New Modified Teardrop Concept, Max Storage with Slide-Out

86JP-CJ7

New member
I love the idea and will be borrowing the slide idea for my own build.... However, I like head room so why couldn't you make your bed move down once the kitchen is out. If the weather is real nasty and you don't want to have the kitchen out you can still sleep with it in it's current location but when you are having nice weather leave the kitchen out and the bed in the down position. Just my $.02.


That is an excellent idea and I got excited for a moment. In considering it, there is one problem with it on my concept. My tires are 12.50" wide and my bed will cover about 50% of each tire to give me a bed that is 1' wider than if I had brought the sides straight up from the inside of the tires (like on Bob's Shuttle Pod). For this reason, dropping the bed down is impossible for it would hit the tires.

Feel free too incorporate the giant slide idea. What I like the best about the concept is the slide is so strong, it re-enforces the frame and is really the only moving part besides the wheels and various hinges.
 

elmo_4_vt

Explorer
One suggestion... To keep the weight down on the slider... Maybe consider making some of the heavier parts, like batteries and water tank stationary, with just a cord/hose that recoils going out to the sliding platform. You could mount them forward in the compartment and make the slide go around them. That is the way most of the Aussie trailers make their slide out kitchens. In your case, it could be as much as 300-400lb savings on those sliders (water, container, pump, batteries)?

It would kill the part about lowering the bed though...

-
 

ThomD

Explorer
This is a great idea. It really checks all the boxes on my wish list. One thing though, "Balance Grasshopper." You need a way to deal with the weight shift before you pull out that drawer unit. As far as the awning goes, I'd look at the Hannibal and Foxwing awnings for ideas.
 

r_w

Adventurer
That is SWEET.

Definitely need stabilizer jacks on the back of the trailer to run the slide out and then jacks for the end of the slide to stabilize the kitchen.

I wouldn't put in a roof fan, I would install it in the back wall so it vented out across the kitchen area. No roof penetrations to leak and/or room add a luggage rack for bikes or kayaks.

Only thing I don't like is the door. My big complaint about a lot of teardrops is the crawlspace entry door without an awning or something to get out of the weather. But it is kind of the nature of the beast.

ETA: You need interior storage. Some of the space under the bed could have access from inside (either front of the slide or the sides or both).
 
Last edited:

StumpXJ

SE Expedition Society
I Love the concept, its a REALLY nice idea and design. Just needs a few minor tweeks, as noted above. If it were mine, I would do a trailing arm set-up with airbags and shocks on the suspension, but thats just my opinion. Your towed weight loads wont vary much, so a properly sized torsion axle should work just as well. I just prefer the ride of airbags/trailing arms over torsion axles, and the ability to adjust for varying weights.

My head is running rampant with little tweaks that would your design work for me(mainly the ability to stand up easily inside)... I must get off this forum before I start to build another trailer!

Great start! Now get to building!
 

Captm

Adventurer
Go light young man

Check out http://www.timbren.com/suspensions.htm for another suspension idea.
Going with a composite panel as mentioned previuosly would cut a lot of weight and add strength. The panels are not welded in the traditional sense. Glue and screw, that is caulk such as Sikaflex and mechanical fasteners. Yachts and planes are made this way to keep weight down while maintaining strength. Every once counts. You can shop around for pricing on panels and you'll find a min. order required from the source or you can buy individuale sheets from suppliers. The question is then what type of core- aluminum, poly, or other combined with which type of veneered finish- Alum., wood, FRP. As always pros and cons to each choice. The producers of the panels are very helpful in matching the right panels, adhesives etc. for your project.

On a personal note I say keep the work here, employ your fellow Americans as we manufacture the best products here :wings:- end of rant
 

Uncle Roger

Observer
why couldn't you make your bed move down once the kitchen is out. If the weather is real nasty and you don't want to have the kitchen out you can still sleep with it in it's current location but when you are having nice weather leave the kitchen out and the bed in the down position. Just my $.02.
Personally, I definitely prefer simplicity to fancy options -- I'm dreading the day the power sliding doors on our minivan die and we have to get them fixed. But I also like headroom. My thought was why not go with a pop-top like a westy?

btw, I love the design! It's not right for us (we have 3 kids and don't generally stay out long enough to warrant the fancy kitchen) but once the kids are in college and I win the lottery, that would be perfect for a month or two in the Black Rock desert!
 

Uncle Roger

Observer
You need interior storage. Some of the space under the bed could have access from inside (either front of the slide or the sides or both).
At the very least, that long storage spot at the front of the slide-out should have an access door from inside the cabin.
 

86JP-CJ7

New member
Alternate Design

Ok... I listened to all you guys (the experts) and I was able to get three heavy items off of the slide (two 16 gal tanks and the battery). These weighed 328lbs and that doesn't include the reduced weight of the now smaller slide. I had to move things around on the slide to get the best fit, but I think I am happier with this set up.

I can now get two 25 gal water tanks in the "hull" as opposed to the two 16 gal I had on the slider. I know 50 gal of water weighs 420lbs, but just because they are there, doesn't mean they have to be filled to max capacity. The trip length and terrain will dictate the fill level.

The drawers are sized to the AT 24" deep drawers and I will use the leftover space above them as two separate storage areas accessed via the lids (the thin one being used for eating utensils).

TrailerAltB.jpg


TrailerAltA.jpg


TrailerAltC.jpg


TrailerAltD.jpg



Now to comment on some of the suggestions:

1. The fan into the rear compartment instead of the roof is genius, I'll use it.
2. I know I need interior storage, but I don't want to lengthen the trailer or “raise the roof”. I noticed I will have some storage over the fenders on the inside. I'll get creative during the build and think of something.
3. That Timbren suspension looks great. I will have to research the cost vs. torsion and also the various pros and cons with each.
4. I considered a pop up roof, but I think it would be beyond my skill level and would eventually leak.
5. In reference to the access door inside the cabin to the storage area. This would be a great spot and I considered it, but the bed is 75” long and the kitchen takes up about 72” of it underneath. I could make the bed longer and add interior storage, but then I would have to make the trailer longer which I cannot do as it will reduce its off-road ability. I will find some storage space in there somewhere.
 

Uncle Roger

Observer
Here's a thought... what if you put a small cabinet across from the door, up against the opposite wall? From the front of the bed to where the wall starts angling inward, and the same height as the bed. It wouldn't take up an excessive amount of space and would offer some serious benefits:

  • A modicum of storage space. Not a lot, but enough for a few things.
  • A place to sit to put your shoes on that isn't the bed (so you don't wake anyone still sleeping.)
  • With the addition of a folding/collapsible table, you and your partner can sit and enjoy a meal together and be able to see each other. Add a folding stool and you've got seating for three (third person up front facing back).

Anyway, that's what I would do, I think, if I were building it.
 

r_w

Adventurer
One more thought....

That spot at the edge of the roofline where the pop-up tent attaches is gonna leak. bad. You may be able to put a gutter system and raise lip on the frame to minimize issues, but noodle on that one. A swing UP hatch may work better--lots of minivans in the junkyard to steal hinges and parts and ideas from.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,821
Messages
2,878,588
Members
225,378
Latest member
norcalmaier
Top