Need Some Help 88-91 vs 93-99 Suburban
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FellowTraveler
Explorer
1999 K2500 Suburban w/diesel hands down
The 1999 K2500 Suburban w/diesel manufactured May 99 and has enhanced diesel and the 4L80e with all the manufacturer updates.
Diesel is easy to upgrade for performance.
Being diesel you can go w/3.42 gear sets for a people mover w/about 4,500 lb +- tow capacity according to GM upfitting manual.
MPG's stock w/4.10's is 17/19 +-, w/3.42's 22/25 +-
Going larger tires means VSSB must be reset for ECM/Trans/ABS Controller to function properly. 255/85/16 e fits w/o any mods, 35" will fit w/only fender cutouts and frt bumper trim no suspension or body lift required.
The 1999 K2500 Suburban w/diesel was used by govt entities and are highly sought after.
As for the IFS vs. solid axle only problem I had ever had was someone claiming to be a mechanic did not change out a C clip when he changed out the axle and cv assembly so it slid out and was prevented from causing a disaster by the bump stop. The IFS in the K2500 is the same as the 1 ton.
The 1999 K2500 Suburban w/diesel manufactured May 99 and has enhanced diesel and the 4L80e with all the manufacturer updates.
Diesel is easy to upgrade for performance.
Being diesel you can go w/3.42 gear sets for a people mover w/about 4,500 lb +- tow capacity according to GM upfitting manual.
MPG's stock w/4.10's is 17/19 +-, w/3.42's 22/25 +-
Going larger tires means VSSB must be reset for ECM/Trans/ABS Controller to function properly. 255/85/16 e fits w/o any mods, 35" will fit w/only fender cutouts and frt bumper trim no suspension or body lift required.
The 1999 K2500 Suburban w/diesel was used by govt entities and are highly sought after.
As for the IFS vs. solid axle only problem I had ever had was someone claiming to be a mechanic did not change out a C clip when he changed out the axle and cv assembly so it slid out and was prevented from causing a disaster by the bump stop. The IFS in the K2500 is the same as the 1 ton.
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Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
I'd prefere a 2500, but wouldn't a 1500 with some extra spring work just as well for you?
I'd avoid the 454. I've had bad luck with that engine, especially overheating and porr effieciency. Stick with the small blocks and 8.1L big blocks.
The Votec 5.7L is a good engine. Change out the alternator, battery, and starter as soon as you get your hands on these. If the fuel pump is noisey change that as well. Other than that they're good reliable vehicles.
Toss some Wet Okole seat covers at this (probally around $550) and it appears to be a nice rig:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=58&standard=false
Darn, CO has all kinds of nice burbans:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=57&standard=false
Good used $5-6K trucks are great for Expo rigs. No point in throwing a new suspension and diffs at a brand new truck. If you really foresee a solid axle conversion in the future, skip the burbans and pony up to the more expensive Ford Excusions now.
I'd avoid the 454. I've had bad luck with that engine, especially overheating and porr effieciency. Stick with the small blocks and 8.1L big blocks.
The Votec 5.7L is a good engine. Change out the alternator, battery, and starter as soon as you get your hands on these. If the fuel pump is noisey change that as well. Other than that they're good reliable vehicles.
Toss some Wet Okole seat covers at this (probally around $550) and it appears to be a nice rig:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=58&standard=false
Darn, CO has all kinds of nice burbans:
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...pe=b&num_records=25&cardist=57&standard=false
Good used $5-6K trucks are great for Expo rigs. No point in throwing a new suspension and diffs at a brand new truck. If you really foresee a solid axle conversion in the future, skip the burbans and pony up to the more expensive Ford Excusions now.
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hillbillyjake
Explorer
don't forget about the semifloat 14 bolt if you go 1/2 ton. bigger brakes and 9.5" ring gear and still retain 6 lug wheels to match the front. you may need a crossover u-joint for you rd-shaft will bolt up, but otherwise a bolt in swap
Thanks for all of the feedback. I have looked at a couple of vehicles lately, and I just can't seem to find anything clean locally in the 2500. I did a search across the country for the diesel option and they are few and far between. The closest one I have found is Iowa, and it looks like I am at 5-6K to pick one of those up.
