Arizona Traverse - Solo on a dual sport

[agavelvr]

I was considering deleting this trip report based upon how Expo handled this thread about a fellow expo member scamming me:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/81616

However, doing so would not be very proper, since Expo and Overland journal paid me to write up this trip. So, the story remains...


So, Scott threw down the challenge, be the first to ride the AZ Traverse on a moto.
http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...complete-the-route?highlight=arizona+traverse

Well that sounds like fun right? Who wouldn't want to ride from the low desert solitude of the Tinajas Altas Range?

all the way up to the majestic Grand Canyon?

The places in between are equally interesting on this long traverse. Amazing geology, interesting plants, historic mining towns, Native American ruins, and everything else my home state has to offer the adventure traveler.

As always, there were a handful of problems that stood in the way of an epic ride like this...

1. Taking the time from work
2. Getting some friends to tag along
3. Convincing my wife that this was a good idea
4. Assembling the gear required

I'm sure many of you reading this have faced these same challenges. It seems like setting a date is the most difficult thing facing the average suburban adventurer. Fortunately, taking off work is pretty easy since the boss values getting out. I suppose it also helps that I am the boss Two of the other issues revolve around Turkey Day, which I needed to take advantage of to allow enough time to get the trip done in its entirety. Typically, it's pretty easy to round up the usual suspects for a little adventure. But friends have families, families usually frown upon missing big family holidays for a boys' week on the trail. Mine is no different, but they cut me some slack when I have the itch to get outside.

Rescheduling clients and getting a sub for the college class I teach took a little effort, but I managed to clear 12 days off the calendar to allow for plenty of time and any strange weather that may try to thwart my efforts. Good weather will mean more side trips or the possibility to make it home for the aforementioned turkey dinner. Bad weather might end up with me flopping on your couch and drinking all your good beer. Let's hope Mother Nature plays ball, stock the fridge just in case.

Unfortunately, I can't change the calendar, so it looks like I'm going solo on this one. As far as the wife goes...let's just say my next trip report will probably be filed aboard a cruise ship in more southern latitudes.

Preparations

With the hard work out of the way, it was now time to assemble the gear. After raiding my stockpile of adventure junk, I found that I was lacking the following items:

1. motorcycle
2. riding gear
3. motorcycle license
4. Emergency communications, like a SPOT

No bike you ask? That's right, when I got this crazy idea back in September, I had none of the above. Well, I don't let little details like that stand in the way a good time.

So, what about the bike? Borrowing one seemed a bit inappropriate since I would be riding at least 1000 miles on this trip. So, I established a budget and started looking. I took my total bike budget and lopped off $1500 and reserved that for safety gear and maintenance. I know, kind of a buzz kill, but necessary in my opinion. I really don't care what I ride, but have some concerns about the material between me and the ground should something unfortunate happen.

With the meager remains of my budget, the search for a dual sport bike ensued. Getting something new was unlikely, so I became an avid reader of ADV and the pages here on Expo to get some ideas. Craigslist became a daily visit. I checked out a bunch of cool bikes, many of which tempted me to cut into that safety budget mentioned earlier. Holding out for just the right bike at the right price rewarded me with a killer private party deal. The trusty steed for this adventure is a new to me 2009 KLR650. Just shy of 1800 miles, Good Times warranty till 2014, tastefully prefarkled.



We call her Pollo Picante

No license? Yeah, many moons ago, I had a street bike for all of 4 weeks and about 400 miles.

This was 1992 and I was still living under my parent's roof. I managed to hide the bike from them for about a month. Once they found out I wasn't riding my bicylce to school and work, this one had to be sold. Anyhow, the bike was gone before my learner's permit expired and I was unable to get my moto endorsement

Getting the moto license was a technicality that is easily remedied. So, I dipped into my safety budget and signed up for a motorcycle safety course. Figured it would be a good idea to get some professional instruction and freshen up my cage fighting skills. Other than extensive mountainbiking, I lack any significant dirt bike riding skills. I am a motocycle newbie afterall. I noticed one of the local schools discounted their price in order to fill an upcoming class. With just 2 hours to spare, I secured my spot in a 3 day course for $140. A wise investment IMHO. I had a good time riding their little bikes around the tarmac and picked up a few new skills.

