Page 1 of 13 12311 ... LastLast

Thread: Light weight rock crawler trailer

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    441

    Default Light weight rock crawler trailer

    Am building a trailer capable of making it through the Rubicon Trail.

    I plan to build a removable box, with slide out kitchen.

    The box will be 70" X 48". I'll do a tailgate door and a hinged top.

    I think I'm going to make my own stove. I like the Partner stoves, but want more power.

    I've purchase a light weight 10 lb. propane tank LINK

    Flojet Quiet Quad pump for sink and shower LINK.

    EMPI Volkwagen (lowered) front shocks: LINK

    Max Coupler.

    I'm going to run a small 12 volt battery on the trailer and charge it through a 6 way trailer plug.

    Found a light weight white polymer trailer tongue box: LINK

    Plastic coated, self coiling safety chains: LINK

    Heavy duty stainless steel hinges, with full bearing design: LINK (Home Depot)

    Stainless sink: LINK (IKEA)

    I modified (shortened) a cargo bar that I purchased from Harbor Freight LINK to support the fold out galley. It's got well over a foot of adjust-ability for when the trailer is not parked on level ground.

    Campchef water heater - The mounts are not very strong, so I strapped it with large zip-ties. The head has too much flow and I don't really like the water valve on it, so I'm going to be changing those parts out.

    I purchased a Sea-Dog LINK switch panel with 5 switches and a cigarette lighter socket LINK

    I wasn't happy with any of the sleeping pads that I could find, so I made my own. I purchased some nylon cloth and had some foam cut to 2.5" thick. Figured with all the new room, I'd have space to store large sleeping pads. Figured wrong. I'm just a little tight on space and will be enlarging the lid on the trailer.

    I purchased a Teflon coated nestable cookware set by Magma Products LINK Nicey but pricey. I felt these are well worth the dough as cleaning them out on the trail is much easier than non-Teflon coated pots and pans. This is a VERY high quality set. One issue though. The piece on the side of each pot, where the handle attaches is pretty sharp. I'm certain that these parts would scratch the Teflon coating in each of the pots. To fix this, I purchased some heavy felt and cut out two pieces that fit in the pots accordingly.


    To do list:
    Build and install stove
    Misc. plumbing and electrical to clean things up



    What I would have done differently. (Will keep updating this as the project moves along)

    Would have added brakes - Could still do it.
    The kitchen counter is 24" deep. The sink determines the minimum depth (20") and I should have gone with that.
    Given how much money I spent on spray paint, I would have at least got a bid on powder coating. To me, powder coating would be worth an extra couple hundred bucks. Maybe more.


    4/5 After powder coating


    July. 2012 Galley Video:



    10/21 Current Pics:



    Last edited by Woods; 08-20-2012 at 07:49 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    4,995
    Um, wow!
    TreadLightly! Trainer
    KI6PFO
    Off Road Photography: www.nwoods.smugmug.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843
    I may be way off base as I haven't rock crawled with a trailer but having it too light you may find that it will tend to jump around. I would imagine that some weight and substance in the trailer would mean it would "work" itself on the obstacles alot better.

    Will be keen to see how it turns out though, always interesting to see purpose built trailers evolve

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Hemet, SoCal
    Posts
    316
    those small co's don't look like they'd carry much weight... air bags ?

    will be neat to see where this goes

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    441
    Quote Originally Posted by grimbo View Post
    I may be way off base as I haven't rock crawled with a trailer but having it too light you may find that it will tend to jump around. I would imagine that some weight and substance in the trailer would mean it would "work" itself on the obstacles alot better.

    Will be keen to see how it turns out though, always interesting to see purpose built trailers evolve
    Weight is everything on the rocks. I've wheeled with guys hauling trailers before and we are continually amazed at the effects of pulling dead weight.


    Quote Originally Posted by TacoDell View Post
    those small co's don't look like they'd carry much weight... air bags ?

    will be neat to see where this goes
    You are correct. In the old config, 170 lbs. on the back of the trailer bottomed out the suspension. I ditched those coil overs and am changing to air bags and shocks.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Ramona Ca.
    Posts
    40
    cool little trailer! you didn't happen to buy it in the El Cajon / Santee area did you?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    441
    Sure did - off of Craigslist


    Quote Originally Posted by High Country Hillbilly View Post
    cool little trailer! you didn't happen to buy it in the El Cajon / Santee area did you?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Ramona Ca.
    Posts
    40
    Thought so...saw it on CL myself. Have fun with it!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brea, CA USA
    Posts
    100

    Default tongue

    Great idea on the trailer. I really really like it, I think it will work great at 500lbs. I know you aren't done and I might be jumping the gun... but the only thing I would add is I would beef up the tongue area at the front of the box. When you weld to the front of the frame it makes for a not as strong tongue as going under and attaching at both frame rails AND the front rail. This isn't as big of a concern because you are going so light. It is a concern when you have those wheels dropped off a ledge and are pulling at them from every angle. Your trailer is going to see an unusual amount of side loading on the tongue. Glad to see you are building an "a frame" tongue. I am really curious to see how this comes out. I need to build a lighter smaller trailer to pull off road behind my jeep. I will be following your build, good luck!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Orange County, Ca.
    Posts
    441
    I'm planning to weld in some tongue box cross members today. I'll then post a picture of what I've done to attach to the frame. Will be interested to see if you thinks it's enough, or if I should add to it.


    Quote Originally Posted by JeepDork View Post
    Great idea on the trailer. I really really like it, I think it will work great at 500lbs. I know you aren't done and I might be jumping the gun... but the only thing I would add is I would beef up the tongue area at the front of the box. When you weld to the front of the frame it makes for a not as strong tongue as going under and attaching at both frame rails AND the front rail. This isn't as big of a concern because you are going so light. It is a concern when you have those wheels dropped off a ledge and are pulling at them from every angle. Your trailer is going to see an unusual amount of side loading on the tongue. Glad to see you are building an "a frame" tongue. I am really curious to see how this comes out. I need to build a lighter smaller trailer to pull off road behind my jeep. I will be following your build, good luck!

Page 1 of 13 12311 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •