Need advice on M416 purchase
- Thread starter lcpdx
- Start date
Hill Bill E.
Oath Keeper
It's a little rough, and has had a tailgate cut into it, but it's solid. $500 would be a fair price, but shoot for lower, offer $3-$350 and go from there.
It's complete, with the lunette and parking brake handle, only missing the original tail lights. That's no big deal, as even when converted to 12V bulbs, they aren't very bright.
I would go for it, these trailers are getting harder to find. It needs some work, but will be worth it.
I have an RTT mounted on mine, and love it! My dad left his 'stock' and loves it, we use both trailers a lot.
BTW: if you get it, and would like to part with the lunette (ring part of the hitch) I'd be willing to buy it! (and swap you my tongue to boot!)
Mine was cut off, and had a 2" ball style hitch welded to it.
It's complete, with the lunette and parking brake handle, only missing the original tail lights. That's no big deal, as even when converted to 12V bulbs, they aren't very bright.
I would go for it, these trailers are getting harder to find. It needs some work, but will be worth it.
I have an RTT mounted on mine, and love it! My dad left his 'stock' and loves it, we use both trailers a lot.
BTW: if you get it, and would like to part with the lunette (ring part of the hitch) I'd be willing to buy it! (and swap you my tongue to boot!)
Mine was cut off, and had a 2" ball style hitch welded to it.
$500 isn't bad, depending on how the local market is. It has a buggered up real panel, wrong lights, and the wrong brackets for the lights, and that all hurts the collectible value of it for military vehicle collectors.
That would be around average, maybe a tad high for the market here in NC. I have one with all original lights and an unmolested rear panel, plus a much straighter floor listed for $625 if that gives you some basis to compare.
That would be around average, maybe a tad high for the market here in NC. I have one with all original lights and an unmolested rear panel, plus a much straighter floor listed for $625 if that gives you some basis to compare.
trailer
I have been keeping my eye out for one for the past 2 years, in about a 4 hour radius of here, and have seen nothing.
It looks like it is just surface paint peeling, and would say that is a great find.
In that shape around here it would bring more, even in this flat land area.
good luck,
joe
I have been keeping my eye out for one for the past 2 years, in about a 4 hour radius of here, and have seen nothing.
It looks like it is just surface paint peeling, and would say that is a great find.
In that shape around here it would bring more, even in this flat land area.
good luck,
joe
Thats some straight shootin' advice. Thanks folks.
Now what would it take to remove the box from the frame? Looks like this unit has been desert side for a while which lends me to believe that it might not be to rusty. If the bolts/nuts come off fairly easy, any ideas on what a sand/media blaster would charge to prep for a paint job at a shop?
Now what would it take to remove the box from the frame? Looks like this unit has been desert side for a while which lends me to believe that it might not be to rusty. If the bolts/nuts come off fairly easy, any ideas on what a sand/media blaster would charge to prep for a paint job at a shop?
Flyfishjeep
Adventurer
The tub comes off fairly easy....Just 13 bolts along the outside and possibley some underneath if it has rails on the bottom that attach to the cross bars. you can do all of the work to the frame/brakes/axl/electrical, and then just pop the tub back on. You will love pulling one of these guys around (if you even remember it is back there). I use mine for tons of different things, but now it is finally getting rebuilt from the ground up.
I recommend tearing it all apart and taking all of the pieces to the sandblaster rather than let them blast it in one piece. There are parts that may not get fully cleaned up and then rust will live under whatever your going to coat it with. I have restored/modified 3 trailers (1 M416/2 M100s) and found this is the best approach when dealing with 40+ year old trailers. Good luck. BTW..$500 in California is a steal. Most hear run 800+ and the ones under that are usually only good for parts short of making a new tub.
I recommend tearing it all apart and taking all of the pieces to the sandblaster rather than let them blast it in one piece. There are parts that may not get fully cleaned up and then rust will live under whatever your going to coat it with. I have restored/modified 3 trailers (1 M416/2 M100s) and found this is the best approach when dealing with 40+ year old trailers. Good luck. BTW..$500 in California is a steal. Most hear run 800+ and the ones under that are usually only good for parts short of making a new tub.
New Horizons Overland
NEWHORIZONSOVERLAND
I found a CDN M101, which is the canadian version, and i paid $750 for it. I agree with every one elses advice. Start low around 300-350 and work from there. You will almost definately want to fully disassemble it. Take every single bolt out. If you need replacement parts there are plenty of dealers out there. Midwest Military or Rapco is a good place to start. I had mine powdercoated. Blasting plus Coating only cost me $600 and that was for every single part of the trailer. It depends on the company but sometimes you can bargain with them. Other than the modifications to the rear and the damaged side rail, it looks like you have a fairly intact trailer. If you want to ditch the tailgate, rear tub panels are only about $100 from midwest Military. Good luck with the build!!
Arctic Cat
Adventurer
Also if looking for parts you can contact Erick's Military Surplus,http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/index.html I buy parts from them, I believe they are based in CA. RAPCO is another good source and believe they are based in Texas, http://www.rapcoparts.com/index.html and last but not least Saturn Surplus and they are based in PA, http://saturnsurplus.com/
Good Luck with your project.
Good Luck with your project.