I have found some pretty clean 1500 Burbs model year 99, for decent prices, local private party. My goal is no more than $4,000. While the ones from the dealerships posted above are clean, they have $300-$500 dealer handeling, and on these older vehicles it's BS as they don't look like they have done much with them, and they have no history.
So all of that said, I think the 1500 may be my bag. Anything I need to look at on these in particular? I will have it gone over by my mechanic.
This one is really clean but priced high http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2495609028.html I know on edmunds the TMV with everything considered for CO is about $4,400 private party.
There is also this one, http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2492355682.html been for sale for a while now as I have seen it. Don't know why it hasn't sold yet, looks clean.
I did find this 2500 up in the mountains here in CO. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2491324548.html I have emailed and asked for additional pics etc.
I am looking for something clean and dependable first and foremost. The best part is that I have time to find the right one, and the cash, so I will keep an eye out. Just can't tell if the 2500 is really worth waiting for if the 1500 can be had more readily and seem to be cleaner.
I have found some pretty clean 1500 Burbs model year 99, for decent prices, local private party. My goal is no more than $4,000. While the ones from the dealerships posted above are clean, they have $300-$500 dealer handeling, and on these older vehicles it's BS as they don't look like they have done much with them, and they have no history.
So all of that said, I think the 1500 may be my bag. Anything I need to look at on these in particular? I will have it gone over by my mechanic.
This one is really clean but priced high http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2495609028.html I know on edmunds the TMV with everything considered for CO is about $4,400 private party.
There is also this one, http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2492355682.html been for sale for a while now as I have seen it. Don't know why it hasn't sold yet, looks clean.
I did find this 2500 up in the mountains here in CO. http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/2491324548.html I have emailed and asked for additional pics etc.
I am looking for something clean and dependable first and foremost. The best part is that I have time to find the right one, and the cash, so I will keep an eye out. Just can't tell if the 2500 is really worth waiting for if the 1500 can be had more readily and seem to be cleaner.
helcaraxe
New member
Any of those trucks would be a great base to start from!
I recently picked up this 1993 K1500 for $4700. I plan to overhaul the engine, possibly put something new in first, then I will be turning the rear into a custom camper with a custom foam mattress and places to store things. It won't be a heavy duty offroader, but at least I can get to a few places and have some fun with it!
I recently picked up this 1993 K1500 for $4700. I plan to overhaul the engine, possibly put something new in first, then I will be turning the rear into a custom camper with a custom foam mattress and places to store things. It won't be a heavy duty offroader, but at least I can get to a few places and have some fun with it!
FellowTraveler
Explorer
K1500 or K2500
The K1500 has more suspension options available than the K2500 and is usually converted to straight axle (SAS) mostly because the front ifs differential is much smaller and weaker than the K2500/3500 frt diff. IMHO the K2500/3500 IFS diff is all that is needed for types of on/off adventures if driven properly, beat on anything it will in time break, treat it with care and it will return many, many, many miles of happy motoring.
As for drive-train a 4L80e which comes in the K2500 diesel is super strong and used in high hp/tq conversions.
The enhanced 6.5td available in May 1999 and newer K2500, pickups and vans will last and just a few mods revolving around the injection pump driver will make it reliable and trouble free providing proper pm is done.
If you do get a K1500 you can always upgrade on the cheap w/pulled parts from any K2500/3500 from a bone yard.
Whatever the choice good luck with your project!
The K1500 has more suspension options available than the K2500 and is usually converted to straight axle (SAS) mostly because the front ifs differential is much smaller and weaker than the K2500/3500 frt diff. IMHO the K2500/3500 IFS diff is all that is needed for types of on/off adventures if driven properly, beat on anything it will in time break, treat it with care and it will return many, many, many miles of happy motoring.
As for drive-train a 4L80e which comes in the K2500 diesel is super strong and used in high hp/tq conversions.
The enhanced 6.5td available in May 1999 and newer K2500, pickups and vans will last and just a few mods revolving around the injection pump driver will make it reliable and trouble free providing proper pm is done.
