Superduty V10 vs 6.0
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john101477
Photographer in the Wild
I bought mine with 42,000 and drove it to Idaho where the oil pump went out. got it fixed drove it 15,000 more miles and the injectors went out in the middle of BFE nebraska on my way to a job in Idaho. No warning, no nothin i went from full power to no power with in 5 miles. Limped to next town where I was recommended to replace the fuel filters. Thats fun on asphalt in the summer when it is 95 on the heat index.
Want my advise? dont buy a used 6.0 or gasser from ford. Ironically the last time I was in Cali I seen the Dodge cummins mega cab I had originally looked at and it was still on the road. I should have went with my gut instinct instead of following the money on the truck. Lame
According to the Sinister site that isn't a problem for '03-'04
"It should not cause a check engine light on 2003-04. It may cause a check engine light on 2005-07 however there are a few solutions. On the 2005 you can leave a working EGR valve in place and that should fix the problem. The 2006-07 you may need to add a SCT tuner"
The turbo cleaning and EGT gauge sounds like a good idea too.
That is the bottom line. I passed on the ‘05 V10 and will deal with what I have, but the EGR system must go. I recall that the F-450 and higher offered Cummins 5.9 as an option in '04 - when Ford was aware of the problems with the 6.0 (probably pre-production) they should have dumped International or Navistar or whoever made it and only offered the Cummins. They dumped Bridgestone/Firestone as a supplier but chose to hang on to the 6.0 for 5 model years - no excuse for that.
I have a scan gauge coming so I plan to compare before and after EGR delete to see if there is any difference. I won't have a EGT sensor until after the delete though
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john101477
Photographer in the Wild
That 5.9 was what the Dodge I was looking at had in it. they even had the aftermarket exhaust break from cummins on it. it was a cool truck but I did not push hard enough with the dealer.
RocKrawler
Supporting Sponsor
V10 all the way, much more reliable than the six-oh-no motor. A local diesel shop told me its the most expensive diesel to maintain and keep running. There are v10's with over 700k and still going strong
locrwln
Expedition Leader
No, I didn't do the motor work on my truck. With the EGR gone out, I kept the engine cool with refilling the radiator with water. I had continued towing my Jeep back home to a recommended Ford Tech from a friend. I had the River City delete kit. In review, its probably not hard to get done, but it took 4.5 hrs to go 180 miles keeping the engine cool. I would pull over once I saw the stock temp gauge rise. Let it cool down enough to pour water back in. Then go again.
I think my truck's biggest issue was the injectors themselves, though no issue was scene with analyzers. I had smoking issues at start up (real cold days), heavy diesel smell (warm days), etc.
Other issues for 6.0 owners is the temp difference between oil cooler and water temp. You can get a set of gauges for that or use a plug-n-play digital setup. Many tuners on the market plug into the ECM and provide monitoring gauges with no tuning. Supposedly difference in temp greater than 8-10* creates issues. Computers are all over today's diesel trucks. The programs within those computers direct the operation of the engine.
As others have mentioned, there are other issues on the 6.0. Schafering wiring on the motor grounds/shorts the wire. Turbo has variable vanes and at times, these will get a residue on them restricting the movement. Same for the intake plenum walls gaining residue and restricting the air flow. Exhaust leaks from the manifolds off the heads appears to be gaining popularity.
For the basic upgrades on the 6.0, I would add a EGR delete kit, add cat delete kit and open the exhaust for lesser backpressure(wouldn't run straight pipe). Head bolts/studs if you tow, add hp/torque numbers with tuner, tow heavy loads, etc. Keep oil clean with the micro-filter system, Same for the coolant system. Change out the stock coolant (Ford's) and go with Extended-Life Coolant (ELC) with non-mineralized water. Good set of electronic gauges with a large screen to watch, water temp, oil temp, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Swap in some banjo bolts for the 6.4l into the 6.0l fuel lines into the head. I would look into the fuel filter system as well since the injectors tend to generate issues and its usually related to the fuel instead of the oil pressure. You really want to keep the oil clean as its the power for the injectors.
I'm done with the 6.0l unless I can get it at the price I want it at. I would do a history search as well as take it to a diesel tech for eval and have them do an engine analyzer test. Just don't forget to review in detail the driveline as well. Balljoints, ujoints, and front suspension bushings tend to take wear. Shocks and brake rotors are a big thing as well with a lot of weight up front and little in the back (pickup).
I think my truck's biggest issue was the injectors themselves, though no issue was scene with analyzers. I had smoking issues at start up (real cold days), heavy diesel smell (warm days), etc.
Other issues for 6.0 owners is the temp difference between oil cooler and water temp. You can get a set of gauges for that or use a plug-n-play digital setup. Many tuners on the market plug into the ECM and provide monitoring gauges with no tuning. Supposedly difference in temp greater than 8-10* creates issues. Computers are all over today's diesel trucks. The programs within those computers direct the operation of the engine.