The riding gear presented a bit of a problem. Seems most of the shops around here are geared towards dirt bikes and/or street. Dual sports seem to be the ginger stepchild of the moto world. Fortunately, I was able to get a decent helmet locally. I also scored a like new pair of Alpinestars Tech3 boots on craigslist. Not exactly dual sport boots, but they fit, are protective, and most importantly...cheap! The other stuff would have to be ordered online.

I was not too thrilled by the prospect of buying a SPOT and a year of service with the pending release of Delorme's InReach right around the corner. My wife wanted me to carry one since I would be traveling solo, which I reluctantly admitted was a good idea. I also figured the folks following the trip would enjoy seeing my tracks in real time. Fortunately, Lance over at Disabled Explorers saved the day by loaning me a SPOT for the trip! If you don't know about the cool work Lance and his crew has been doing, check out their website.
http://www.disabledexplorers.com
Lance dropped by the house to deliver the SPOT and trade stories last night. Thanks Lance and Disabled Explorers!

With the bike taken care of, I was now tempted to get some of those shiny boxes to store all my junk in. While a nice set of panniers was tempting, I'm going Expoordition style. Kayaking dry bags are something I own already and should do the job just fine. Let's just hope the border patrol doesn't mistake me for a drug runner again :sombrero:

Last thing to do, see if someone had already completed the traverse while I was sidetracked with all of the above. Even if it had, I was still going to get out and have some fun on this new bike, though I would stay down here in the desert to stay warm Turns out it hadn't. I had to run up to Prescott to get a flip pac installed on my truck, so I paid Scott a visit up at OJ HQ a week before my scheduled departure. He showed me the route and explained that much of it was in need of verification. When I laid his data ontop of what I had already worked out, we had the makings of an excellent ride. This made the trip even more interesting. Looks like I'm packing the warm sleeping bag this time. This isn't going to be a follow the breadcrumbs type ride. There will be a lot of new to me tracks, decisions to be made in the field rather than Google Earth, and no set number of miles to be done per day. When you see me camping on the rim of the Grand Canyon, I hope to have a proven continuous route for you to go out and enjoy yourself.

Updates from the field will be dependant on my ability to borrow a computer where I get gas. I'm too cheap to buy a fancy phone

Let the good times roll, the adventure starts Friday.

Follow along here...

 

[agavelvr]

After piling my junk on the bike, I looked like one of those overloaded refugee trucks with stuff handing out all over the place. Different sized and colored dry bags, tent, sleeping bag, etc were a visual disaster. I wasn't too concerned about aesthetics, but I began to reason that if I crashed or passed thru some brushy spots, the various bags and tie downs would become more than just an eye sore. So, I headed over to Sierra Expeditions to see what Will had had for me. Turns out he stocks some primo gear for the adventure traveler. Will lets me try on a bunch of stuff. I am drawn to the Giant Loop pannier products, but they do not play well with my pelican case or budget. I decide upon a GL tank bag, figuring having a tank bag would be very useful. Turns out, this was the most used piece of luggage in the kit. I highly recommend a high quality tank bag after riding over 1200 miles.

Returning home with a lighter wallet, I call one of my new expo buddies to explain my plight. Kindly, he offers up a set of Dirt Bagz panniers and the handlebar adapter to make my GPS RAM mount usable. I quickly ride over to his place to test the fit. They work like a charm and save me from the disgrace of looking like a roving gypsy. Upon returning home, I work out a storage solution using my dry bags inside the Dirt Bagz and existing pelican case. Everthing is snug, no vibrations, easily accessed. The advantage of these loaner panniers is streamlined footprint which should reduce snags, easy removal of lots of weight should the need arrise, soft on the rider in the event of a crash (compared to aluminum boxes). Patrick, major thanks for your kindness and expertise!!!

