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Thread: Theoretical overland flatbed design for F-350 DRW Crew Cab

  1. #1

    Default Theoretical overland flatbed design for F-350 DRW Crew Cab

    I stopped for coffee on my way to work this morning when I saw my dream overlanding vehicle-a crew cab F-350, DRW, 4x4 with a flatbed pulling out of the lot. Since my family is outgrowing my regular cab rather quickly I've been putting a lot of thought into what will eventually become my DD/expedition vehicle next. A crew cab Super Duty will give me all of what I need-room for kids and dogs in the back and plenty of power and room for hauling. I've only recently been thinking in terms of a flatbed though-I toyed with the idea of putting one on my current truck because of the infamous Super Duty wheel well rust problem, but I can't justify the cost right now. Nevertheless, researching flatbeds has shown me a lot about their utility with regard to work and overland travel. In addition to it's overland duties of hauling kids, dogs, and gear to campsites all over New Jersey, Pennsylvania, New York, and once in a while to Maine, I need a truck that can haul a full cord of green firewood with no sweat. In looking at commercially available flatbeds and work bodies I think I came up with a good compromise. The drawings presented below would not be a completely fabricated "one-off" design, but rather an assembly of off-the-shelf parts with some customizing here and there. I started with the dimensions of the Truck Craft TC-500 aluminum flatbed:

    Truck Craft TC-500

    I'm thinking that I would source their bed, and though I didn't include it in the drawing, their tailboard (complete with lights, etc...) as well. The cab guard I sort of freestyled-they have cab guards but there were no exact dimensions, so I put together something that would be high enough to allow carrying canoes, kayaks, lumber, etc...on top without worrying about bumping into the roof or cab marker lights. The side and undermount boxes could be sized from just about anywhere. I also thought that it probably wouldn't be that hard to make them easily removable by bolting them from the inside using captive nuts fastened to the underside of the bed. This way you could quickly go to a clean flatbed if the need arose to carry something very large. The box that is mounted directly behind the cab is the toolbox/fuel tank combo that is currently installed in my regular cab. The fuel tank is the second tank of my two tank SVO system. It holds 60 gallons of vegetable oil. The amount of storage in the top is almost negligible so I'm not too concerned about access-all I carry in there now is spare filters and a funnel. On the side you'll see stake pockets which would allow me to insert homemade wooden stake-sides to convert to wood hauling mode. Since the boxes will be mounted flush, they could stay in place with the stake-sides on. With 4' stake-sides I will be able to carry just over a cord and a half with the boxes in place, which is probably enough, considering a cord and a half of green ash weighs over 7,000lbs Back to the matter at hand however, as this is an overlanding site.

    Between the four storage boxes, a planned receiver hitch carrier for the rear, the overhead racks, and the ample bed space (I plan to design a removable "tailgate" to go between the boxes) the truck should easily accommodate everything from a weekend of canoeing and camping at the Delaware Water Gap to two weeks of camping and exploring the Great North Woods of Maine. Please give me your feedback on the design:



    Last edited by IHDiesel73L; 07-22-2011 at 08:36 PM.

  2. #2
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    A bunch of flush d-rings in the floor so that you can ratchet strap down any cargo would be handy.

    The hard rubber bumpers semi trailers have on thier rears are nice to have on the sides of our flatbeds if your planning to use a bed wider than your truck.

    Removable bars connecting the uprights together for extra strength. And haveing the top of the rear bar able to be unbolted is convenient if you ever have to move something tall like a motorcycle.

    How about riveting on some stainless snaps? So you can snap a, 3 flat piece, canvas top on.
    Last edited by Buliwyf; 07-23-2011 at 03:55 AM.

  3. #3
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    The front boxes might snag some rocks depending on where you take the truck. I have never been to Maine so I might be way off. Here in CA some trails can have some very difficult rock and rutt obstacles that might damage that type of Box. If the boxes are removable definitely keep the stake pockets. If the boxes are not removable I don't see any need for them. Just my $.02. I have an F350 Crew cab which i plan to put a flat bed on. I think your flat bed looks very good. What do you plan to make it out of? Steel or Aluminum? Do you have your own welder?
    2000 Ford F350 4x4 Long Bed
    Off Road PUP build http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...331#post905331

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Buliwyf View Post
    A bunch of flush d-rings in the floor so that you can ratchet strap down any cargo would be handy.

