at the pod frame, not sure exactly how I am doing this yet. This will be a minimalist build since I plan on start my larger build this winter. I won't have electrical, power, water etc. Just basic interior paneling, some stick on LED lighting and VCT flooring. I could use some suggestions on the roofing and siding as I don't want to put too much money into it. I was thinking some roll-on rubber membrane for the roof and cheap sheet metal for the sides.....or just paint??

 

[Ozarker]

Welcome! I'll be watching your build as you and I have the same idea. I was thinking about a pod that could be dropped off for a base camp and bolted to the deck of a catamaran boat as well! That would mean a sloping front and probably some to the sides for windage. I was thinking the build could be similar to a slide in for a pick up with the pontoons would be where the truck sides would be. A rear entry.

I'm thinking too that if the center were kept clear for the length and had a hatch entry and a smaller door, the dual sport could slide inside. My trailer is a tilt bed with a ramp originally designed to haul the riding mower.

So either way, seems were are down the same road.

As far as on the cheap, what about plywood and use bed liner paint to seal it up? PDM roofing (rubber roof) would keep the water out for sure, rolled over the sides and fastened with some trim. White would help keep it cooler too.

You can fab some windows with small pieces of lexan and trimed in metal or wood and painted with a heavy dose of bed linner stuff.

I was wondering about running PVC pipe as electrical conduit to keep it from being snagged or damaged with plugged ends and a few drain holes, just in case water does get in.

I won't be using 2x4s but rather 2x2sto keep the weight down. The plywood body will be strong enough with good bracing. Built in hand rails as found on a sail boat can also serve as a rack on the roof.

I'm inclined to follow boat building techniques, some good techniques can be found at "Messing About in small Boats" and "Microcruisng in Bahamas", some neat small cabins there. And some quick builds too.

Good luck with yours!

 

[Blderman]

Made some more progress tonight. Got the other wall built, the header from the rear ramp and the roof rafters installed. Framing wise all I have left is the front end and then I can start on the exterior plywood. I am going to leave the interior floor out until I figure out what method I am going to use to bolt it to the trailer frame. I should be completely enclosed by the weekend and can start working on waterproofing details and the anchoring method.

Ozarker,

I think I am going to use bed liner paint on the lower 30" but I haven't had very much luck with it as a waterproof material....one chip and the integrity is gone. I will definitely keep your ideas in mind as I move forward here. I have quickly realized two things about building these trailers.

1) I am going to have to grow some patience on the larger build as once I start a project I like to finish it in a short period of time. I can see that is not going to happen on a larger build.

2) I am a commercial construction superintendent which means I am pretty picky about finish details etc. I think I am going to have trouble skimping on the outside detailing, even on this preliminary build. The inside I am not as worried about as no one can see it.

 

[Ozarker]

Don't forget to frame in a roof vent. Looks great, nice work!

 

[Blderman]

Thanks! My rafters are 14 1/2" apart so a 14" roof vent should fit just fine, I just need to put in the cross blocking once I figure out where I want it. Priced sheet metal siding this morning and it is way more than I thought it would be. I think I need to place call into one of my roofing vendors and see if they can get it for me at their cost.

 

[Ozarker]

Sounds great! What if you tried a couple coats of kills to seal the wood, then three coats of bed liner paint? Might not be maintenance free for years, but keep an eye on it and touch it up as chips appear.

Another inexpensive cover is with canvas over the wood and glass it with epoxy, then paint.

No matter what coating you put on wood, it can chip, peel, split, crack or sperate, even if you glass it. I would think the next step would be to use metal, ($$$) but then that will require paint to touch it up as well or you'll have rust spots.

Probably the best would be aluminum, left unpainted but sealed. And, Maybe stainless would last longer.

There are many tear drops that are simply varnished wood and covered with clear coats or epoxy. Some are very nicely done with inlaid woods. Like a kayak.

Whichever, seems there would be trade offs, cost of materials for more maintenance required. Bed liner would probably be the cheapest way to protect it, and with care and maintenance, easily touched up. Not that it would be the prettiest finish, but for the money I can't think of anything better. May be someone has a better solution to that.

I do like the idea of rubber roofing on top, for the money. Put down properly on a trailer I would think it would last a very long time, longer than on a building as the small size would have less expansion and contraction than a larger roof would be required to suffer, and no joints to content with if your roof is less than 6' wide....(smallest size I know of for a roll or rem cut).

I will probably use an epoxy paint on mine as I don't care for the look of the bed liner, but may be near the bottom as you said. That is the way many wooden boats are covered and the small ones can take a beating on rivers and they provide a smooth surface and solid color through out. Initially, I might just use house paint as I don't think my vehicle will be kicking up much flak.....ifit's a bad road condition, I'll probably be going slow.

We could always save our beer cans, saw off the tops and bottoms and flaten them to make shingles and nail the on over-lapping them......Bud Light might be an interesting color combination....:sombrero:

Nothing is forever.

 

[Blderman]

Ozarker,

After checking on the price of aluminum siding today I think you might be on the right track for me, at least for the time being. The more I get into this, the more I am excited about being able to use it for hunting trips or quick weekend trips with my wife/kids. I may need to take more time and wire in some basic lighting. Definitely looking forward to my larger build!

Got home from work a little late tonight so I didn't get as much done. Basically just got the front mono trusses installed and sheeted.

 

[Titanpat57]

I ended up using rubber roofing, glued down, and secured at the edges with aluminum trim...it's holding up great.

For the sidewalls, I used FRP contact cemented on. I have several small seams, but the one on the nose box seeems to expand and contract the worse. I can alleviate it by a small pc. of trim if need be.