The last bits of preparation involved more education. I am an extreme newbie afterall. My moto mechanic skills do not exist and rely on my knowledge of bicycle repair. So, off to youtube to learn all things KLR650. I watch videos on repairing tires, brakes, suspension, etc. Amazing what how quickly you can gain some good information on the internet these days. I'm not sure if I would be willing to do a trip like this without prior first hand knowledge of executing common repairs. Turns out, watching a few videos answers the little detail questions I had about the KLR, and I feel confident enough to tackle the common problems I might run into. It's really just a big mountain bike with an engine afterall.

I change the oil and air filter, snug all the bolts, and give things a final lookover the day before my departure.

This bike is entirely stock with the following bolt ons courtesy of the PO:
crash bars
highway pegs
luggage rack
rear brake guard
skid plate
Pelican case

I read a bunch of complaints about the handlebar height, footpegs, seat, suspension, and countless other things that are "mission critical" upgrades before attempting a serious ride. The trip is more important to me than having the bike dialed in. I mean you could waste weeks upon weeks building a bike, truck, whatever. All that time and cash could be spent taking trips. The bike is new to me, I have riden less than 200 miles on it in the 3 weeks since I had bought it. I really have not idea of how good or bad this bike is in its stock configuration. All I know for sure is I'm a cheap bastard and will figure out what is "mission critical" after the mission is complete People have taken these thumpers around the world in basic stock configurations and some luggage. Surely I can handle a little shake down trip thru Arizona.

 

[agavelvr]

Day One - Casa de Agavelvr to Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge
Sand in the Vasoline


I get my wife to take a pic before I leave, just in case the SAR folks need to know what to look for.

So, I live in Ahwatukee. The AZ Traverse's official starting point is in the middle of the Barry Goldwater Bombing Range. I've done the Camino del Diablo before, so I know the routine and secured my permit a week in advance by visiting the Phoenix BLM office. This frees me from having to go to Ajo and taking the moon dust road to my starting point. I really didn't want to do an out and back from Yuma...So, Christmas Pass would be my route down to the starting line. I hadn't done it before and figured camping in the pass area or beyond would make a nice first day.

I fly down the highway past the Sonoran Desert Monument, which I had hoped would be open for a quick trip down the Butterfield Stage Route. Unfortunately, it is still closed due to severe damage due to OHV abuse.

Eventually, I make it to Dateland and their newly remodeled facilities.

Stock photo courtesy of Agavelvr
I gas up and resist the temptation to get a date shake. They really are great thought if you are in the area. Dates make an excellent food source for a trip like this and Dateland has all kinds of varieties you are unlikely to find in your common grocery store. After some quick math, I realize my highway driving yields a pathetic 28 MPG. The pollo is saddled with payload = to its own weight, pushing 6500 RPM at 65-75 MPG.

I continue down the highway and can not find a way to access the range. About 8 miles past my anticipated turn, I reach the charming hamlet of Tacna, whose gas station I relieve of 0.78 gallons of fuel. Figure I might as well get all the fuel I can since I do not know my trail MPG yet. I find that keeping the speed under 65 mph and around 4500 RPMs returns 31.3 MPG. I'm scared to find out what the dirt will do to my MPG.

One last call to my wife, cut through the railroad crossing that appears to be signaling the presence of a ghost locomotive, and I turn pollo picante loose on the dirt for the first time. Sadly, I fail to photograph this historic moment. You will have to visit the road south of Tacna yourself to witness the grandeur. The sun was setting and I had to make tracks to get to Christmas Pass.

An old friend appears in the distance.

Funny, no mention of the fact that traveling off trail could get you blown up.

