Bought an FJ62...

[JEM]

Yes, I would clean up the actual cold start injector.

Remove the CSI, clean it w/carb cleaner & a rag. Replace it & see how it starts. When you loosen the CSI have a rag to collect the fuel that will come out...it will spray a bit, but not enough to worry about. 10 min fix & it solved my similar problem.

John

[John E]

I'll be pulling the CSI out tomorrow if I have time, hope it just needs cleaning.

It's weird that the sensors would test bad and have the injector need cleaning at the same time but it's the only thing that seems at all likely.

Onward...

[John E]

the CSI (cold start injector) was completely filthy, I mean gunked up with some foul deposits of old unleaded fuel and what have you.

Now it's clean and fresh smelling too...

Everything came apart easily enough, went back together easily enough, no blood loss, no broken bolts, no need for the drill and the EZ outs and the Cruiser started like a champ when I was finished so I'm gonna call this a tentative win.

Onward...

[John E]

went to start the FJ this morning, it's a balmy 55 degrees here in SoCal today. It started but it still took 3 attempts and it was idling very rough for the first minute or so. It started easier immediately after I cleaned out the injector yesterday but it was about 20 degrees warmer when I tried it.

I'm not sure what my next step is going to be. Obviously cold starting where I live isn't a huge issue or at least it won't be for the next few months but I have been known to go to places that are colder than where I live and I need it to start all the time, not just when it's warm outside.

To recap, I've replaced the cold start sensor that's attached to the thermostat housing, the old one tested out as dead using 2 different VOM's, I've cleaned all of the various electrical connections for the CSI system and as of yesterday I've removed the actual injector and cleaned it thoroughly. There's a strong smell of gas in the exhaust when I do get it started that seems to have gotten much worse as the starting has gotten harder as well. The idle smoothes out after about a minute or so although it still runs rougher than it should in my opinion. Did a tune up, replaced the wires, plugs, etc and had a valve adjustment done a few months ago

I'm open to any more suggestions or ideas as to what I should check and/or replace next.

[John E]

next repair that is.

Going to take advantage of being out of town on a motorcycle trip next month and have the transfer case rebuilt while I'm gone.

Hoping it won't take more time than the 5-6 weekdays I'll be away.

In the meantime, the warmer weather has given me a break on the hard starting so I've temporarily moved on from that issue and I'm going to focus on the cooling system instead.

Current plan is to replace the hoses, belts, water pump, have the radiator flushed out and repaired at a local shop and then put it all back together with new Toyota red antifreeze and distilled water. The thermostat is only a few months old as are the gaskets so I'll likely leave those as they are. Heading up to Specter later today to pick up a water pump and gasket. The rest of the stuff is already in the garage ready to go.

My plan, as I outlined in a post on Mud is to do an initial flush and drain myself, then drop the radiator off at the shop, come back home, replace the pump and as many of the hoses and belts as I can without the radiator, then button it all up when the radiator is finished. My backup plan(s) would be to have the shop do the whole job with me providing the parts. Worst case scenario is a replacement radiator being needed.

From what I can see in the shop manual, everything I plan on replacing is pretty straight-forward, start at the front, label the various belts and hoses as I take them off and just keep going til I reach the water pump. If anyone has any advice or opinions, I'm all ears.

I'm starting a big commercial job tomorrow that will keep me busy the rest of the week so hopefully I can get this all done either next Saturday or Monday.

I'm planning on completely removing the fan shroud based on some stories I've read here and on Mud, also hoping to have time to replace my leaking oil pan and valve cover gaskets since the Cruiser won't be operational for at least one whole day anyway.

Onward...

[atlcruiser]

This might have been covered before but have you checked for any vac leaks?

Check that you have free passage of air in the vac line from the intake to the fuel pressure regulator. It can get clogged and the regulator will not work correctly.

Remove the cold start and jump it to a battery with jumpers.....make sure it is clicking (Working)

If/when it starts let it run a bit then stick your head in over the ICS. Have a buddy shut the truck off. You should hear a series of clicks form the ICS. that is the stepper motor retracting to the zero position. No ICs tough starts/poor idle.

Remove the main intake hose to the throttle body. Inspect for cracks. Ensure the flapper on the on the inside of the TB closes correctly.

[John E]

Tools of the trade when working on an FJ...

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The start of the blacking out process...

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The typical drivers seat...

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Some of my cool new vacuum tubing...thanks McMaster-Carr.

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The whole thing...

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Hope the pics work...

[Flagster]

I can finally sleep knowing there is actually a truck behind these 9 pages of talk

[John E]

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More to come.

[John E]

sorta.

Drove up to my new favorite shop yesterday and dropped off the FJ with Richard and the guys. They're going to rebuild the transfer case and try to find what's causing my intermittent but also obnoxiously regular "check engine" light issue.

Light comes on pretty much every time I'm on the freeway after about 5-10 miles, can drive all day on surface streets and nothing, Richard thinks it has to do with the O2 sensor. Hopefully he can confirm or deny that while he's got it in his possession.

I was originally thinking about taking it up to Georg at Valley Hybrids for the transfer case work and do a mini road trip at the same time but once I added up the costs of doing that and then added the possibility of needing to go back for any sort of warranty issues I decided to spend the money locally. I'm seriously considering a diesel engine and 5 speed manual swap sometime in the not too distant future and have consulted with Georg about that too so I still might be heading to his shop later.

No pics of the drop-off or the drive up to K&H Imports, sorry...;^)

Now it's time to get on the 2 lane roads to Santa Cruz on the motorcycle, my daughter is graduating from U.C. Santa Cruz on Saturday and I'm combining that event with a 5-6 day road trip on the bike trying to avoid freeways, my planned route has me on 2 lane paved and dirt roads for all but about 20 miles or so.

Onward...