converting a 6x12 utility trailer

wannabridin

New member
hello all. i'm really just a leacher around here, so i'm finally asking for some advice.

i have a 6' x 12' utility trailer that i'd like to convert into a go-anywhere trailer. i'd still like to keep it useful for a utility trailer, but have it be ready for a nice little expedition.

i'm thinking of adding frame supports on the underside, as well as adding in some a-frame style reinforcements on the tongue to the frame. then at least a spring over axle, with axle and spring handling upgrades. i'll probably then go with the tallest tires i can find, but stick with trailer tires as i've heard street tires aren't the best for a trailer.

i'll add some provisions for a camper shell and upper deck, as well as a nice toolbox/propane/jerry can storage pad on the front. i'll keep the tailgate, but make it so it can fold in half to reduce utility wind resistance.

has anyone done anything like this? i can't find any really good threads, but i might have been searching wrong. please feel free to help me out, i appreciate it!!
 

SWITAWI

Doesn't Get Out Enough
Pictures?.. A few shots would go a long towards helping us understand what you're starting with.
:beer:
As for tires, I find that truck tires work fine for most small-to-medium sized trailers, just choose your tires Load Range correctly to avoid problems on the road. Currently my crappy 4'x7' all-metal utility trailer has the same C Load Range LT (Light Truck) tires on it that the previous owner installed, and they work fine for the loads I've carried (probably 2500lbs at most). A lot of people here even have the same bolt pattern on their offroad trailer as their tow vehicle so they can have extra spares in case of a possible emergency in the middle of nowhere. Now if we were talking about a 30ft flatbed that was used to haul a backhoe, I would definitely say there was a need for some G or H Load Range trailer-specific tires.

But on the flip side of that coin never put trailer-specific tires on your truck/car because they're not made to handle the stresses of being on a powered axle or for steering.
 
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wannabridin

New member
here's a picture of what i'm working with so far!

trailer.JPG
 

wannabridin

New member
I think the best way to start is with a spring over axle with heavier duty springs and a reinforced axle. Also adding in the a-frame front sections to strengthen the tongue should help against twisting. I'd really love to get a new suspension for it, using trailing arms and airbags, but that's expensive and complicated! I've thought about using torsion axles, but again, they break down over time.

I think if I add some extra vertical supports, I could put some crossbars on to support a rooftop tent, then enclose the sides eventually for storage and side boxes, etc.

Thoughts?
 

SWITAWI

Doesn't Get Out Enough
Since that tongue is pretty short, and depending on how much box you still want for utility and sleeping space, if you're gonna raise the sides you might consider boxing in the front 3-4ft of the trailer floor for permanent storage. That would still leave you 8ft of floor length for a sheet of plywood (the standard by which all other loads are judged, eh?) or even a queen-sized air mattress for sleeping. A 36"Wx24"Hx60"L storage box with lids/doors on either end would hold a lot of stuff and help keep it clean, dry, and secure on road trips. And considering what you said about 'provisions for a camper shell and upper deck', camper shells are easy to find in 8ft sizes.

Where's our resident custom trailer guru?..

Calling TitanPat...

TrailerSignal.jpg
 
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Titanpat57

Expedition Leader
Since that tongue is pretty short, and depending on how much box you still want for utility and sleeping space, if you're gonna raise the sides you might consider boxing in the front 3-4ft of the trailer floor for permanent storage. That would still leave you 8ft of floor length for a sheet of plywood (the standard by which all other loads are judged, eh?) or even a queen-sized air mattress for sleeping. A 36"Wx24"Hx60"L storage box with lids/doors on either end would hold a lot of stuff and help keep it clean, dry, and secure on road trips. And considering what you said about 'provisions for a camper shell and upper deck', camper shells are easy to find in 8ft sizes.

Where's our resident custom trailer guru?..

Calling TitanPat...

TrailerSignal.jpg

lol...you're a friggin whacko!!!


God I've been dying to do one of these over SWITAWI...you been reading my mind again!!


Well wannabridin...I think the first stop is springs and axle, so you're right on there.

Beefing the tongue...yep..right on!

This is where the creative juices start to flow:coffeedrink:

When I look at these 6 x 12's...I see to fold down beds, one on either side (the type they do on some of the toyhaulers) that fold out, and kind of look like a pop up bed...I also see a pop up roof...in the front would be a nice pull out kitchen.

I have a design based off a M116 (which is 6 x8)on my home computer, but it blew the power supply, so it's getting fixed now. Let me do a quick SU...brb..
 

wannabridin

New member
Ok, so what type of suspension is best? I really like the idea of a trailing arm and it doesn't seem too terribly difficult to fab one up. Only thing I don't like is the possibility to lose camber with it, but if the front of the arm mounts solid, there shouldn't be any flex with that...

Any thoughts (other than price) on trailing arm vs SoA and adding some shocks? Any helpful information on how to setup a TA suspension? Thanks again guys!!
 

biere

Observer
I have a slightly different trailer I share with my uncle.

The tailgate on ours is a structural piece with how it secures in the up position and when loading it spreads the load out.

Early on I wondered about messing with it in the future but as I have studied the trailer and we have used it for this and that I have seen how it functions. Basically I agree on cutting it down but keeping the bottom set up as is for the reasons mentioned above.

I would probably do a spring over axle conversion and add shocks just because it gets you the height you want and you can work on other mods as you go from there. I don't think it costs much to do a spring over axle properly, I would use new u bolts and what not and the welding and shocks are something to consider depending on who you have do that.

I think the air bags and trailing arms would allow for more load variations while still riding decently.

The game with little leaf spring packs is they don't always handle major load variations that well. When messing with fullsize vehicles, like a full size truck, the leaf pack can be made to ride ok when unloaded and then as it gets loaded the pack settles and more leaf springs help carry the load.

The stock leaf springs on my trailer seem abrupt as all get out so I see why some folks go with longer leaf springs from smaller vehicles and what not.

I will check in to see what others recomend and how things go.

Since I share the one trailer I decided to just buy another trailer used and modify it.

It will mostly be a utility trailer and the spring over axle conversion will get it to tow with no drop hitch needed on my grand cherokee I hope. At the least I won't need the drop hitch I have now which is a heck of a big drop.

I am still reading up on having brakes on a single axle application but depending on weight I am somewhat considering it since what I buy might need an axle upgrade and if buying an axle I can get brakes for not much money and the grand cherokee has everything wired up already I believe.

Just some random thoughts from reading I have been doing lately.
 

wannabridin

New member
I agree with the ease and price of doing a SoA, I just think the trailing arm is really cool!

I'm thinking of getting some bigger leafs (longer) and adding either shocks or airbags under the leafs, as they would help with washout and keeping it from bouncing as much
 

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