New To Me Family Land Yacht - 2002 Suburban 2500

BPMOU

Observer
I'll be doing the same thing when the auto system dumps.

Would you please measure your fender height from ground at the hubs for me? I'd like to know the height difference between your front and rear to compare with mine.

From the ground (on level surface at the center of the hub) to the fender is 37.25. I used my level because my tape measure was missing, so it was perfectly up and down.
 
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BPMOU

Observer
Brakes Plus, $40.00 to $60.00 for a full brake system flush

Thanks for this mention. I didn't even think to take it there. They did it for $35. I had them to the power steering as well, and they replaced the leaking hose too. Pretty reasonable and it was done quickly and at a decent price.
 

goin camping

Explorer
From the ground (on level surface at the center of the hub) to the fender is 37.25. I used my level because my tape measure was missing, so it was perfectly up and down.

Both front and rear were 37.25? Mine is 34 3/4 front and 39 1/2 at the rear.
 
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jgwjr

New member
As far as the shocks go, Get the bilstiens and then got to radio shak and get a 25 watt at 3.9 ohm resistor and solder it in between the elctrical conections for the shock and that take care of the warning lights. The resistor fools the bcm into thinking the shock is still there.
 

Daddy

New member
In response to your comment about tire sizes, I have an 03 GMC Yukon XL and it fits 285/75R16 on the factory 16" wheels without any additional lift. Sorry I don't have any pictures of it without a trailer handy.

 

BPMOU

Observer
As far as the shocks go, Get the bilstiens and then got to radio shak and get a 25 watt at 3.9 ohm resistor and solder it in between the elctrical conections for the shock and that take care of the warning lights. The resistor fools the bcm into thinking the shock is still there.

I have seen this mentioned before, do I just cut the connector and solder in the resistor? I need the remedial how to
 

BPMOU

Observer
Update and advice needed. I have a bad wheel bearing an will need new hubs. I am planning on replacing both sides. I am trying to decide on a brand. I can get a moog or Timken or various other "house" brands. The brand name hubs are between 200-250. I am also looking at doing my tie rods and ball joints while I am in there. Same questions on parts there. Moog makes replacements for all of the steering parts up front or should I save my money and go with the store brand.

Finally, I need to replace my shocks. I am wondering if I need to replace my shocks now should I throw a leveling kit on at the same time and look at the bilstein 5100 as opposed to their hd line? I have 245/65/16 on there now but would like to go to a 265 or 285 tire.

Any recommendations would be welcomed.
 

FellowTraveler

Explorer
Update and advice needed. I have a bad wheel bearing an will need new hubs. I am planning on replacing both sides. I am trying to decide on a brand. I can get a moog or Timken or various other "house" brands. The brand name hubs are between 200-250. I am also looking at doing my tie rods and ball joints while I am in there. Same questions on parts there. Moog makes replacements for all of the steering parts up front or should I save my money and go with the store brand.

Finally, I need to replace my shocks. I am wondering if I need to replace my shocks now should I throw a leveling kit on at the same time and look at the bilstein 5100 as opposed to their hd line? I have 245/65/16 on there now but would like to go to a 265 or 285 tire.

Any recommendations would be welcomed.

I'm thinking the weak link in your front end steering is the fact that the tie rods are attached to the outside ends of the center link which limits travel which in turn bends tie rod and or pops the tie rod ball joint in extreme situations. Earlier design 1999 and back has the tie rods attached at the side of the center link allowing for extreme travel w/o aforementioned failure issues. A few aftermarket solutions are available.

I'd stick to high end TIMPKIN for wheel bearings.

MOOG problem solver parts for all steering.

Be aware, your Burb may have a "rag joint" in the steering shaft at conventional steering box under a composite cover. This rag joint if damaged or worn must be replaced. I on one occasion had someone try to sell me a steering box when the rag joint was at fault, be aware!

POLYURETHANE suspension bushings when your existing bushings start to fail, polys are a great upgrade and the graphite impregnated black by Energy Suspension.
 

BPMOU

Observer
I'm thinking the weak link in your front end steering is the fact that the tie rods are attached to the outside ends of the center link which limits travel which in turn bends tie rod and or pops the tie rod ball joint in extreme situations. Earlier design 1999 and back has the tie rods attached at the side of the center link allowing for extreme travel w/o aforementioned failure issues. A few aftermarket solutions are available.

I'd stick to high end TIMPKIN for wheel bearings.

MOOG problem solver parts for all steering.

Be aware, your Burb may have a "rag joint" in the steering shaft at conventional steering box under a composite cover. This rag joint if damaged or worn must be replaced. I on one occasion had someone try to sell me a steering box when the rag joint was at fault, be aware!

POLYURETHANE suspension bushings when your existing bushings start to fail, polys are a great upgrade and the graphite impregnated black by Energy Suspension.

Great info. Thanks. I had the front suspension inspected on Saturday. My issue up front was my pitman and idler arm. Lots of play. I bought the moog replacement for both and my mechanic is putting them on along with two new hub assemblies on both sides. I looked at the Timkin buy after much evaluation the moog hub looked better built.

While I had the front end inspected the tech said my ball joints and tie rods were good to go. May save those and the upgrade rubber pieces for another couple of months.
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
BP, i am running Bilstein 5150s in the rear and I have to say that the difference over Ranchos is amazing!:Wow1:
 

RacerX29

New member
I have seen this mentioned before, do I just cut the connector and solder in the resistor? I need the remedial how to

Not sure if you're still looking, but I did this trick on my 2000 Suburban 2500 LT - I have the 6.0 engine - and found out I had auto-ride shocks when I went to swap them out. The resistors work, I put them in at all four corners. This guy has put together a decent pdf that shows the steps: robsvtwin@netscape.net
 

BPMOU

Observer
Not sure if you're still looking, but I did this trick on my 2000 Suburban 2500 LT - I have the 6.0 engine - and found out I had auto-ride shocks when I went to swap them out. The resistors work, I put them in at all four corners. This guy has put together a decent pdf that shows the steps: robsvtwin@netscape.net

That would be great. I have heard people talk about doing this but really had no clue. How. Do I just email that address?
 

RacerX29

New member
As far as the shocks go, Get the bilstiens and then got to radio shak and get a 25 watt at 3.9 ohm resistor and solder it in between the elctrical conections for the shock and that take care of the warning lights. The resistor fools the bcm into thinking the shock is still there.


Highly recommend this fix - I used it on my 2000 Suburban 2500 LT w/ no issues so far.
 

RacerX29

New member
That would be great. I have heard people talk about doing this but really had no clue. How. Do I just email that address?

I e-mailed the guy, and he sent me a pdf w/ pics on how he installed everything - worked great. I'd send you a copy of the pdf, but I can't find a copy. Must have deleted it...
 

BPMOU

Observer
I finally heard back from the guy with the PDF. Looks straight forward. I got the iron and shrink wrap and now just need the resistors and wire. What kind I wire should I use and where can I get it from? Any ideas? If anyone needs the PDF of how to bypass the auto ride let me know and I'll email it to you
 

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