What is the correct orientation of wheel bearing oil seals, D110

[gm13]

The pic on the left, which I found on the web or on the right, which is the way the old one was oriented though it needs to go in further to its seat. I'm naturally inclined to put it in the way it was but who knows, might have been put in backwards last time. The manual doesn't clearly show orientation but it seems to be with spring band up.

Thanks,
Gene

 

[Patman]

spring on the inside (towards the "fluid" being sealed) pretty much always.

You want the fluid being sealed to be "pushing" down on the seal lip

 

[ini88]

Patman is right. Also needs to be set 4mm deep. I know this sounds ridiculous to figure out, but an easy trick to to is knock it in with the inner side of your hub flange. That is 7mm deep and hits it in nice and straight, just hit it in about half way

 

[Hill Bill E.]

Yep, the spring should face the grease/gear lube.

I prefer using a large socket, or a an appropriate sized piece of pipe, and a dead blow hammer.

It's easier to watch the progress this way as opposed to using the flange. But both will get the seal installed square.

 

[gm13]

Great, thanks guys.

 

[Antichrist]

If that's the RTC3511 seal (which it looks like, but sorta hard to tell) there are two springs.

The one on top OD, and one on the inside on the bottom.
The OD spring is to prevent contaminant ingress, the ID spring is to prevent oil/grease egress (and is oriented towards the bearings).

They are placed like this

Then recessed 4mm (I use the drive member method as shown in the photo of mine that ini88 linked to, but a pipe of the right diameter, or an old bearing outer race, works well also)

If using the drive member for recessing them don't drive it all the way down otherwise the seal will be too deep.

On a side note, it looks like from the photo that there's some rust on the inner race of the inner bearing. If that's what it is, I'd be leery of not replacing that bearing. Even though it's not a "bearing" surface, it points to a poorly maintained bearing so there's likely other imperfections where it matters.

 

[gm13]

If that's the RTC3511 seal (which it looks like, but sorta hard to tell) there are two springs.

Then recessed 4mm (I use the drive member method as shown in the photo of mine that ini88 linked to, but a pipe of the right diameter, or an old bearing outer race, works well also)

On a side note, it looks like from the photo that there's some rust on the inner race of the inner bearing. If that's what it is, I'd be leery of not replacing that bearing. Even though it's not a "bearing" surface, it points to a poorly maintained bearing so there's likely other imperfections where it matters.

It is the RTC3511G and the drive member is what I used to set it also, works well in lieu of the correct size socket or pipe.

The bearings/races are new Timkens, I agree it looks like rust in the photo but it isn't.
The old bearings, seals, grease and swivel pins looked fine. I think the main issue was the hub adjusting nut was too loose. I replaced all the bearings/seals/pins and swivel ball on the one side anyway. Passenger side fun next.

Thanks again

 

[sturgillk]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but what will happen to someone if they hypothetically set the seal all the way down.....?

 

[454]

Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but what will happen to someone if they hypothetically set the seal all the way down.....?

https://youtu.be/M0v0xxN3-gA

 

[sturgillk]

Looks like I'm going to have a busy weekend then.

 

[Antichrist]

Even if the earth doesn't explode but merely falls out of orbit, the seal is unlikely to seat properly on the stub axle distance piece and so end up leaking.