Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit
- Thread starter jscherb
- Start date
jscherb
Expedition Leader
About two weeks ago I posted this drawing of a design for a DIY under $50 3-axis coupler (post 404):
Over the last few days I built the coupler pretty much as designed, and this morning I did a little test...
I chained the trailer end of the 3-Axis to the jack and lifted the back tires of the Retro Wrangler off the ground. The Retro weighs a bit more than a standard Wrangler, so this is probably about a 2000 pound lift, which is 4x the weight of the my unloaded trailer (6x the weight of a base model Dinoot with no accessories), and almost 3 times the weight of the my trailer with the tent platform and tent. I'm confident the coupler can handle much more weight than this, but I don't have a safe way here to test with any more.
Good enough for me. Now I can paint it
.
Over the last few days I built the coupler pretty much as designed, and this morning I did a little test...
I chained the trailer end of the 3-Axis to the jack and lifted the back tires of the Retro Wrangler off the ground. The Retro weighs a bit more than a standard Wrangler, so this is probably about a 2000 pound lift, which is 4x the weight of the my unloaded trailer (6x the weight of a base model Dinoot with no accessories), and almost 3 times the weight of the my trailer with the tent platform and tent. I'm confident the coupler can handle much more weight than this, but I don't have a safe way here to test with any more.
Good enough for me. Now I can paint it
.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Here are some photos of the completed 3-Axis coupler in primer.
First a close-up, in this photo you can see the two grease fittings, one is near the tongue of the trailer and lubes the longitudinal axis (twist), and the other is at the ball mount and lubes the left-right axis. I didn't put a grease fitting on the up-down axis (the t-coupler), because that's how it's coupled/uncoupled and it would be easy to manually grease (or not) as you please.
For comparison, the ball coupler:
Here are two shots showing how easy it is to couple due to the "cradle" my friend JD suggested, this wasn't in the original design drawing - in this first photo you can see the cradle inside the base which will hole the t-coupler:
All you do is set the t-coupler into the cradle, then you can easily slip the hitch pin in place without having to hold the tongue of the trailer in position. Very easy to couple.
First a close-up, in this photo you can see the two grease fittings, one is near the tongue of the trailer and lubes the longitudinal axis (twist), and the other is at the ball mount and lubes the left-right axis. I didn't put a grease fitting on the up-down axis (the t-coupler), because that's how it's coupled/uncoupled and it would be easy to manually grease (or not) as you please.
For comparison, the ball coupler:
Here are two shots showing how easy it is to couple due to the "cradle" my friend JD suggested, this wasn't in the original design drawing - in this first photo you can see the cradle inside the base which will hole the t-coupler:
All you do is set the t-coupler into the cradle, then you can easily slip the hitch pin in place without having to hold the tongue of the trailer in position. Very easy to couple.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I also did a little "twist test". The coupler of course could have kept going until the trailer flipped over, but my jack was getting a little precarious so I stopped before it was likely to slip off the cinder block, it was risky enough at this angle. I'm using the nerf bar as a handy jack point.
The coupler in that twisted position:
Even though I haven't finished painting the coupler, I think I can declare the coupler project a success.
If people are interested, I'll update the design drawing to reflect the "as built" coupler and get it posted.
The coupler in that twisted position:
Even though I haven't finished painting the coupler, I think I can declare the coupler project a success.
If people are interested, I'll update the design drawing to reflect the "as built" coupler and get it posted.
AeroNautiCal
Explorer
^^ Elegantly Simple & Simply Elegant!
Backroad Explorer
Adventurer
Nice Job Jeff :sombrero:
Now it's time to start gathering parts for my own!!
Now it's time to start gathering parts for my own!!
jscherb
Expedition Leader
Your own trailer or your own 3-axis coupler? :wavey:
Backroad Explorer
Adventurer
Both
Already started on the trailer. Next is the coupler parts.
Already started on the trailer. Next is the coupler parts.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I'm trying to finalize the fiberglass tonneau cover design, specifically the latches.
One solution I'm thinking about for the latching/locking is a pair of t-handles like this:
These would use a striker pin which would bolt to the edge of the tub:
Other than the fact that the striker parts would have to be manufactured custom for this application, I like this t-handle design. I'd be happier if I could find a completely off-the-shelf solution which wouldn't require custom parts though. I'm posting this to see if you guys have any better ideas than these t-handles for latching and locking the cover.
I've considered external draw latches, like the ones shown below, but when the cover would be installed on a Wrangler (or a trailer tub with Wrangler hinges for the tailgate) on the passenger side the Wrangler's tailgate hinges compete for the same real estate on the tub... I haven't found any that would work and clear the hinge (and there's even less room on the tub for the catch when an Exogate is installed). External draw latches like these would also require a padlock, but the t-handles include a an integrated lock. Another good thing about the t-handles is that if you were using a t-handle on your tailgate, the tailgate and tonneau could use the same key.
