Thule Rack + FlipPac

[Dave Bennett]

The soft racks don't add any permanent weight, I've never used one but I think they just allow some weight distribution/cushion and tie down points.

The ones I have seen (like this http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-So...id=1419108209&sr=8-1&keywords=soft+kayak+rack ) loop thru the cabin of a vehicle but that won't work with a flippac, wasurf apparently has some that have clips that would hook under the edges of the flippac roof - I haven't been able to find a set like that though.

This is fine and how I carry my 15 ft tandem kayak. My comment was directed at adding permanent "racks" to the lid. It's been done before and those that I know that did it regretted it.

 

[Dave Bennett]

True, but adding weight to the existing design won't affect torsion bar reliability. Those of us who have taken the torsion bar thickness (diameter) to zero, by removing it, now have a very reliable unit. However even without a rack we now have a very heavy lid :>)

Torsion bar delete is a different case, but a compromise in other ways

 

[homemade]

This is fine and how I carry my 15 ft tandem kayak. My comment was directed at adding permanent "racks" to the lid. It's been done before and those that I know that did it regretted it.

What brand of soft rack do you have, does it have gutter clips or do you attach it to the sides of the lid or the sides of the cap?

Thanks

 

[Dave Bennett]

I use the Yakima foam blocks and straps with some foam blocks as spacers to keep the straps off the sides of the shell.

 

[Overlanerd]

The only solution that fits my needs is similar to this one:

http://www.wildboarproducts.com/racks.php

I actually drew up some plans before finding this. It would mount to the truck like an "over the camper" lumber rack. The legs would mount to an angle bracket that would bolt to the factory rails and the Flippac mounting bolts. The angle would obviously sit between the bed rail and Flippac. The legs could also bolt to the sides of the Flippac to keep it from "racking" (pun intended), or you could go with some thicker tubing. Weight is always a concern of course.

Lifting it could be done with a torsion bar or a hydraulic strut. You could just stand on the tailgate and muscle it over. There would obviously be a mechanism to lock it in place.

I want the ability to quickly pop the top on road trips without removing anything from the top. We tend to camp in different spots each night and this would only add 10 - 15 seconds to the setup/ breakdown process.

A cargo box and solar panel would fit nicely up there. For my needs, I would only have 3 bars up there, spaced about 30" apart, instead of a full cargo basket.

Another benefit is that you could mount some sand ladders, Maxtrax, or Rotopax to the legs of the rack/ side of the camper.

The easiest solution (IMO) would be to have it flip towards the back with some fixed tubing along the sides and back of the camper (below the lid). Two lift struts could be mounted to the fixed side bars and the rack would be hinged at the back. The only problem is that my 14' canoe, that would be hanging over the back of the camper, would swing down and block the rear window.

Someone build this so I can copy you!

Option B for me would be to get a lighter canoe or start doing military presses. Getting the canoe up there is tough.

 

[mtnbike28]

Please post a picture

I use the Yakima foam blocks and straps with some foam blocks as spacers to keep the straps off the sides of the shell.

 

[mtnbike28]

I would like to mount the wall anchors high up on the walls but I'm not sure what is right behind the fiberglass in the thick upper rim so I'll probably mount them just below that portion and use a backer plate and bolt thru the thinner part of the sidewall.[/url]

I talked to Mario at Expo East and that was his suggestion (as I understood it) - the top has a square tube covered in fiberglass. He suggested drilling below the tube, rather than through it and using a long backing plate to spread the weight/pinch point....

 

[homemade]

Thanks for the helpful info

after looking at these images

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...in-over-your-head-in-three-easy-steps-)/page2

I am going to stay below the thickened upper rim for the wall anchors.

I should have the soft rack this week but it will probably take a week or so to get the anchors.

 

[homemade]

I have the stainless padeyes and 4x4 x 1/4" aluminum flat bar to use as a backer. Any ideas if I should I cut away the carpet inside the shell at the backer plates or just sandwich the carpet between the backer plate and the shell?

Thanks

 

[dman93]

I would just sandwich the carpet behind the backer plate. I think that would be plenty strong since teh carpet is very thin.

-dman93

 

[homemade]

I think you are right but for now I am planning to cut the carpet out where I put the backers because I have some eternabond two sided tape that I am going to use to seal the padeye on the outside of the shell and the backing plate inside the shell.

 

[Jr_Explorer]

Rack or no rack will not affect the torsion bar one bit. What you have to watch out for is the force required to open or close the lid IF you have additional weight on said lid during the opening or closing. The lid is opened or closed by the torque (combination of torsion bar and lever you rotate) applied through the driver's side half hinge attached/embedded into the lid. That force into the driver's side corner of the lid gets pretty huge if you add 20-50 pounds on the aft edge of the lid and the Flippacs are NOT known for their incredible robustness nor high end composite construction. There's no Kevlar or carbon fiber reinforcement in high stress areas (I'm not even sure there is any fiberglass cloth reinforcement! I think it's all chopper gun lay-up). I could just see that corner failing and that half hinge breaking through if you load it high enough.

We love our Flippac but it is a shame they don't invest $200 in really great materials in the 2 sq ft that would REALLY benefit from the application.