The dirt road is straight and smooth, which I greet with a liberal twist of throttle. The road turns south towards the Mohawk Dunes, which do not really live up to my expectations. I was really hoping for more than a pile of sand with a bunch of brush growing on it. I should have had more respect I guess. Shortly after thinking this, the road becomes thick with sand, though recent rains made it manageable even for a newbie like me. 25-30 MPH were comfortable speed, slowing for the really bad stuff from time to time. Darkness upon me, I was hoping to push thru the sand to Christmas Pass. The dune would have its revenge though…My camp ultimately decided by my first dump, ever. “It's not a question of if you will dump the bike, but when and where”, the words of my moto instructor ring in my ear with his Obi-wan likeness floating in the last glow of twilight.

My dump site taken the following morning.

The sand was very deep, making it difficult lift the bike. I thought I had been prepared for such a situation after watching a youtube video on how to lift a KLR. Laugh if you will, but I figured the video would suffice for actually trying it before taking the trip. Turns out a kitted out KLR is a pretty heavy and sandy condition made it impossible for me to lift it loaded. This is not one of the BP drag roads and is pretty squishy. I'm frustrated and begin to question what I have gotten myself into. I then remember the wise words of Adventure Trailer's Martyn on how to deal with such problems… “brew a cuppa tea”, meaning to take some time to chill before acting. I sit there a while and collect my thoughts. I reason that if the bike is too heavy, I should simply remove the cargo and give it a try. I barely manage to get her upright.

Having righted the bike, I just throw down camp. This is where I appreciate the sand, as it makes for a comfortable bed. It's painfully quiet as I lay in bed. No wind, no coyotes, no border patrol. My past camping trips in the vicinity were a concert compared to this. The border patrol sets the rhythm with the coyotes acting as chorus. Tonight is different though, it is so still that the only sound I hear is the occasional stink bug walking across the sand. I am content to simply enjoy the silence as I drift off.

Around midnight I hear a couple of car doors close. Hard to tell where it came from, so I pop up to take a look and take a bathroom break. About a half mile out I see some vehicles and figure it is BP. I'm just off the road, but hidden among the creosote. So, if it is bad guys, I'm hoping I go unnoticed. Sometime around 3am I am roused again by the sounds of a truck in the distance. It flies by my campsite without pause, a border patrol truck practicing for the Baja 1000.

The story continues on Day Two...

 

[nwoods]

Subscribed!
Great writing so far! Unfortunately, about half the images posted so far are blocked by PukeBucket, I assume due to exceeding their paltry bandwidth caps.

 

[agavelvr]

Subscribed!
Great writing so far! Unfortunately, about half the images posted so far are blocked by PukeBucket, I assume due to exceeding their paltry bandwidth caps.

Thanks for the comment
About the photo issue, this is actually a problem here on this site, perhaps something to do with the server upgrade? I noticed the issue, reported it, and just stuck dummy images in as the first image in each post, so you shouldn't miss out on anything I have a pro account, so badwidth shouldn't be a problem.

 

[DesertRose]

Nice, Jeff, what fun! Maybe some day will try that on my R80 G/S

 

[adventureduo]

Right on Jeff, keep it coming man.. we're heading there in 20 days.

 

[clcoyle]

Looks like a great start. Subscribed.

 

[1leglance]

I am soooo wanting to read more of this...forget that work thing and get this thread done

Glad you had a good time and glad to made it home safe & sound.

 

[agavelvr]

Day Two – Cabeza Prieta to KofA - Over the Hills and Far Away
Mellow is the man who knows what he's been missing
Many many men can't see the open road.



It's a lazy morning, yet I manage to rise with the sun. Borrowing from the expo handbook of advanced logistics, I started last night's cooking session by boiling 16oz of water and promptly filling my new mini thermos. While I'm not a fan of instant coffee, it sure is nice to mix a cup from the comfort of your sleeping bag. Breakfast consists of steel cut oats, dried cherries, and remnants of last night's ramen that were still in the pan. Hey, I'm on vacation and care not for doing dishes. Carrying only 8 liters of water, I must conserve every drop just in case. Solo, long distance motorcycle camping affords certain luxuries



I did mention this was a shake down trip right? While I am getting to know the new bike, I am also learning a slightly different overland style. Traveling by motorcycle offers all of the creature comforts associated with distance backpacking with the added burden of carrying a relatively heavy amount of repair/recovery/riding gear. Fortunately, I prefer backpacking and its spartan accommodations.

