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Thread: Another Trailer build

  1. #31
    Thanks for the understanding, JeepDork, I didn't mean to come off as an ***, but I could see how it could be taken that way.

    I did some work over the holidays, but no pictures:

    -fixed some air leaks in the bag fittings, has been holding pressure for several days now.

    -started skinning my wheel wells

    -Trimmed the upper airbag mounts, all tires fit with no rubbing at all

    I am still waiting on two link bushings for the track bar. I do not want to do much more frame work until the track bar is installed. I only have 3 more major pieces of steel to purchase.

    Here are my costs to date. I have not included the cost of tires or wheels which is why the price is so low. There are other odds and ends I have yet to include as well. I expect to be at $2,500 when it is all said and done.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    The Nanny State
    Posts
    5,726
    Like I stated in my first post, you don't want the tongue to be butted to the front of the main part of the frame. That region is a major hinge point and the stresses there are very high. It only works for others because they haven't loaded the trailer enough, yet, to cause a problem. Adding a tube behind the front cross piece to the second cross piece is not a valid substitute. The main tube(s) should be continuous and preferably under both cross pieces rather than thru them.
    I'm probably coming off as a jerk, but my goal isn't to be so. It is to get people to understand that not always is "this works" good practice. There are better ways to do some things and those designs and methods have sometimes come about at great expensive to people or property. It behooves us to understand why rather than casually dismissing them.

    http://www.amazon.com/Trailers-How-D...2524080&sr=8-2
    51VC1Qj0ZyL._SS500_.jpg
    I used to swerve around my hallucinations, now I drive right through them.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Banning, California
    Posts
    202
    As both ntqd and I have stated the tongue is a very weak setup currently. I do not know what your plan is to fix it, but if you go to the first post on Skersfan's build (me) you will see what we are saying. At least somewhat. I did mine under the box for the first time in 25 years. Still do no know if I like it. I normally cut and fit into the box. I think it is stronger, but this is much easier.

    Not telling you how to build your trailer, but if there are not significant changes it will break at the front. The triangulation of the frame is stronger than plating it and is way less weight.

    I would just hate to see you invest all the time and money and get stuck out on a trail somewhere. Not being a wise ***, just trying to help.

  4. #34
    So you are both saying there is nothing that could not be done to my current design to make it work?


    Let me re-phrase, what would you do?
    Last edited by system-f; 11-29-2011 at 01:35 AM.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Brea, CA USA
    Posts
    100
    [QUOTE=system-f;995925]Thanks for the understanding, JeepDork, I didn't mean to come off as an ***, but I could see how it could be taken that way.

    No worries. If your interested here is a deal about tongue strength that I found on here. I know it is for Australian users, but it gives at least a guide to go for. Why it would matter as to where the guide is from is beyond me. A trailer that breaks there would break here. I hope this helps. In your defense I know you are not done with this trailer and maybe the tongue.

    http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.u...rop/tear84.htm

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Las Vegas, Nevada
    Posts
    238
    They haven't said that at all, re-read their posts. Your frame may be salvageable by running the tongue under the frame. See the picture Bob mentioned in his last post.


  7. #37
    They haven't said that at all, re-read their posts. Your frame may be salvageable by running the tongue under the frame. See the picture Bob mentioned in his last post.
    Edited posted so that it can be better understood. I am not running the tongue under the frame, I think that can be avoided.

  8. #38
    Thanks, Jeepdork. Looks like I might need to change the material I am using in the tongue.



    I am not running the tongue under the frame, I think that can be avoided.
    I take this back, I think I just came up with a solution that will meet the requirements everyone is asking utilising the materials I already have. It won't be as pretty as I want and will actually solve another problem of the trailer being taller than truck. Stay tuned.
    Last edited by system-f; 11-29-2011 at 01:46 AM.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Scottsdale, AZ
    Posts
    1,517
    [QUOTE=JeepDork;996132]
    Quote Originally Posted by system-f View Post
    Thanks for the understanding, JeepDork, I didn't mean to come off as an ***, but I could see how it could be taken that way.

    No worries. If your interested here is a deal about tongue strength that I found on here. I know it is for Australian users, but it gives at least a guide to go for. Why it would matter as to where the guide is from is beyond me. A trailer that breaks there would break here. I hope this helps. In your defense I know you are not done with this trailer and maybe the tongue.

    http://www.angib.pwp.blueyonder.co.u...rop/tear84.htm
    Thanks for posting this very useful link...it has put my mind at ease with my design
    "Knowledge without experience is just information"--Mark Twain

  10. #40
    So what I am going to do is cut the current tongue shorter by a foot or two, then take some of that same type of tube but a much longer piece run it under the current tongue back to the second cross member and put the receiver on it. The receiver will be tied into both the top and bottom tube section at the front of the tongue and there will still be a cross member behind the current tongue. This will give me more than enough steel to meet the mathematical requirements of Jeepdork's link, give me a 2" drop that I need to match the ride height of my primary tow rig and give me a single piece of metal all the way to the second cross member. It won't be the prettiest thing in the world but I think everyone will agree it will be more than adequate. Let me know what you think.

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