    The hard rubber bumpers semi trailers have on thier rears are nice to have on the sides of our flatbeds if your planning to use a bed wider than your truck.

    Removable bars connecting the uprights together for extra strength. And haveing the top of the rear bar able to be unbolted is convenient if you ever have to move something tall like a motorcycle.

    How about riveting on some stainless snaps? So you can snap a, 3 flat piece, canvas top on.
    All great ideas-thanks! I'm actually working on some sort of removable top "tray" that could be used to store gear on top, a spare or two, etc...

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackWidow View Post
    The front boxes might snag some rocks depending on where you take the truck. I have never been to Maine so I might be way off. Here in CA some trails can have some very difficult rock and rutt obstacles that might damage that type of Box.
    Not too much rock hopping to be done in Maine, but ruts could be an issue. Most of the truck's time will be spent on gravel and dirt roads that are relatively well maintained. For example, in Maine we travel the private logging roads in paper and timber company territory-these have to be in good shape because you have massive logging trucks traveling to and from the mills constantly. Some of the secondary roads to the actual logging camps can get a little hairy though. It probably wouldn't be difficult to make the boxes easily removable.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackWidow View Post
    If the boxes are removable definitely keep the stake pockets. If the boxes are not removable I don't see any need for them. Just my $.02. I have an F350 Crew cab which i plan to put a flat bed on. I think your flat bed looks very good. What do you plan to make it out of? Steel or Aluminum? Do you have your own welder?
    If you scroll up a bit you'll see a pdf I linked to from a company in Pennsylvania that makes aluminum flatbeds-I plan on buying the plain flat from them with stake pockets and a tailboard and then fabricating the uprights and sourcing boxes from somewhere else. I wish I had the ability to weld aluminum but I have neither the welder nor the skill. Steel I could probably do, but the weight issue bothers me.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I'd also make the bottom box removable. Those boxes get hit alot on our work trucks, and those aren't supposed to go offroad at all. Techs forget that the boxes stick out more than a regular pickup bed or dually bed.

    How tough is that Aluminum. Steel flatbeds can take a huge hit and just bounce off. Wouldn't steel be cheaper as well?

    Whatever you do, don't paint it to match your truck. My company deos that and it allways looks terrible. Flat surfaces on the bed compared to the round surfaces of the truck, and a little off in the color match, and it looks terrible. Just have the whole bed and boxes sprayed in flat black or black Line-x. I wonder if powdercoat could be an option.

  6. #6
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    I have had several 2000-2002 F-350-550's. My current project is (are) a 2000 F-550 4x4 gasser (urban log grabber) with a totally custom Hiab knuckleboom and log bed, and a "Family tripping vehicle" a 2002 F-350 7.3 CC 4x4 drw factory cab chassis. The 350 cab chassis has the same straight frame as F450-550 but slightly thinner (1/4" not 3/8") and front axle/ springs is/are same on all F350 thru 550. Hubs are the only upgrade on the front. The 350-450 share a Dana 80 rear and the 550 has the MONSTER Dana S135. I wish the 350 where a 550, but oh well. I like steel beds for durability and the S-135 regear and posi are $2500 instead of the $1000 if it were and 80 (that is labor included). I have dual fuel OEM tanks ready to put in each, they are tough to source. The OEM fuel tank straps are not broke down by tank size for the side frame model so I had to order them 5 times until we got the right ones. I would DEFINETELY look in truckpaper.com for a older F-350 CC 4x4 7.3. DONT get a 6.0 OR 6.4 PERIOD!!! unless you are a mechanic. YIKES. $$$$ I love the F450-550 platform, you cant beat them and with the 7.3 they ROCK. Look on FordTruckEnthusiast for LOTS of insights on any issues with Ford products. It is a great resource.

    The first pic is my log bed, the others are of the Duece bed that can sit on top of the log bed rails with a custom tarpaulin, the side which flip up to create a canopy t owork/ cook under. My 350 will have a similar set up.