Also, I'm still playing with the placement of the ribs a little... in the drawing below, the driver's side latch mounting area lines up with the center of the tail light. On the passenger side, the latch mounting area is at the edge of the tailgate opening. It's just a cosmetic thing, haven't decided which I like best yet.
Another option I'm considering is mounting latches on the inside... no lock would be required, since the locked tailgate would prevent access to these latches. The only drawback to this plan is that you couldn't use a factory CJ tailgate with it's internal latches along with the tonneau, because both would have internal latches. You'd have to use an external-latch/lock tailgate, either a fiberglass Dinoot kit tailgate or a Wrangler tailgate. As long as we're willing to accept that you couldn't use this with a factory CJ inside latch tailgate, I like this idea a lot:
One solution I'm thinking about for the latching/locking is a pair of t-handles like this:
These would use a striker pin which would bolt to the edge of the tub:
Other than the fact that the striker parts would have to be manufactured custom for this application, I like this t-handle design. I'd be happier if I could find a completely off-the-shelf solution which wouldn't require custom parts though. I'm posting this to see if you guys have any better ideas than these t-handles for latching and locking the cover.
I've considered external draw latches, like the ones shown below, but when the cover would be installed on a Wrangler (or a trailer tub with Wrangler hinges for the tailgate) on the passenger side the Wrangler's tailgate hinges compete for the same real estate on the tub... I haven't found any that would work and clear the hinge (and there's even less room on the tub for the catch when an Exogate is installed). External draw latches like these would also require a padlock, but the t-handles include a an integrated lock. Another good thing about the t-handles is that if you were using a t-handle on your tailgate, the tailgate and tonneau could use the same key.
Also, I'm still playing with the placement of the ribs a little... in the drawing below, the driver's side latch mounting area lines up with the center of the tail light. On the passenger side, the latch mounting area is at the edge of the tailgate opening. It's just a cosmetic thing, haven't decided which I like best yet.
Another option I'm considering is mounting latches on the inside... no lock would be required, since the locked tailgate would prevent access to these latches. The only drawback to this plan is that you couldn't use a factory CJ tailgate with it's internal latches along with the tonneau, because both would have internal latches. You'd have to use an external-latch/lock tailgate, either a fiberglass Dinoot kit tailgate or a Wrangler tailgate. As long as we're willing to accept that you couldn't use this with a factory CJ inside latch tailgate, I like this idea a lot:
loren85022
Explorer
Anything internal, especially with the rotating arm would seem vulnerable to luggage shift interference. What about the spring-loaded t-handles found on the hood of jeeps? They'd be annoying if you wanted to go topless unless they were removable, or you reverse mounted them with the T on the top, and you pulled it down to connect to a point on the body.
Sent from my iToaster
Sent from my iToaster
jscherb
Expedition Leader
When the t-handle is locked, the cam cannot move.
Jeep hood latches don't lock, so cargo wouldn't be secure. Also in the case where a TJ tailgate was installed (or a fiberglass kit tailgate installed with TJ hinges), there wouldn't be enough space on the driver's side of the back of the tub to mount the catch for those latches because the hinge would be in the way, so to use that style latch they would have to be mounted on the side of the tub. I'm trying to keep the latch solution to the back of the tub.
I'm also designing this fiberglass tonneau so it can be used on a half-cab Jeep, so the ideal solution will be one that doesn't require drilling the tub, and doesn't have latches on the tub side, which wouldn't look so nice on a Jeep.
Last edited:
Calin.Macrinici
Observer
I'm trying to finalize the fiberglass tonneau cover design, specifically the latches.
One solution I'm thinking about for the latching/locking is a pair of t-handles like this: [...]
I've considered external draw latches, like the ones shown below, but when the cover would be installed on a Wrangler (or a trailer tub with Wrangler hinges for the tailgate) on the passenger side the Wrangler's tailgate hinges compete for the same real estate on the tub... I haven't found any that would work and clear the hinge (and there's even less room on the tub for the catch when an Exogate is installed). External draw latches like these would also require a padlock, but the t-handles include a an integrated lock. Another good thing about the t-handles is that if you were using a t-handle on your tailgate, the tailgate and tonneau could use the same key.
Moving the latches from the rear to the side (towards the rear, just behind your rack supports) would solve the problem with both the tailgate hinges and the stop lights -- and should be as strong as if mounted in the rear. I think the draw latches are better than the t-handles; they don't look nicer (the t-handles win there) but I believe they lock better.
jscherb
Expedition Leader
I don't want to do that because I don't think that will look good for the half-cab application - I don't think latches will look good on the side of a Jeep, I think they would look best in the back. Also I'm trying to avoid requiring drilling the Jeep tub for the latches, I'd like the tonneau to be able to be installed without drilling - external draw latches would require drilling. As long as I have to solve those problems for the half cab application, I want to use the same solution for the trailer. The t-handle as I've drawn it and the inside draw latch can be used without drilling the tub, and both work on the back.