I break camp and think happy thoughts of Christmas Pass and beyond, convincing myself that the sand between me and my next checkpoint will be easily conquered. The power of positive thought can get you far. In my case I think went about 300 yards before getting into second gear and another chance at practicing my recovery skills.

It's kind of depressing to unload a freshly packed bike due to poor driving skills The voices in my head begin questioning me “are you sure this is a good idea?”, “why do you have to go alone?”, “shouldn't you practice more before going on such a big trip?”. No, I'm not hallucinating; these were the things my in-laws said to me the day before I left. I always love being sent off with such boosts to my confidence. Practical advice falls on deaf ears once the adventure bug has taken hold though. Still, I probably bit off a little more than I can chew on this one.

I take a break to assess this morning's distance covered and verifying my stunning progress by GPS. Just then I realize that I'm missing my beanie. I walk back to camp to find it hanging on the creosote where I left it. Perhaps this crash was a gentle reminder that I just need to focus on the basics. I return to the bike and remember that I never aired down in my race with the sun last night. I drop the tires to 18 and 20 psi, front and rear. Make adjustments to my seating position so that I keep weight off the front wheel. Pollo Picante rumbles to life once again and we are off for terra firma. Wow, what a difference a little float in the front end does for crossing deep sand. I remind myself that the Camino will be like slab compared to this sandy hell. Spirits lifted and in a mile or so, the sand is a distant memory.



The scenery leading up to Christmas Pass is one of the many reasons I choose to live in the low desert. The pale grey granite jutting out of the low basins makes for good photographs. I do the best I can with my lowly point and shoot to share the memories of the area around Christmas Camp. Go check it out for yourself if you haven't been.



Soon, I find myself at the pass, which is supposed to be the only obstacle of concern. I move right on through without issue, debating about doing it again so I can film it for your entertainment. I decide that this would be inviting the Mr. Mayhem to the party and continue on. A few minutes later, a border patrol chopper sneaks up behind me. Being a sucker for flying shiny objects, I look over my shoulder to see what toy the BP are cruising in now. Suddenly I find myself laying on the trail with a big red motorcycle pinning my right leg to the granite. A stupid mistake on my part which should have been avoided. I quickly kill the motor and make a futile attempt at turning the gas off. I can't move, my leg is locked down. Eventually, I manage to free myself by using my left leg to push against the seat and pull my right leg to liberate it. I dust myself off, hoping my ego is the only thing bruised. Leg and hip are hurting bad, try to walk it off without much luck. Good thing my luggage was soft and boots hard.

I continue on towards Tule Well and have my first BP chat on the trail. He is surprised I made it thru the sand with my bike, telling me they stuck a truck out there last week. He assures me it's smooth sailing from here and the Fortuna Mine area is not nearly as bad as when I have done so far. Like 99% of those I have encountered in the past, this guy is cool and we talk for a long time. I ask him about station life and what the job is like. The hours are long, the pay is low, and the night life in most of the border towns leaves much to be desired for the young guys out here “protecting us from seasonal field workers coming to Yuma to pick lettuce.”

A quick visit to the Tule cabin. I take the time to review the log book, a few pages back is my signature from my last trip down here a few years ago. I really enjoyed that trip and the company of my wife and dogs. You can read about it by clicking on the link in my signature if you dig trip reports. I also notice Charles Wells had passed thru a few weeks ago, perhaps working on updating his popular trail guides.



Pressing on, I make it near the Border wall/Tinajas Altus turn, which has no sign marking its location, thought the mountains point you in the right direction. I cruise out to the wall to mark the official start of the traverse.

