Another Trailer build

[system-f]

I installed the trackbar last night. There is some binding, as would be expected, but so far not enough to cause too much concern. Pictures later, it is rainy now and I am lazy.

I'm thinking that a ball mount would offer more resistance in certain situations to keep a trailer from flipping over.

This isn't the most intelligent answer, but if the trailer is going to go let it go. I don't want the chance that the trailer is going to take the truck with it as the trailer is much better equipped to survive a roll than the truck. Though, this would not be likely as the trailer is 1/5 the truck's weight.

[system-f]

Here are pictures from today. I wanted to get the floor in, but it is cold, rainy, and I have a trip to make. I did get the trackbar installed and after playing around with the amount of suspension travel I am happy with how everything works.

[EWS]

Hi.

Thanks for the images of the airbag/bellows suspension system, the one with the sway bar made it all fall into place. Now, what have you for the air lines, individual adjustment or both joined with a tee piece, how are you planning to supply and regulate them.

Nice to see a beam axle with this type of suspension, wish I had been a few months later with my leaf spring build, as now thinking of a retro fit, with individual lines fitted with shrader type valves. ( have onboard compressor in Land Rover Defender) to adjust for trailer load. Waiting costs for items from UK suppliers for airbag/bellows and fitments.

[Pikeman]

Thanks for explaining that... I didn't consider that the hitch can rotate.
.
Which brings up a question;
Would a trailer be more likey to flip using a hitch that can rotate 360 degrees or a standard ball mount?
I'm thinking that a ball mount would offer more resistance in certain situations to keep a trailer from flipping over.

Actually a standard ball hitch would just release and allow the trailer to seperate from the tow vehicle. Having the trailer come loose is very bad in almost all situations. A good solid connection like that of the Max Coupler or the Lock-N-Roll for off-road use is the best option and then a Pintle & Lunette is next.

[system-f]

Now, what have you for the air lines, individual adjustment or both joined with a tee piece, how are you planning to supply and regulate them.

The air system for the air bags will be AIR SUPPLY IN - > Tee -> (right bag) One way valve only air can go TO bag - > electric solenoid normally allows air to bags when activated releases air to atmosphere - > airbag. The left airbag will be setup the same as the right. At first I was thinking of putting my CO2 tank in the trailer as I don't use it for anything but then I thought a small electric compressor and 5 gallon tank would be better with CO2 as backup. I want to have a regulator which I can set and leave the supply always open to the air bags, that way if they leak a tiny bit it won't matter as the air system will fill them up. (They leak enough now to drop the trailer 1" in two days, but I think this is the temporary vavle I have now as I cannot find any leaks at the bags. Then I need a connection that will go from the truck air system to the trailer air system in just in case but that will be a simple hose.

[system-f]

Yesterday parts came in! I have two 35" extended 250lb gas struts and two lockable adjustable latch clamps. My water tank should be shipping soon and I hope to have this thing mostly skinned by this evening.

[system-f]

I finally finished the rolling chassis. I have about 100 highway miles on it and it tows great. Very easy to pull behind both vehicles even with the large out of round bias plys.

Crappy cell phone pic:



Now onto setting up the water, electrical, and air systems.

[bob]

Looking pretty slick F.

[EWS]

Hi.

The drawbar from the image, would worry me, the transition point from the double thickness box section to the single box section, seems to be a weak point considering the length of the drawbar, as it seems to be 2x2 (50mmx50mm box), it would worry me. I personally would have gone for 2x3 (50mm x 75mm) thick walled box, as I have done, but it’s a personal choice. If it has indications of failure I am sure you could rebuild that section. Just thinking about the dynamic loading/forces on the drawbar as apposed to the static loading, as have recently seem a trailer with a 50mm x 50mm single pole drawbar severely bent in the vertical plane/axis ,though not aware of what circumstances led to this failure.

[JeepDork]

Hi.

The drawbar from the image, would worry me, the transition point from the double thickness box section to the single box section, seems to be a weak point considering the length of the drawbar, as it seems to be 2x2 (50mmx50mm box), it would worry me. I personally would have gone for 2x3 (50mm x 75mm) thick walled box, as I have done, but it’s a personal choice. If it has indications of failure I am sure you could rebuild that section. Just thinking about the dynamic loading/forces on the drawbar as apposed to the static loading, as have recently seem a trailer with a 50mm x 50mm single pole drawbar severely bent in the vertical plane/axis ,though not aware of what circumstances led to this failure.

Oh NO... here we go again! Trailer looks good, so does the 4 runner.