As others have mentioned, there are other issues on the 6.0. Schafering wiring on the motor grounds/shorts the wire. Turbo has variable vanes and at times, these will get a residue on them restricting the movement. Same for the intake plenum walls gaining residue and restricting the air flow. Exhaust leaks from the manifolds off the heads appears to be gaining popularity.
For the basic upgrades on the 6.0, I would add a EGR delete kit, add cat delete kit and open the exhaust for lesser backpressure(wouldn't run straight pipe). Head bolts/studs if you tow, add hp/torque numbers with tuner, tow heavy loads, etc. Keep oil clean with the micro-filter system, Same for the coolant system. Change out the stock coolant (Ford's) and go with Extended-Life Coolant (ELC) with non-mineralized water. Good set of electronic gauges with a large screen to watch, water temp, oil temp, boost, EGT, fuel pressure. Swap in some banjo bolts for the 6.4l into the 6.0l fuel lines into the head. I would look into the fuel filter system as well since the injectors tend to generate issues and its usually related to the fuel instead of the oil pressure. You really want to keep the oil clean as its the power for the injectors.
I'm done with the 6.0l unless I can get it at the price I want it at. I would do a history search as well as take it to a diesel tech for eval and have them do an engine analyzer test. Just don't forget to review in detail the driveline as well. Balljoints, ujoints, and front suspension bushings tend to take wear. Shocks and brake rotors are a big thing as well with a lot of weight up front and little in the back (pickup).
RocKrawler
Supporting Sponsor
The only true fix for the 6.0 is a cummins swap. That solves the entirety of the issues on 2003-2007 diesel super dutys.
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Mountainhound
Explorer
All the hate for the 6.0l how many of you actually owned one? I had an 04 it burnt on me this past febuary with 135k miles and I was never nice to that beast. I loved that truck and if the right one came along I wouldn't hesitate to get another. I loved that truck it was a true work horse.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
I had one, so did a friend of mine I used to work with. Epicly excellent engine when it worked. You just had to be mindful how hard you were pushing it. Going up a mountain at 80mph pulling 11,000 pounds, in 90 degree heat, it'll overheat. But I just back off to normal truck speeds and she'd cool off quick.
Mine had a failed egr, puked out it's coolant. They fixed that. Then it drank all of it's coolant, overheated, warped a head.
My friends 6.0 had no power. The turbo failed.
I blame Internation Harvester for ruining one of the best truck designs ever made.
I'm currently weighing the options for an Econoline, and keep bouncing back and forth between the V10, 7.3, and 6.0.
Coming from a 93 Land Cruiser, I think the V10 would be leaps and bounds better, but my long term plans include interior heating, and would prefer a diesel heater, which means a diesel engine to keep only one type of liquid fuel around (possibly have propane for other things). It would also tow every once in a while, however with a full interior it would be heavily loaded the majority of the time anyways.
Since my budget is low, I'm leaning toward the 7.3 even though it is not intercooled on the Econoline vans. I know diesels overall cost a bit more in preventative and normal maintenance, but I think it would be worth it for a long term vehicle.
If I had an extra $5-10k, I would swing for the 6.0, upgrade the EGR (or delete), get head studs, and add filters for everything when I purchased it, however if it ever did have issues, the emergency cost of repair is the main source of scaring me off of the 6.0. For the most part I think it is an amazing engine, just hamstrung by horrible EPA mandated, quick to market emissions gear.
Coming from a 93 Land Cruiser, I think the V10 would be leaps and bounds better, but my long term plans include interior heating, and would prefer a diesel heater, which means a diesel engine to keep only one type of liquid fuel around (possibly have propane for other things). It would also tow every once in a while, however with a full interior it would be heavily loaded the majority of the time anyways.
Since my budget is low, I'm leaning toward the 7.3 even though it is not intercooled on the Econoline vans. I know diesels overall cost a bit more in preventative and normal maintenance, but I think it would be worth it for a long term vehicle.
If I had an extra $5-10k, I would swing for the 6.0, upgrade the EGR (or delete), get head studs, and add filters for everything when I purchased it, however if it ever did have issues, the emergency cost of repair is the main source of scaring me off of the 6.0. For the most part I think it is an amazing engine, just hamstrung by horrible EPA mandated, quick to market emissions gear.
RocKrawler
Supporting Sponsor
Being in the industry I can tell you that through my contacts with diesel shops they tell me consistently that they make their living on the 6.0 ford diesel engines, that if you can't afford a couple thousand a year in repairs and maintenance alone you should look into a v10 or 7.3, and the owner of one shop says if he didn't do it for a living he would never own a 6.0. That's coming from professionals in the diesel field that know much more than I or most people do.
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