4 season camper project

[Korpisoturi]

Hello Janne,

I have a similar project going on in southern Finland. I'll try to get the cabin started this summer and you are welcome to have a look if you want.

[ianc]

Have you seen this: http://www.xor.org.uk/silkroute/equipment/choosevan.htm

The guy covers the insulation calculations etc and gives pointers to further reading.

A couple of other observations.
1) Would a sandwich construction not be better instead of a steel frame such as this: http://www.ormocar.de/en/sandwichplatten/
No cold bridges and lighter.

2) I'd stayaway from a diesel cooker particularly if your going to be operating on cold tempratures or high altitude. They're also expensive and a pain in the bum to use. Gas just works.

3) Depending on the fridge you're intending to use - I'm not sure a fuel cell would be up to running it. Depending on your driving/stoppnig patterns then a compressor fridge + good alternator + ability to charge from 220v when available might be a better bet.

[Gentleman]

Hello everyone,

small update.

I have quite serious issues with my back that have taken priority.

I have been:
1) working on different ways make the living "box" work. (I am working with assumption that (outside) measurements of 200cm(W) * 400cm(L) * 210cm(H) would not bee too far off the mark. Length might be the upper limit ?.
2) worked out a list of my needs (ranked: basic requirement; desireable and bonus).

3) I do not have welding option (or only minor work if I can arrange anything) so I will have to order the basic metal frame (&sub-frame) from some company

I think I will test some things out by gearing my stationwagon up a bit to accomodate me on summer trips.

Fridge & Freaser will play a major role. Key issue for me will be the insulation/efficiency (so that the strain on power will be less). I will aim for self sufficiency so charging from outside source is something I do not wish to hunt for. I think I would prefer coffin type of fridge & freezer (where lid opens up) since to my understanding that keeps the cold air in better.

Washing: Dose anyone have experience of Ion washingmashines that can also work without water?
(sorry the page is in Finnish http://www.verkkokauppa.com/fi/produ...sh-TD62-L703HC )
(eng youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_CPcYH7CfM)
I do not think that waterless wash can remove heavy stais - I just wonder what it will do to a ahem.. well worn t-shirt etc.. and how the clothes will fare if waterless wash is used for extended periods?

How do people handle MOT/yearly inspection of car <> extended periods of travel. This could mean that you can't have the car inspected before planned trip and it will expire while you are traveling? Just drive and hope nobody will check it?

Thank you for the links Ian - lot better stuff there than in the shop I found here! Yes I am planning to use sandwich type of materials as much as I can. I think sub frame will have to be quite heavy steel and I think I will want to use (smaller)steel atleast in each corner (to increase stability)

Remember to enjoy the summer!

With kind regards, Janne

[rblackwell]

Yearly inspection/MOT - one of the advantages of living in the US is that it is possible to register a vehicle at an address that does not require yearly inspections.

In any case most US states/regions that do require inspection allow for "inspection on return" and will renew plates/tabs/registration in absentia.

I heard from Elizabeth that Australia (forgotten which state) requires "inspection by suitably qualified mechanic" - you can just imagine what a hassle the phrase "suitably qualified" would turn into.

We spent a year in South America and NO-ONE ever looked at the registration tabs (in the US each year you put a tab about 1-2" square on the corner of a license plate) and we showed the vehicle Title document whenever asked for documents - not the registration. So there was never an expiry date on any documents.

For our next trip we have registered our truck in South Dakota - never need to even go there, all done by mail and no inspection.

Interested to hear about the practices in other countries.

[Gentleman]

Small steps on both fronts:

"Dacia" will get a portable fridge/freezer. Plan is to re-use this in "proper camper".
http://www.nationalluna.com/weekender50.htm is my current front runner. with £ 950.
+ very good electricity options.
+ batery guard etc as standard.
? I do not know how easy it is to install into a station wagon. (wiring etc)
http://www.engelaustralia.com.au/cgi...p&item_string= is the alternative
-- battery guard is optional extra (=more clutter)
-- single temperature zone
+ reliability

Link to article I found extremely helpful http://www.expeditionportal.com/reso...ge-review.html
Any comments or other (better?) canditates?

With both canditates I will need a dual battery setup to my dacia. I fear I will need solar panel or similar alternative electricity source. While I know that dual battery wiring is relatively easy, I do not yet know how it is done or what is the best way to do it. (links to good introduction or guides for newbie please?). One option is to hand the job over to a garage -- I just rather would learn to do it myself. I do not know if that would be digging a hole for myself with MOT.

"Proper camper"
I think my best options are:
* unimog U1300L/37 w. Fast axel
* unimog U1300L/37 w. standard axel
* unimog U1550L/37 w. either heavy axel option. These are the cars I will measure other possible cars to.

