Military style trailer modifications and build in VA

[jefhuf]

Hello all. After looking around for a while and debating the option of building from scratch versus buying assembled I finally picked up a military style trailer from a guy in PA and now the fun begins...

some basic specs:
-- 3" C-channel frame with 2.5" drawbar (single piece front to rear) and 2" ball mount
-- 16-18ga (not totally sure) tub with a 1" steel tube frame around the perimeter
-- Fold down tailgate
-- 3500# axle with E-Z lube hubs and 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern and 3 leaf springs (approx 25" long) in a SOA configuration
-- Mombasa 9010 RTT mounted on a 2x4 wood frame bolted to the tub

Frame is 4'x5'-6" and top of tub measures 5'x5'-6"

planned immediate modifications:
-- change drawbar to allow for max coupler (3" tube front to rear) and add A-frame (2x3 tube) in the front to mount nose box and water & propane tank
-- fabricate a hinged lid with standoffs capable of supporting RTT (lid will hinge on the passenger side)
-- fabricate fenders (1.5" tube with sheet metal/expanded metal skin)
-- install rear "bumper" (2x4 tube) with a swing out tire carrier
-- change aluminum rims for standard Jeep steel wheels (this will pull the wheels in approximately 2" because of the backspacing on the aluminum wheels)

future additions:
-- electric trailer brakes
-- possible suspension upgrades/changes depending on ride once trailer is loaded
-- slide out kitchen
-- 12 gallon water tank, 10# propane tank and aluminum nose box
-- yellow top (or similar) with inverter and various 12V & 110V outlets
-- lots of lighting
-- awning

Any input is welcome and thanks in advance for all of the info on this site!

 

[Mark Harley]

Trair build

Looks like a nice trailer.
The only thing I would suggest is a beefier tongue.
The 2 x 2 tube just looks too light for much off road travel.
I would suggest something like this one pictured.
This would give you room for a tongue box that you could use for the battery
and supplies.

 

[jefhuf]

That is the plan! I actually plan to put a 3" tube in that will stop just in front of my nose box and then have a 2 1/2" tube that will slide in (and provide an adjustable nose) with a Max Coupler to connect to the truck. thanks for the comments and keep them coming as I progress!

The only real concern I have about my modifications is that it will probably end up adding a solid 400+ pounds to the trailer. Although, I still suspect that the empty weight should be in the 1000-1200lbs category which is tolerable

 

[jeeper92]

Suscribed

I hope ya make good use out of it. Enjoy

 

[jefhuf]

I have been gathering pieces for my build and trying to spend enough time planning so I won't undo/redo too much! I have decided to put a set of 10" Dexter E-brakes on so they will be going on soon but in the meantime I did change my axle configuration from a SOA to a SUA and installed new u bolts in the process as this is just cheap insurance. I still have approximately 18" of clearance to the tub bottom but this since my lid will add about 8" in height and then the RTT, I wanted to lower it down a little. I also traded out the American Racing aluminum rims (a little too bling for me) in exchange for a set of Jeep steel wheels that I painted black. There is about a 20lb weight penalty here (10lbs/wheel) but I like the look of the steelies much better and also the backspacing will pull the tires in and shrink the overall width of the trailer to just over an inch wider than my D90. In the longterm I may still try to get spacers and run Land Rover wheels but for now, this is the best (and cheapest) option.

I have dedicated most of my time to the body/frame modifications I had planned. I have removed the previously installed center draw bar and replaced it with a 3" tube (.25" wall) that runs continuous front to rear. The max coupler will be mounted in a 2.5" tube that will slide inside of the 3" tube and allow for adjustable positioning with some planned holes to be drilled. Figure I will have a setup to maximize the tongue length for highway use and then at least two additional settings for off road use and then the tongue will be able to slide completely in for storage. As it is, the trailer will be approximately 10' long to the front of the deck (once constructed) so I want to be able to minimize the tongue length as much as possible when it is in the shed. I did however encounter a small problem with this...the weld seam on the tubes. For the max coupler to fit in the 2.5" tube it wasn't too bad and I simply used a long file/rasp to shave the seam down enough for it to fit. I have the same issue with the 3" tube and have not come up with a good solution yet...anyone have any ideas? Unfortunately the 3" tube is already welded into the trailer!

I have not decided what the final finish of the trailer will be but the red paint did not work at all for me so I stripped it and plan to let the trailer live in grey primer while the work is being completed and I consult the boss (wife) on color selection.

I am still finalizing the design of the front end but plan to have a water tank (12 gal), 10lb propane tank and a nose box. Once I finalize and get the dimensions I will cut the 3" tube back but for now, I am leaving it long so there will be no oops moments! I plan to keep the drop down tailgate design but will be adding a swing out tire carrier so I am beefing up the rear corners and replacing the previously installed 1" tube with a 2"x4" tube that will serve as the mounting/latching locations for the carrier but also will be tied into the tube fenders I will be building. You can see the difference in the one photo as I am still working on the first of the two sides. The tailgate had a piece of plywood on the inside and a decorative tin skin on the face...both of these are gone and will soon be replaced with some sheet metal (probably 16 ga) after I add some additional supports and bracing for the hinges and latches.

I still have some bracing to do under the body and, of course, all the work on the front end and fenders but it is heading to a fabricator on Monday to get a lid built for it. I shopped around for a few weeks and finally found someone who meets my criteria for understanding of the desired finish product along with staying within a reasonable budget. I'm keeping my fingers crossed but will post photos of the lid as soon as it is done!

Some questions for the forum...
1) I have looked at a lot of trailers with lids and it seems that there are a bunch of different hinges being used but they all look similar to a heavy duty door hinge. I originally had thought of having something that would be easily removable so I could ust the trailer for utility as well as camping but is this a bad idea? Any particular sources for the "best" hinges? I plan to install 3 on the lid for now...

2) Is there a source for a formula or rule of thumb for the placement and rating of gas struts for the lid? I know I will need to know the finished weight (which I obviously don't have yet) + RTT + anything else I may have mounted up there but didn't know if there was some easy science to the placement of the rods and ends.

3) For latches on the lid, I will be running a couple double locking, pull-action clamps like these at McMaster. http://www.mcmaster.com/#orders/=e69ls6 I see these used a lot but know that they are not lockable and do not see a lot of padlock hasps installed on trailers. What are others using to secure the lid?

 

[jeeper92]

Trailer

Where are ya with the trailer?
Hows she looking?

 

[jefhuf]

Trailer progress has been slow as it seems that it gets pushed to the bottom of the list until about a week or so before each camping trip so I knock out a few things here and there! That being said, attached is a couple of pics of the work I have managed to complete. I re-made the tail gate and skinned it with some 16ga. steel and have installed some spring pin latches instead of the draw latch in the pic. Lid is complete and works great and the tent is very secure when mounted to the cross bars. I have put the expanded metal on the nose area and mounted the nose box and propane tank but still need to make a tire carrier on the rear so I can get the water tank mounted.