If you do get a K1500 you can always upgrade on the cheap w/pulled parts from any K2500/3500 from a bone yard.
Whatever the choice good luck with your project!
FellowTraveler
Explorer
Nice burb
Perhaps, a diesel conversion thinking cummins or isuzu here might be a better option for that K1500.
Perhaps, a diesel conversion thinking cummins or isuzu here might be a better option for that K1500.
I have a few things to add here.
On the half tons (1500) beware that the rear axle is usually a problem Most are the 10B, the bigger (optional)14Bmetric is usually fine.
On the vortec engines, especially the early ones there have been quite a few intake manifold gaskets go bad. Its something to check on any vortec engine. It can be as simple as a leak down the front or the back of the block or a leak into the combustion chamber or worse yet, leak right down into the lifter valley and straight into the oilpan.
Neither of these problems, should make you shy of them just something to keep in mind.
You should be on the look out for a VERY clean burb even if it has a bad rear axle, the 14Bmetric is an easy junk yard upgrade to fix it. I see real nice 93-99 1500 burbs with a bad rear axle for CHEAP all the time on KSL.com, a local classified site.
On the half tons (1500) beware that the rear axle is usually a problem Most are the 10B, the bigger (optional)14Bmetric is usually fine.
On the vortec engines, especially the early ones there have been quite a few intake manifold gaskets go bad. Its something to check on any vortec engine. It can be as simple as a leak down the front or the back of the block or a leak into the combustion chamber or worse yet, leak right down into the lifter valley and straight into the oilpan.
Neither of these problems, should make you shy of them just something to keep in mind.
You should be on the look out for a VERY clean burb even if it has a bad rear axle, the 14Bmetric is an easy junk yard upgrade to fix it. I see real nice 93-99 1500 burbs with a bad rear axle for CHEAP all the time on KSL.com, a local classified site.
Little Red
Adventurer
If I where in your situation I would find a ¾ ton 94-99 suburban.
These have the much more comfortable interior and newer (more fuel efficient) vortec engines.
They started these upgrades in 1994 but the later model you can find the better.
If you can’t find a good 94-99 suburban I would definitely go with the 89-91 model year and I would stay away from the 92 & 93 model year suburban’s as these have no advantage over the 89-91 model years (unless you just like the new body style better).
Personally I would try to find a ¾ ton diesel suburban as you can get almost twice the mpg’s compared to the 350 or 454. They will be harder to find and more expensive however but it will save you money in the long run.
On another note if you are mechanically inclined the earlier 350 tbi engines are very reliable and easy to work on.
Personally I have a 1989 Suburban and chose the 89-91 model year because I am driving it more off road than on paved roads. I like to have the solid axles and parts are cheaper and they are easier to work on than the newer suburban’s.
But for your situation I think a 94-99 suburban would be your best bet.
These have the much more comfortable interior and newer (more fuel efficient) vortec engines.
They started these upgrades in 1994 but the later model you can find the better.
If you can’t find a good 94-99 suburban I would definitely go with the 89-91 model year and I would stay away from the 92 & 93 model year suburban’s as these have no advantage over the 89-91 model years (unless you just like the new body style better).
Personally I would try to find a ¾ ton diesel suburban as you can get almost twice the mpg’s compared to the 350 or 454. They will be harder to find and more expensive however but it will save you money in the long run.
On another note if you are mechanically inclined the earlier 350 tbi engines are very reliable and easy to work on.
Personally I have a 1989 Suburban and chose the 89-91 model year because I am driving it more off road than on paved roads. I like to have the solid axles and parts are cheaper and they are easier to work on than the newer suburban’s.
But for your situation I think a 94-99 suburban would be your best bet.
FellowTraveler
Explorer
Diesel or not, learn to fix it yourself or be stranded somewhere far, far, away!
The GM 6.5 diesel turbo or NA have gotten a bad rap because of mis/dis-information generated mostly from lack of knowledge. However, if you take the time to understand the 6.5 diesel or any other diesel you'll find it's not hard at all.
Then learn about GM's injection system design flaws like the pump mounted driver (PMD) being mounted on the injection pump and overheating, then having a mechanic wanting to change out the injection pump to correct an overheating PMD. Remote mounted PMD on cooling plate outside engine compartment solves this issue.
