Great Ebay deals on Waeco fridges, just got one lot of ?s for you experts

Jay H

servicedriven.org
Well after wanting a fridge ever since I saw one at the last over land exp in amado I started looking. The top of the line engel and ARB offering sure seem nice but there prices are a long ways off of what I can afford. I wasn't totally sold on the edge star with its higher power consumption. This leaves Waeco but there still more than I can spend, that was until I came across this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-WAECO-12V-P...rigerators&hash=item35b45425c4#ht_6965wt_1185
This seemed like such a good deal so I went ahead and got one. Its an OEM model with DC only and mounting rails included. It also already has a connector on the end that looks like a Gm alternator plug/weather tech, available at an auto part store cheap. Perfect for mounting on my ply wood cargo shelf in the back of my vehicle. I will run a good oversized fused line from the battery straight to the fridge connector. Should avoid all the faulty cigarette lighter socket nonsense that causes problems with these.
At $334 with shipping I have gone for it. I am on the road so I had it shipped to a friend in Flagstaff, AZ and will be picking it up in a couple weeks. I cant wait to stop buying ice.
I have never used a 12V fridge before and I know people on here have been running them for years.
Here are my questions/concerns with using this thing in my vehicle. I did try to find answers by searching first. I really don't think I need a dual battery set up and don't really want the extra weight and complexity. We almost always drive at least an hour every day, more often 3 to 6 hours. Frequently when we stop somewhere for a long time I have access to AC power to plug it in. I know this thing pulls 45 watts when the compressor is on. I am told the compressor really only runs about 20 min for every hour. I can and will try to improve this with an insulated case. I know this thing will have a low voltage cut off but I still have concerns. I know car batteries don’t like deep cycling but what is an acceptable cycle for an ordinary run of the mill battery, 30%, 40% or 60% of charge remaining. I am ok with wearing out the battery a little bit faster than normal but I don’t want it to happen in only 4 months time. I know I can set the voltage cut off point – I am thinking the stock cut off point is for sure going to guarantee starting, but what about damage to the battery. Again I am ok with a little battery abuse but not a lot since I will be using thing every day for at least the next 4 months. I am really hoping I can run the fridge off battery power for 15 hours or so every day without killing the battery. I guess if I had to I could try to figure out a dual battery system but there is little room anywhere. I am not sure a cheap solar panel would do enough. Thanks in advance for good advise.
 

hoser

Explorer
Nice find. This looks very similar to their CF32UP but the UP has a built-in battery. I wonder if this model has the battery too. I have a CF-50 and there is dairy compartment above the compressor.

As for your question, on my Waeco, there are 3 selections for voltage cut-off. Start with the highest voltage for the least amount of wear on your battery. If you drive 3-6 hrs a day, you should have no trouble running this small fridge all the time. I usually set mine on three bars and can keep ice on the bottom for a few days with everything else at about 38 degrees. When set to the lowest voltage cut-off and the fridge cuts out, my SUV can still start in moderate temperatures.
 
Last edited:

nuclearlemon

Adventurer
i've got an older waeco and it's great having a fridge as opposed to a cooler. only issue i have is it doesn't appear to have consistent temp ranges. i picked up a thermometer so i can better monitor temps.

i ran it for a year or so on a single battery with no issues unless it sat for more than a day. cruiser would crank a little longer, but would still start the next afternoon.
 

Jay H

servicedriven.org
Lower price. Figures.

For those of you considdering this model the seller seems to have quite a few available.
I did buy one and here are my impresions.
This thing is a cdf-35 customized by waeco mobile solutions for ford.

It has a silly lid with cup holders and a hinge in the middle. The lid with the cup holders along with an insulated plastic wall are screwed in place. This eliminates the dairy compartment. Of course I undid this by removing the all the little screws and filling in the cup holders with polystyrene. I also added a bunch of foam weather sprip to various places on the lid to seal it up air tight.

A few more points this model can not take ac power and has a pig tail with a weathertech connector pre wired. I was able to get the other half of the connector at napa. I ran 8awg low voltage landscape wire and a 10A fuse to the battery. I just have the wire coming out of the trim under the passanger rear door. This is a nice secure low cost sollution.

There are no handles on the sides.

This model has solid metal rails included for bolting it down, which I use and like a lot.

There is no cut off voltage protection switch, it is pre set at 10.5V.

Thanks to another waeco fridge thread on this forum I got the data sheet for the danfoss compressor and controller. With this I re set the cut out voltage to 11.5 the max listed on the data sheet. An odd point here is that waeco models with the cut out switch are set to a max of 11.7. 11.7 is certainly better for the battery than 11.5.

For some reason even with 11.5v my 4 cylinder toyota rav4 will not start in the morning owith a 3 month old costco battery. I am going to have to shell out for a second battery I guess. It would be nice if I could finfd a low voltage cut out circuit or voltage sensing relay that cut out at 12.2v as this would result in the battery lasting twice as many cycles.
 

LandCruiserPhil

Expedition Leader
Lower price. Figures.

For those of you considdering this model the seller seems to have quite a few available.
I did buy one and here are my impresions.
This thing is a cdf-35 customized by waeco mobile solutions for ford.

It has a silly lid with cup holders and a hinge in the middle. The lid with the cup holders along with an insulated plastic wall are screwed in place. This eliminates the dairy compartment. Of course I undid this by removing the all the little screws and filling in the cup holders with polystyrene. I also added a bunch of foam weather sprip to various places on the lid to seal it up air tight.