What was left below the 4' sheet of FRP I covered with aluminum diamond plate. I covered the seam with a pc of trim made from Azek, that was siliconed and stainless screwed on. So far everything is as water tight as a frogs butt :ylsmoke:

Nice project, good progress!

Pat

 

[Ozarker]

Pat, that sounds like a good way to go! How did you apply the FRG and where do you get it?

Biderman, looking at yours, depending on the windows, it looks like another option might be a roll of flashing glued and screwed. Don't know the height to the nose, but a roll might cover that and use trim, even a wide automotive side molding might help at the seems.

 

[Blderman]

Pat,

Thanks for the input. Your build and the Sawtooth XL have been my primary motivations on getting this started. Did you use the generic FRP that is sold at Home Depot/Lowes or did you order something?

Ozarker,

The height to the top at the front is 5' 2 1/2" and the back is 5' 8 1/2". The nose is 27" high. What kind of roll flashing are you thinking of? FRP can be had pretty inexpensively so I have to think about that now.

 

[Blderman]

Any opinions on using this for the siding (1/16").... http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=335&

I used this material to make a spoiler for the back of my fiberglass canopy and it has proved to be very durable thus far. I am thinking this would work very wall as siding and the best part is that it's only $24.95 a sheet so I can side the trailer for $100.00, less the aluminum corner trim.

 

[Titanpat57]

Pat,

Thanks for the input. Your build and the Sawtooth XL have been my primary motivations on getting this started. Did you use the generic FRP that is sold at Home Depot/Lowes or did you order something?

Ozarker,

The height to the top at the front is 5' 2 1/2" and the back is 5' 8 1/2". The nose is 27" high. What kind of roll flashing are you thinking of? FRP can be had pretty inexpensively so I have to think about that now.

Yep..used the FRP right off the shelf...the white one. One thing that has to be considered is it say's it's not UV resistant, so I sanded it lightly, wiped it down, primed it with Rustolem plasic primer, then applied a coat of silver Rustoleum...seems to hold up well. Just put some thought into the joints, and keep them as minimal as possible

As far as the bottom I used diamond plate to make up the 4' high difference. I made sure to apply lots of silicone, (especially at the joints) 4' x 8' sheets can be purchased at a metal supplier, and cut with a carbide toothed saw (the more teeth the better) and a straight edge. I have a little bit of an aluminum fetish...I wish I could weld it. (or, maybe it's a good thing I can't)

Ozarker

I glued it on with spray contact adhesive, I have a commercial setup from my old cabinet shop days, but the cans of 3M would work fine too. There are probably some construction adhesives that work well on wood, and can be applied with a caulk gun. I chose the contact adhesive because I thought it lay flatter, but it's unforgiving, and once both surfaces touch...you're commited. I trimmed everything with a router and ball bearing flush cut bit. The nose box pcs were glued on with an automotive epoxy made by Norton.....pretty pricey. Because they pcs. had to applied and overlapped as I went, I wanted a fast set, and someting sandable.



Another option could be sign grade aluminum, which is generally available in bigger sheets (I think 5' x 10' )...consult a local sign shop. I used 1" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle for the roof and corners....and the doors are wrapped in 1" x 2-1/2" x 1/8". I used a commercial continuous door hinge to hang the doors, not cheap, but almost indestructable.



Jess and the Sawtooth have been, and continues to be, an inspiration to us all.....great guy with a great build!

 

[Blderman]

I think I am going to give that ABS sheeting a try, it comes in black and white and is a lot easier to fabricate than FRP. I will pick a sheet up tomorrow and post up some pics when I have it glued on.

I am starting to get little concerned about the lateral strength of the rear ramp area though. Since I cannot permanently attach the POD to the trailer I also don't have a means of creating a Portal Frame for the door opening. I may have to scrap that idea if I can't figure out a way of transferring the shear loads to the side walls. Maybe some cross bracing that could be removable after transport??? Ideas anyone?

 

[Ozarker]

I have a ramp on my tilt trailer. My pod would have the rear door open upward with fold down supports. My ramp goes three ways, up, straight out from the frame and down, just pivots on the bolts. I'm thinkg of having a smaller entry door in the awning door. Ramp out flat and awning door up expands a little outdoor space to put a chair out of the mud.

Aluminum roof flashing at Lowes or any lumber yard is what I was thing but I doubt it comes wide enoung for your measurements.

 

[Blderman]

Got all the plywood on last night with the exception of the back ramp wall as I still haven't figure out how I am going to build that. My progress will probably slow down significantly from here as my wife and kids have my gone in the evenings all this week, but our normal schedule returns today so I will have a lot less time to work on it. Nevertheless, I am going to try and have it ready by August 1st or so. I priced aluminum angle for the corners last night......:Wow1: I am thinking maybe just sheet metal corners for now until I stumble on some money.....it would be about $300.00 just to trim out all the corners and doors.

Ozarker,

My trailer works similar to yours in that the rear gate can be vertical, horizontal or at a 45 degree onto the ground. What I am more concerned about right now is the actual ramp I had planned on build on the back of the POD. By removing the rear shear wall there is nothing to transfer the lateral loads through and I think I would get a lot of flex or possibly even break the connection of the studs to the floor framing. On Cargo trailers etc. they use a fully welded metal frame that is welded to the trailer frame which transfers the loads. I cannot do that here so I am starting to second guess this portion of the build. Again, if I could come up with some kind of cross bracing that could be quickly removed I think that would suffice, something similar to scaffolding bracing. However, there isn't a lot of framing material in the corners to pick up the load so I may have reached a dead end here. My other thought is building the ramp as a shear panel and having 4 connection points on each side that would lock the ramp to the walls, this would help with load transfer but is going to be pretty tedious and look like crap. I probably should have thought this part through some more.....oh well.