Bolt-together fiberglass Jeep-tub trailer kit

**Black Dog** · 10-11-2011, 04:29 PM

I think I might strongly consider this trailer when it becomes available.

I do have one idea that would improve on it. The trailer is a little shallow, it matches the depth of a jeep tub but it would be nice to have higher sides. So maybe some sort of an optional aluminum railing that would raise the height of the sides a bit would be nice.

**jscherb** · 10-11-2011, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by kc0tma

I think I might strongly consider this trailer when it becomes available.

I do have one idea that would improve on it. The trailer is a little shallow, it matches the depth of a jeep tub but it would be nice to have higher sides. So maybe some sort of an optional aluminum railing that would raise the height of the sides a bit would be nice.

I've had two thoughts on ways to raise the sides:

1. I'm considering doing optional stake pockets on the inside of the tub; you could use those to mount side boards to raise the height of the sides.

2. Riser panels could easily be made by using just the top 6" (or whatever) of the side and end panel molds - these would bolt to the top of the normal tub sides, and raise the edge by whatever height they were made to be. They'd match the style of the tub, and accessories, like tonneau covers, would still fit on the top edge of them because that top edge would be the same as the top edge of the tub (because it came from the same mold). The only drawback is you might want a taller tailgate too.

**joesjk** · 10-11-2011, 10:04 PM

Very interested. Ill be keeping my eye on this.

joe

**jscherb** · 10-12-2011, 08:49 PM

I got a PM this afternoon with a question about M416 military trailers. Since others might be interested, I'll answer it here instead of privately.

If your proposed trailer tub will fit a M416 frame, then I may be interested in buying one sooner rather than later.

There are a lot of M416, and similar variants, trailers out there. Mine, for example, is from 1949. While it's in great shape, it's now in need of significant metal work. There are many others in my situation.

Sierra trailers offers a replacement metal tub for ~$1,500, and to the best of my knowledge, that's the only option available.

So there is some form of existing market looking for a cheaper bolt-on alternative, but the dimensions would have to be similar. From the pictures you posted, your tub height looks short.

When I was shopping for a trailer years ago, I came across every variant of the M416 you could imagine. There was one civilian version that had a shorter bed height compared to the standard M416. Your trailer looks identical to that one. If you find the time, can you post your bed dimensions compared to a M416? Here's a good drawing with M416 specs: http://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech...ons-specs.html

I haven't specifically designed the tub to fit the M416 frame, but I dropped a drawing of a 6' version of the tub on a same-scale drawing of the M416, and here's the result:

I don't know anything about the M416 frame, so I can't give a conclusive answer, but the drawing would suggest that the fiberglass tub may be able to be adapted to the M416 frame.

**jscherb** · 10-12-2011, 11:47 PM

Yesterday I picked up the HF trailer kit I plan to use under my proof-of-concept tub, and while I'm not planning to assemble the trailer frame until after I've got the fiberglass tub parts made, but I laid it out on the worktable today in the 4'x4' configuration I'm planning just to make sure all the parts are there (they weren't).

Since I'm shortening the 4'x8' frame to 4'x4', and not using the rear 4'x4' section, I had some extra crossmembers, so I'll use them as shown below, numbered 1 and 2:

Some of the changes I'll make while converting it from a 4'x8' to a 4'x4':

1. Add two extra crossmembers for strength and stiffness.

2. Use another one of the leftover crossmembers to become a third member of the tongue and also lengthen the tongue about 8".

3. Add a receiver tube. The receiver will enable bike carriers and other receiver-based accessories to be used on the back of the trailer.

All of the changes listed above are "drill and bolt" changes, things pretty much anyone would be able to do. That's my goal for this project - no special tools like welders should be required in order to assemble everything. I'll cover the changes in lots of detail when I get to the trailer frame assembly stage of this project.

The axle compares favorably to the 2000-lb. tube axles you can buy at Tractor Supply and Northern Tool; it's much sturdier than the c-channel axles found on the lower-capacity HF 4' and 4'x8' trailers.

I'm putting all the frame parts away for now, I need the worktable to do the fiberglass work on the molds and the tub parts.

**wjeeper** · 10-13-2011, 06:42 AM

I think your concept is sound enough. When cash for clunkers was in action I cant count the times I thought of buying two tubs and stitching them together, but then reality stepped in. I ah HORRIBLE at welding sheet metal!

Two things I really like:
1. I like the concept of the tailgates on both ends. Hauling a canoe, lumber, tube, etc would be really easy with this arrangement. Also if you loaded it up with gear it gives you two really nice access points without needing to take off the cover. I think this would make a good dual purpose trailer.

2. I LOVE the idea of the 5'X4" tub trailer. The width of a medium Camping Labs RTT is really close to the width of a Jeep tub and the lenght (when folded) just under 4'............I like the idea of making the 5'x4' tub into a DIY tentrax-esque set up.

If the price of the Bare tub was reasonable I would consider buying one and attempting option 2.........you would have my full attention.

**wjeeper** · 10-13-2011, 07:14 AM

Ok one post and I am done for the night.....

I really like that the tub is a modular approach. Your choice of one tailgate, two, or none and a choice in length.

Honestly I think the wheel wells are nice touch You don't have to sacrifice all the cargo area like you would if you welded two YJ tubs together. I also think that as long as the fiberglass wheel wells were a decent size you could get away with just one option.......I care to venture that anything that will fit under a stock wheel well will work for 95%+ of DIY guys.

Also building it so that it fits a HF trailer is not a drawback in my eyes. It should be super simple for a DIY guy/ welding shop/ trailer company to make a frame that would be more trail worthy. 4' width is standard throughout the trailer industry. No custom width/ perch axles needed, off the shelf units that any trailer supply shop would have would work with a frame of such dimensions.

**jscherb** · 10-13-2011, 10:40 AM