A few more points this model can not take ac power and has a pig tail with a weathertech connector pre wired. I was able to get the other half of the connector at napa. I ran 8awg low voltage landscape wire and a 10A fuse to the battery. I just have the wire coming out of the trim under the passanger rear door. This is a nice secure low cost sollution.

There are no handles on the sides.

This model has solid metal rails included for bolting it down, which I use and like a lot.

There is no cut off voltage protection switch, it is pre set at 10.5V.

Thanks to another waeco fridge thread on this forum I got the data sheet for the danfoss compressor and controller. With this I re set the cut out voltage to 11.5 the max listed on the data sheet. An odd point here is that waeco models with the cut out switch are set to a max of 11.7. 11.7 is certainly better for the battery than 11.5.

For some reason even with 11.5v my 4 cylinder toyota rav4 will not start in the morning owith a 3 month old costco battery. I am going to have to shell out for a second battery I guess. It would be nice if I could finfd a low voltage cut out circuit or voltage sensing relay that cut out at 12.2v as this would result in the battery lasting twice as many cycles.

Can you post pictures of your mods to the fridge.

A new battery should take care of the starting at low voltage problem. My Land Cruiser has started many times at 10.5 volts (Optima blue top) due to leaving the fridge on.
 

UK4X4

Expedition Leader
dam 1 night

I'd get three days on a Engel in Oman with a 10 min each way comute

that was a 4 cyl toyota 70 series ..

So either its drawing a lot of amps or that batteries shot.

PS with any vehicle i've ever bought I have always bought the biggest battery that would fit in the space available.

Not just the one that matched the car spec- as adding gear means you need a higher capacity
 

Jay H

servicedriven.org
At phil - yes I intend to post pictures at some point. For the next several weeks I will be away from wifi and short on time. I am actually writing this with an android phone from the lava point camp ground in Zion national park. Virgin UT to Kolob reservoir is one of the most scenic drives I have ever done. I cant beleve there is 3G service here.

I went to auto zone the other day and had my battery load tested and it was fine. Its still like brand new, only two months old, but it is a small group 35 size conventional starting battery. Guess I nees another battery or a newer larger dual purpose marine cranking one.

I am trying to keep things cheap sinc I am on a continuing road trip. I wish I had time, tools, and work space to build my own cucustom second battery tray to keep another huge inexpensive brick of lead under the hood. I do already have a really nice 10-15v input multi function programable battery charger. I am looking at smallish 40 to 90 amp hour universal power group agm batteries. The plan is to just charge the battery in the car as I drive and then switch over running off the little agm over nite. I wish a nice group 24 optima/die hard/trojan/ sun extender was cheaper. I hope I dont regret going with a 100 dollar cheap quick fix instead of a 200 - 300 perminant solution.
 

kjp1969

Explorer
This looks like a great alternative to more expensive fridges. Can anyone opine on where Waeco stacks next to the big three or four: ARB, National Luna, Engel, Edgestar?

Doing the math, this looks like a 26qt. model, which is on the small side. Trying to figure out if that will be a problem. . .
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Good deal. Just bought one myself, came to $304.99 with shipping. I'll be just using it for myself so I don't predict the size will be a problem.
 

Jay H

servicedriven.org
I am pretty much posative this model is just a striped down cdf-35. If you dont need the dairy compartment I would just leave the divider in. I am starring to wonder how well mine is really sealing shut with the dairy compartment exposed. I suspect my lid might even be slightly warped. I am thinking I will need a new standard lid with out the hinge in the middle. I did put a reallt bright battery powered light inside in a dark room and before all the foam weather striping I could see light coming out. I am also wondering how well I really insulated the cup holders by jaming styrefoam in. Any one know of a cheap source for lids.
 

proper4wd

Expedition Leader
Just got my Ford/Waeco in from fedex today. Interested in seeing pictures of how you have mounted this thing. I am struggling with the concept... trying to come up with a way to make it quickly removable.

Also curious is you ever ordered a new standard lid from Dometic? If so how much did that run you?
 

Jay H

servicedriven.org
I have not really properly mounted it yet. I am hoping that when I return to phoenix in November for thanksgiving I can pull out my mig welder and make a slider with a quick release for the fridge. At the moment it just sits with the rails bolted on. Its sitting on a ply wood shelf in the back of my Rav4 where the removed rear seats go. It doesn't move around much but a slider would be idea. I also have not made a blanket yet but I put a spare sleeping bag over it at times.
 

spikemd

Explorer
I went to auto zone the other day and had my battery load tested and it was fine. Its still like brand new, only two months old, but it is a small group 35 size conventional starting battery. Guess I nees another battery or a newer larger dual purpose marine cranking one.

I am trying to keep things cheap sinc I am on a continuing road trip.

I would suggest looking into a deep cycle/starting battery. They have enough capacity to start your car but also the benefits of a deep cycle battery to run accessories like your fridge. i can't afford a dual batt system yet, but a standard lead acid battery can't keep up with the draw from a fridge. Also, you will be severely compromising the longevity of your starting battery since they are not made for deep cycling.

I picked up a deep cycle/starting battery from Costco, but you can find them most anywhere they sell auto batteries. The biggest one from Costco only cost around $80 and they have a smaller one available. So far, it has worked great for me and running my 50qt ARB in the Range Rover. The standard lead acid battery (even new) in the 4Runner can't handle the load.

good luck. Nice find. You will love not having soggy food!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,597
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top