I blew past the tanks, etc... I spent 3 or 4 days camping there last time and have some new places to explore.

I run into another BP agent and ask him about Ciaparo Pass/Fortuna Mine. He confirms the road conditions, but says I can't go down there right now due to some enforcement activity. Dang, I was hoping to check out that area and pop out in Fortuna for gas. Without much option, I take familiar tracks to Welton and plan to fuel up since I don't know my trail MPG yet.

Birds and dogs always find the best place to chill

Could have used a pair of these last night.


The most photographed spot on the Camino

The mountains I should have been on the other side of…

And where I'm heading next.

Welton offers few services and no gas, so I take the scenic route thru the agricultural belt between I-8 and the proving grounds/military reservation.

Wellton does have fuel, at Circle K and Chevron and there is a Napa Auto as well. Not much else there.

Thanks to Curly for the updated info on services in Welton.

I see a guy in an old XJ parked on an elevated corner of a broccoli field. I pull up and inquire about the nearest gas station. We manage to communicate with broken English and broken Spanish, both of which I'm fluent in thanks to a public school education. The vibe starts to get a little weird and he gets out of the jeep at some point during the chat. I notice he is holding a 24” long piece of #5 rebar against his leg in a futile attempt to conceal it. I play it cool, perhaps this is an implement used to turn the irrigation valve off or something.

I am sitting on the bike with my front wheel pointed up hill on a steep slope. There is nobody around and I have no idea what this guy's intentions are, but it's not looking good. He tries to draw my attention to something behind me. This is my cue, I eek out a quick adios, put her in neutral, and coast backwards down the hill while simultaneously starting the bike. I can't drive a bike in sand to save my life, but instinct is a powerful thing…and in one of those rare moments that I will never be able to replicate, I manage to execute a swift exit on one wheel as I hit the bottom of the slope. The wheelie was not intentional, could not have been pretty, and the result of some odd physics to be sure. I have tried to pop one several times on level ground, and it is near impossible for me. I'm just lucky I didn't fall while coasting backwards. I safely arrive at a gas station long after the adrenaline wears off and replay the situation in my head a few times. I've put myself in some sketchy situations over the years and never worried, but this one had the hair on my neck standing at full attention.

I've got about an hour of sun left and grab a quick bite after failing to locate a decent restaurant. I have also missed my opportunity to update from the field using the local public library. It's time for my triumphant return to the KofA. The first time I camped there was almost 2 years ago and in the good company of many friends new and old. This time I'm all alone.

Basic progress thusfar

The story continues on Day Three...

 

[agavelvr]

Happy to know you guys are enjoying it so far. What I lack in photographs, I'm trying to substitute with words. I can probably type 1000 words faster than I can make a decent photograph anyhow I had a hard time remembering to take pictures, and what few I did are mediocre. This was a physically and mentally taxing trip, especially being a solo and green to the ways of moto.

Anyhow, I'll try to post a section every day or so until it is done. One of my buddies reminded me to finish writing up my first traverse along the entire length of the AZ/Mexico border. I've managed to cross my home state South to North and East to West almost exclusively on dirt roads and moderate trails. Each trip was fantastic, but the southern traverse is a bit of a crown jewel in my domestic travels since I laid out the entire route by myself and it has a higher degree of isolation. Interestingly enough, both trips were traveled in solo stock vehicles.

 

[RHINO]

nice writing jeff, i'll reading along with interest.

 

[1leglance]

Jeff no worries on the quality of the pics, they are great and the words really bring a feeling of being on the trip with you.
Great job and I am looking forward to reading every bit of it.

