Land Rover Pop Up Axles?

[jscusmcvet]

Wife and I recently purchased a 2005 Rockwood Pop up camper and a 97 Land Rover Discovery to pull it. I would like to modify the camper to use the same bolt pattern and 32" tire that I have on the Land Rover. Is the best way to pull a LR axle fromt he junk yard and use it (even possible?) or is there another way to make that modification? I am an experienced wheeler and home mechainic and feel like I can take care of the clearance issues for the wheels and tires, but would like some help on axle ideas.

Thanks,

John

 

[wjeeper]

Do Land Rovers use a different bolt pattern? And arent they full floating axles in the rear?

I seem to remember that they are......but honestly I have no experence with rovers.........if they are as I remember you could buy a rear axle (minus the shafts and 3rd member to keep costs down) cut the axle tubes so that the spindle and hub were still attached and then sleeve them with tubing. Basically you would be making a strait axle with Land Rover ends. If that makes any sense at all?

However that wouldnt really give you provisions for brakes.

Another idea that comes to mind is run wheel adapters on a commercially available trailer axle. I know wheel adaptors exist to get you from a Rover bolt pattern, but I dont know if they are available the other way around....

Just throwing ideas out there. Dont know if its of any use.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Wife and I recently purchased a 2005 Rockwood Pop up camper and a 97 Land Rover Discovery to pull it. I would like to modify the camper to use the same bolt pattern and 32" tire that I have on the Land Rover. Is the best way to pull a LR axle fromt he junk yard and use it (even possible?) or is there another way to make that modification? I am an experienced wheeler and home mechainic and feel like I can take care of the clearance issues for the wheels and tires, but would like some help on axle ideas.

Thanks,

John

Have you googled your lug pattern and trailer axle lug patterns to see if they match?

 

[Mark Harley]

Here is my thoughts, The front hub on most vehicles have a style of hub that has the bearings and hub face all as one unit and mount with 4 bolts to the steering spindle.

Find a pair of matching hubs new or used from a rover.
Have a fab shop cut out 1/2" plate steel with the correct mounting template to match the mounting surface of the hub then have an axle tube made to your specs.

It would be best if you found a shop with a laser or plasma table to cut it out.

Mark Harley

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Adapters.... they are all of 100.00 for two, bolt on and are all but idiot proof.

 

[Banzai Jimmy]

You could pull a RRC/D1 rear end from a 'yard, leave the axle shafts and center section (would bring the price down), which would give you a full floater rear end with brakes. You could grab a couple of the front axle flanges with the rubber cap to seal up the rear hub (stock D1 axles have the flange built in) and make a cover/plate to seal up the housing where the 3rd member resided. Chop off the coil bucket mounts and modify aftermarket leaf spring pad to fit the housing (assuming the trailer has leaf springs).

If the width worked, then it should be fairly easy.

 

[Dendy Jarrett]

Pull your two hubs. Send them to ToddCo Suspensions in Alabama along with DI studs (from rovers north). They will press out old studs. Re-drill your hubs, and press in the new studs. Around $100 for the two for labor from ToddCo- Whatever the studs cost from Rovers North and shipping.
That is what I did to my Conqueror.
D

 

[jscusmcvet]

Awesome replies guys. Thanks for the ideas.

 

[d110pickup]

I wanted to use LR wheels on my trailer project also but I approached the problem a bit differently.
I procured an old D1 rear axle complete with hubs. Disassembled the whole mess and drug out the plasma cutter. I removed the forged outer flanges from the rest of the housing while leaving myself enough material to grind down to the flange. If you look at a LR housing this will make sense.
There is a machined ID on the flange that measured (on mine) 2 5/8 dia. I bought a length of 2 5/8 od x .120 wall DOM tube.
Next I used a sanding drum on the ID of the flange to open the hole so the tube was a very snug fit.
I then set up a simple jig on the weld table (just two large angle plates squared to each other) to ensure the outer flange (where the stub axle bolts) was perpendicular to the tube and parallel to each other. I tacked the three pieces together and made sure everything was square & parallel before welding solid.

The end result is an axle that uses LR wheels, bearings, seals, and even the brake discs and calipers if I choose go with a surge brake system. I like that the commonality of spares.
I'm also positive that the LR stub axle and bearings are much larger than a typical trailer hub.
I hope this helps.
Mike