(?) is campervan weight measured (total max weight - when registering) with water storage filled up? I guess they are because (as with fuel) car MUST be able to handle the load. .. this would indicate that the waste water tank would be filled too (??). I guess I will have to get a membership in our national motoring association to gain the access to legal help. U1550L/37 would be the safe bet due to bigger payload.. hmm..

If I were to forget the offroad capabilities.. I guess I would be looking at fuel efficiency as thing to gain. Would there be major savings ? ..I mean .. how much better the MPG or L/100KM figures could be on strictly "road truck" of the same payload capability compared to unimog traveling on the same road. Traveling at economical / leisure pace.


Unimog 1550: 16.8–23.5 l/100 km 10–14 mpg ( no solid source for reference - is this in the ballpark? )
Fuel Economy U1300: 17.5l - 19l / 100 km 12.5 - 14 mpg (from: http://www.unimogcentre.com/unimog435specs.html )

Janne

[Gentleman]

Greetings,

I have taken a closer look at electrical needs for the 'proper camper'. I have a sleep apnea and I use device while I sleep to gain better life quality. Tricky part is that this device uses a lot of power (it uses brute force to moisturize water). Specific information is not available for my specific combination of factors. My educated estimate is that it uses 160Ah on 12V DC (run through converter to 220V AC) per night. As I try to sleep while using it running a generator is not really an option.

This means two things...
I need frigging huge leisure battery (add another devices .. double to accommodate for 50% max drain on battery)
I need to generate a lot of power to charge the batteries.. Generator is already planned.. Now I am getting worried about the hours it needs to run..

I intend to include solar panels..
I think I will have to raise the priority of wind generator ...

Do people have experience on installing them on rv / expedition class vehicles?

Main issues I struggle with are..
How to accommodate a wind generator in rv so that it is 'packed' nicely while traveling and 'raised' with little/ moderate effort while parked? Many of the turbines seem to be 3+ blade designs which mean that the 'packed' volume is big (? is this assumption correct?)
Where and How to install the mast so that it will be secure? I am going for raised roof design so attaching the mast to the upper part of cabin is not really an option. Would moderate sized wind turbine be enough to rock the camper box in moderate/ heavy winds?

With kind regards,
Janne

[ianc]

I could never really see a case for one of these before. But given you need silent generation of power at night whether it's windy or not, it might be a runner.

http://www.efoy-comfort.com/technical-data

[biggoolies]

Hi Janne:
You can usually use your cpap machine without the humidifier. The humidifier uses alot of electricity. The cpap machine itself does not. That is what I do. It is not as comfortable but you may be surprised. If I can do it, probably anybody else can stand it. :-)

Greetings,

I have taken a closer look at electrical needs for the 'proper camper'. I have a sleep apnea and I use device while I sleep to gain better life quality. Tricky part is that this device uses a lot of power (it uses brute force to moisturize water). Specific information is not available for my specific combination of factors. My educated estimate is that it uses 160Ah on 12V DC (run through converter to 220V AC) per night. As I try to sleep while using it running a generator is not really an option.

This means two things...
I need frigging huge leisure battery (add another devices .. double to accommodate for 50% max drain on battery)
I need to generate a lot of power to charge the batteries.. Generator is already planned.. Now I am getting worried about the hours it needs to run..

I intend to include solar panels..
I think I will have to raise the priority of wind generator ...

Do people have experience on installing them on rv / expedition class vehicles?

Main issues I struggle with are..
How to accommodate a wind generator in rv so that it is 'packed' nicely while traveling and 'raised' with little/ moderate effort while parked? Many of the turbines seem to be 3+ blade designs which mean that the 'packed' volume is big (? is this assumption correct?)
Where and How to install the mast so that it will be secure? I am going for raised roof design so attaching the mast to the upper part of cabin is not really an option. Would moderate sized wind turbine be enough to rock the camper box in moderate/ heavy winds?

With kind regards,
Janne

[AeroNautiCal]

I would use the LE-v50 Vertical Axis Wind Turbine, made by the UK specialist, Leading Edge Turbines, whose website is here.

The LE-v50 wind turbine is a robust and reliable 50W vertical axis wind turbine for boats which can also be used in a variety of other battery charging applications. LE-v50 wind turbines have been used to protect batteries from losing voltage and also for less energy intensive applications such as weather monitoring stations. Due to the high quality materials and rugged design, it is able to operate in the harshest of environments, and is often used in the Arctic and Antarctic.

Available in 12V, 24V and 48V.

[talltony]

I would use the LE-v50 Vertical Axis Wind Turbine,

That's a very expensive trickle charger with such a low output that I can't see it making much difference in this case.

Tony