 

[zidaro]

sounding like a great trip so far, looking forward to reading about the rest.
thanks

 

[agavelvr]

Day Three – KofA - Wherever I may Roam

And the road becomes my bride
I have stripped of all but pride
So in her I do confide
And she keeps me satisfied
Gives me all I need

Last night as I made my way towards KofA, I picked up my first stretch of mandatory slab totaling about 32 miles if I went the direct route. I made a stop at the gate to the eastern side of the proving grounds that lay just south of the refuge. I figured this would be a good place to ask if there was a cleaver way to get from the Camino del Diablo to the KofA without doing much pavement since the range was technically off limits and in my way. The security guards ask me where I'm heading, to which I proudly announce “the Grand Canyon”. One of them rolls his eyes and says I better get over to I-10 and make my way to Phoenix. No, that is not my intention, I explain that I am trying to stitch together a route composed entirely of dirt roads. Well, that's fine and dandy they offer, but I can not cross the range where they test high explosives. “Really,” I ask; and then explain that I just crossed the Goldwater range where I had to watch a safety video about being blown up, hoping that this somehow qualifies me above the general public. “That's entirely different from what we do here and we can not allow you passage.”

Oh well, it was worth a shot. I quickly make my way over to the tourist trap inside the KofA and make camp somewhere north of it. Passing thru the museum area at night is kind of odd. You pass thru two dimly lit fenced off areas flanking the trail that made me feel like I was entering a forced labor camp. I pitch canvas about a mile down the trail on some beautiful desert pavement.



I'm hobbling around camp like an old man as I set up my ground tent. My knee and hip are in pretty bad shape from the crash earlier. Fortunately I had packed some leftover meds from an earlier back injury With town lights and highway within sight, I give the wife a jingle on my cell phone and catch up on things before drifting off to sleep.

Morning came early thanks to a wake up call from my wife. I break camp quickly and enjoy a no cook breakfast of cliff bar and dried fruit. I spend sometime stretching and preparing for the miles ahead by taking a long walk. Seems I may have packed antihistamine instead of Percocet Knee and hip remind me to take it easy.

Pollo fires right up and I am on my way. The trail was pretty good for a while, and I make good time towards McPherson Pass. Just as I get comfortable, my next nemesis shows up…deep, loose, gravel filling the road bed as it becomes a wash. My front tire has formed an affinity for this gravel and tries to drop me at the most inconvenient times into things like cholla, boulders, or the occasional thorny tree. I bailed hard in a wash near the pass, which required me to unload the bike again. I find deep gravel to be about as entertaining as yesterday's sand.

Once the bike was up, I smelled gas and spotted a trickle coming off the left fender. Crap, what had I done? I turned the fuel off when I crashed, so now I'm worried. Inspection requires removal of the luggage rack and fender. Fortunately, one of the guys on ADV wrote a great thread on tools to carry. I easily remove the necessary pieces to discover what appears to be part of the emissions control system of the bike. A little hose leads out of it and this is where the gas is coming from. Perhaps this leak is nothing more than my full fuel tank overflowing the system due to the crash. I wait about 30 minutes just to be sure before reassembling the bike. I'll have to learn more about this when I get home.




With the bike reassembled, I pick up my yard sale and get on my way. I resolve to conquer the gravel by any technique available. Speeds under 15 mph seem to be the issue, but traveling faster than that is difficult in these twisty washes. Perhaps if I was riding a lighter bike things would be easier, but I must play the hand I am dealt. I continue to muscle thru, putting my feet down as needed to prevent another drop. It's getting hot today at slow speeds with me working so hard. I hear Pollo's radiator fan kick in from time to time and I think we are both looking forward to some open road. The tight trails are really fun, but it is taking a toll.

Eventually I pop out into a gradual downhill near the area I spent Thanksgiving weekend a few years ago. It's smooth sailing from there, with great views all around. I decide to do the entire eastern edge of KofA rather than head over to dripping springs. This would give me an opportunity to see the KofA Mine and perhaps a cabin or two. Besides, I had some tracks to explore to keep this show off the pavement. Unlike the Camino, the area between KofA and Wickenburg has not been formally defined in the traverse and consists of a combination of BLM, State, and private lands. I have my own secret stash of waypoint in need of visiting, so I head East.