Question on wiring lights
- Thread starter stoneydude
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Dirtytires
Explorer
They are decent lights. I had a set two years ago on my 2,5 ton Deuce and they were great additions to
have with the Military OE lights. Definatly use a relay, they do get very hot. I burned my leg on one when I
was using them as worklights.
have with the Military OE lights. Definatly use a relay, they do get very hot. I burned my leg on one when I
was using them as worklights.
stoneydude
Observer
Ok last question. In the diagram it shows the for the 12v power for the switch can I run the wire to an add a fuse connection to the headlights and will that make it so the off road lights only go on when the headlights are on or just the power for the led on the switch?
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SChandler
Adventurer
If I understand you're question correctly, you want to be able to turn the lights on separately from the headlights or have them set to come on when the headlights are on. If that is the case, you need a switch that has three positions: On-Off-On. You would wire everything the same as the diagram, except that you would have an extra wire coming from the hi-beam positive circuit (100-watt driving lights shouldn't be on when on the street with low beams) to the switch. One "On" setting would be to manually turn the lights on (=ignition on +12v), while the other "On" would turn the lights on with the hi-beam circuit (=+12v tapped from high beam). The "Off" setting would mean no driving lights at any time. The rest of the wiring would be the same. At least, that's what I understand from my research into running lights in that configuration.
bfdiesel
Explorer
The ground/brown wire off of the switch is for the LED in the switch. The supply/white wire to the switch is where you want to wire it to your ignition switch or the high beams. It would not be useful/street legal to wire it to the low beams as said above.
If you only want the lights to be able to come on when the high beams are on the white wire needs to be powered from your high beams this would make it so the high beams and the switch need to be on to power the relay therefore powering the aux lights
If you only want the lights to be able to come on when the high beams are on the white wire needs to be powered from your high beams this would make it so the high beams and the switch need to be on to power the relay therefore powering the aux lights
Hilldweller
SE Expedition Society
Add 20% (at least) for resistance.
A 30 amp relay should be fine.
"Decent" means different things to different users.
For instance, OE military lights are seldom "decent" in performance when compared to what's available in the open market.
Photometry on the cheap lights won't compare favorably to a set of good Lights. Materials used in making them won't compare favorably, etc.
I agree. Often times the more expensive lights perform worse than less expensive alternatives; hype, price, and exaggerated performance claims ----- Lightforce comes to mind here; the best placebo effect light on the market.
Do this. If they only come on with highbeams, you're less likely to forget them and blind oncoming traffic.
LexusAllTerrain
Expedition Leader
stoneydude
Observer
Sorry for that butchered question before. I was editing it because I was having problems getting a picture of the diagram to post. Thanks for all the help I think I have it figured out now, it's been a while since I've had to wire something up.
This is how I do all my lights. I have put lights on every vehicle I have owned, and many others.
You will want to make sure they are fed from a keyed power supply or controlled by something like your headlights I normally do both so I can have a manual and auto setting.
For me I take wiring very seriously, as a few pennies pinched can cost you your vehicle very quickly and when I do something I never want to do it again so do it right the first time.
For things like lights I only use parallel bonded, jacketed wire or (duplex brake cable) for everything either 12/2 for the high current side of the relay from the battery to the lights and 18/2 for the switching side of the relay. It keeps everything very clean and easy to route and I HATE split loom.
All my connections into the factory harness are soldered and then heat shrinked, this just ensures that I never have to worry about corrosion on my wires later and that the factory harness is not weakened in any way. I never cut a factory wire to do this I just strip 1/2" of insulation and solder to the wire.
Everything on a vehicle at some point is going to have to come off or be moved so I always use weather-pack connectors at the ends of all connections to lights, fans, compressors, and behind the dash to make easy removal when the time comes without having to cut wires to do things. I also use weather-pack style HELLA relays and fuse holders. I had 10 years on my last truck and I never had to rewire anything or even blew a fuse.
Here is how I have my Fog lights, off road lights, backup lights, and train horns wired in.
The below diagram is for 1 PAIR of lights or up to a 30 load on the relay.
You will want to make sure they are fed from a keyed power supply or controlled by something like your headlights I normally do both so I can have a manual and auto setting.
For me I take wiring very seriously, as a few pennies pinched can cost you your vehicle very quickly and when I do something I never want to do it again so do it right the first time.
For things like lights I only use parallel bonded, jacketed wire or (duplex brake cable) for everything either 12/2 for the high current side of the relay from the battery to the lights and 18/2 for the switching side of the relay. It keeps everything very clean and easy to route and I HATE split loom.
All my connections into the factory harness are soldered and then heat shrinked, this just ensures that I never have to worry about corrosion on my wires later and that the factory harness is not weakened in any way. I never cut a factory wire to do this I just strip 1/2" of insulation and solder to the wire.
Everything on a vehicle at some point is going to have to come off or be moved so I always use weather-pack connectors at the ends of all connections to lights, fans, compressors, and behind the dash to make easy removal when the time comes without having to cut wires to do things. I also use weather-pack style HELLA relays and fuse holders. I had 10 years on my last truck and I never had to rewire anything or even blew a fuse.
Here is how I have my Fog lights, off road lights, backup lights, and train horns wired in.
The below diagram is for 1 PAIR of lights or up to a 30 load on the relay.
BigSwede
The Credible Hulk
Thanks for the diagram, I may use that to rewire the off road lights in the Trooper I bought. I am curious though how you heat shrink a connection like that where you don't cut the wire...how to you get the heat shrink tubing over the wire?
bfdiesel
Explorer
Are you using adhesive lined heat shrink? I am assuming you take a connector apart and slide the shrink down the factory wire.
I use larger self fusing (heat activated sealant) that I cut and place over the wires. With solder there is little chance of the wire getting corrosion even if moisture gets in, hence why all marine wire is tinned.
Hilldweller
SE Expedition Society
I've never soldered a joint nor have I had one come loose. I use Posi-Lock connectors; they let me change my mind and move things around easily.
They exceed milspec and are super easy...
They exceed milspec and are super easy...
TheAlmightySam
Adventurer
Posi-Locks are sweet, but they certainly ain't cheap. Certainly an awesome solution though.
I've always used insulated butt splice connectors, but I use the non-insulated side of a pair of good crimpers (not those janky stamped steel POSes), the side with the little tooth that bites into the connector. Afterwards, I heat shrink the connection to keep water from corroding the joint. Never had one come loose yet.