    Good luck Jronwood

    PS, three kids 9-4-3 and had the same issue you did with needing space.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jronwood; 07-23-2011 at 08:47 PM.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by jronwood View Post
    I have had several 2000-2002 F-350-550's. My current project is (are) a 2000 F-550 4x4 gasser (urban log grabber) with a totally custom Hiab knuckleboom and log bed, and a "Family tripping vehicle" a 2002 F-350 7.3 CC 4x4 drw factory cab chassis. The 350 cab chassis has the same straight frame as F450-550 but slightly thinner (1/4" not 3/8") and front axle/ springs is/are same on all F350 thru 550. Hubs are the only upgrade on the front. The 350-450 share a Dana 80 rear and the 550 has the MONSTER Dana S135. I wish the 350 where a 550, but oh well. I like steel beds for durability and the S-135 regear and posi are $2500 instead of the $1000 if it were and 80 (that is labor included). I have dual fuel OEM tanks ready to put in each, they are tough to source. The OEM fuel tank straps are not broke down by tank size for the side frame model so I had to order them 5 times until we got the right ones. I would DEFINETELY look in truckpaper.com for a older F-350 CC 4x4 7.3. DONT get a 6.0 OR 6.4 PERIOD!!! unless you are a mechanic. YIKES. $$$$ I love the F450-550 platform, you cant beat them and with the 7.3 they ROCK. Look on FordTruckEnthusiast for LOTS of insights on any issues with Ford products. It is a great resource.

    The first pic is my log bed, the others are of the Duece bed that can sit on top of the log bed rails with a custom tarpaulin, the side which flip up to create a canopy t owork/ cook under. My 350 will have a similar set up.

    Good luck Jronwood

    PS, three kids 9-4-3 and had the same issue you did with needing space.
    Nice rigs! I'm going to look around a lot on commercial truck trader for a cab/chassis. I'm hoping that I can find an ex fleet vehicle that was well taken care of.

  8. #8
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    Default A Flatbed Makes a Good Platform for




    this Alaskan Camper hardshell popup that was built at full width to fit on a flatbed. Note the storage boxes below the bed fore and aft of the wheels.

    Here's an Alaskan that was designed as a slide in for a pickup, but was mounted on a flatbed. Since the floor of this model is pickup width, extra storage boxes have been added creating the effect of a utility bed:



    The thread discussing both of these builds can be found here:

    http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...amper-Build-Up

    Alaskan home page:

    http://www.alaskancamper.com/

    Even if you don't choose an Alaskan, maybe this will give you some ideas. Hope it helps.

  9. #9
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    The newer F Chassis do not always ahve the same drive train on the newer models. I think and i apologize if am wrong 2007 was the last year that they shared front axles. F350 only had a Dana 60 front end, 450's and 550's had what is called a super 60. Now that ended here top long ago as well, only 550's have the super 60. Rear axles are only shared between 450 and 550 and that is current. 350 Chassis do not have the huge 450 and 550 dana in back. I went thru this jsut recently. I purchased a long milage 06 F550 4x4 200" frame crew cab deisel w auto. I spent alot of time searching out a low mileage, late model w/ 6.0. wanted to stay away form early 6.0's, not sure if the new 6.4 is any good yet. i finally found a gov fleet cable truck w/ a service body flat bed combo this spring. I have been building it/rebuilding it to make it more civilized and adding comforts too it. I pulled the service body and got quite a bit for it, i have new michelin 44' mpts, hemmt rims, a sleeper cab and i am just finishing a custom 10' box w/ custom fiberglass bedsides flared enough to fit the MPT's without lifting truck( jsut leveled it). it rides rough, but as soon as i get it fulled outfitted i am haveing the rear spring pack swithced for something a little less jarring. i am also installing a Knap Kap with full rear doors and side full side doors and then possibly a flip pack for the roof. Nice thing is if i absolutely have too i can pull the Knap Kap and still have a full box and still have a sleeper attached to the cab on the first two feet of the box.
    2006 Ford F550 Crew 200" Wbase, Trek truck in progress.
    2007 Honda Civci SI striped bare of decals and street prepped for any porsche or SLK
    2 corollas for work that have more miles than a boeing 747

  10. #10
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    Worth noting for some interested in the new Dodge 4500 and 5500 series, the Daimler Chrysler truck has some sort of German axles and my gear shop said he had looked into regearing one of the 4x4 5500's and it was astronomically expensive, FYI.


    Jronwood

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