Another issue is the lift pump failure mostly because of lack of filter before it install a good raycor and issue gone.
Cracked blocks/heads are usually due to beating on the diesel (cranking boost w/o monitoring results), improper cooling system maintenance, or overheating during a tow.
Anything can break when you beat on it, so care and proper driving skills are a must.
As for understanding diesels they have no ignition distributor instead there is a fuel distributor w/compression igniting the diesel charge, newer injection is EMC controlled. Factory service manuals can be had for a specific brand, even tech training manuals are available making owning and repairing a diesel worthwhile.
IMHO, any overland/expo vehicle owner has the responsibility to know their vehicle top to bottom and how to do most if not all of the repairs themselves when needed. There are no service centers, road service or otherwise of the beaten path.
Ask yourself can I in the field; break a tire down and fix a puncture, replace a u-joint, fix a hole in my oil pan, replace a wheel bearing, weld a snapped axle, replace a broken brake/fuel/cooling line, diagnose electrical or fuel problems, I can go on and on with questions, but w/o the ability to help yourself when leaving the pavement puts you, your friends, family, pets, others and your rig at risk.
This site covers everything possible for a great and safe adventure, however it's on you to know your rig and it's drive-train and deal w/breakdowns and parts failures.
FIX IT YOURSELF or doing your own preventative maintenance (PM) doesn't mean being cheap it means being wise and self sufficient.
The GM 6.5 diesel turbo or NA have gotten a bad rap because of mis/dis-information generated mostly from lack of knowledge. However, if you take the time to understand the 6.5 diesel or any other diesel you'll find it's not hard at all.
Then learn about GM's injection system design flaws like the pump mounted driver (PMD) being mounted on the injection pump and overheating, then having a mechanic wanting to change out the injection pump to correct an overheating PMD. Remote mounted PMD on cooling plate outside engine compartment solves this issue.
Another issue is the lift pump failure mostly because of lack of filter before it install a good raycor and issue gone.
Cracked blocks/heads are usually due to beating on the diesel (cranking boost w/o monitoring results), improper cooling system maintenance, or overheating during a tow.
Anything can break when you beat on it, so care and proper driving skills are a must.
As for understanding diesels they have no ignition distributor instead there is a fuel distributor w/compression igniting the diesel charge, newer injection is EMC controlled. Factory service manuals can be had for a specific brand, even tech training manuals are available making owning and repairing a diesel worthwhile.
IMHO, any overland/expo vehicle owner has the responsibility to know their vehicle top to bottom and how to do most if not all of the repairs themselves when needed. There are no service centers, road service or otherwise of the beaten path.
Ask yourself can I in the field; break a tire down and fix a puncture, replace a u-joint, fix a hole in my oil pan, replace a wheel bearing, weld a snapped axle, replace a broken brake/fuel/cooling line, diagnose electrical or fuel problems, I can go on and on with questions, but w/o the ability to help yourself when leaving the pavement puts you, your friends, family, pets, others and your rig at risk.
This site covers everything possible for a great and safe adventure, however it's on you to know your rig and it's drive-train and deal w/breakdowns and parts failures.
FIX IT YOURSELF or doing your own preventative maintenance (PM) doesn't mean being cheap it means being wise and self sufficient.
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Thanks for the great advice. When I had my 80 Series Land Cruiser I did 95% of the maintence myself. I am a big fan of learning how to be self sufficient. I have found a 95 2500 Diesel locally that has 185K on the clock. They are asking $5,500 for it, but when I am looking at Edmunds.com that seems high. I am going to try and get over to go look at it in the next day or so. In the ad it says needs a front window, which it appears they mean the passenger side door window, and it doesn't appear to have a third row seat. It also says that the AC doesn't work, so I will need to factor that in. DOn't know how often I would use it but it would be beneficial. Are they hard to find? The only other diesel that I have found locally is one with 360K on the clock. How long do these things last?
That being said, I almost bought a 2000 F-350 a couple of years ago and there is a local diesel shop that does pre-purchase inspections that I would most likely take it to first.