Moisture in RTT while using a Proplex heater.

[Borrego60]

Just wondering has there been any moisture build up inside a RTT while using a Proplex HS2000 heater? Looking to buy one but wanted some feedback on who has one and if any problems had developed. And how did you run the ducting into the tent. I was figuring on running it where the tent flaps are by the hinges.

 

[Borrego60]

bump

 

[mvbeggs]

Propex Ducting- Moisture

Just wondering has there been any moisture build up inside a RTT while using a Proplex HS2000 heater? Looking to buy one but wanted some feedback on who has one and if any problems had developed. And how did you run the ducting into the tent. I was figuring on running it where the tent flaps are by the hinges.

I use that heater with my Chaser and Globetrotter tent. I did make some modifications to the trailer and heater to make it easier to use with my setup. The first modification was to make brackets to mount 2, 11 lb, LP tanks at the rear of the trailer, one on each side. The second modification was to fabricate a longer, 15', heater power cord that allowed powering the heater from the front 12v outlets with the heater setting at the rear of the trailer.

To deploy, I set the heater under the driver's side of the trailer at the rear. In this position, the heater is protected by the tent and trailer from direct contact with the elements. The factory propane supply hose will just barely reach the right side, rear mounted, propane tank. As mentioned earlier, the longer power cord provided power from the 12 volt outlets, located at the front of the trailer.

For the hot air supply, I used the harsh environment duct supplied by Adventure Trailer. This duct runs through the tent's rear flap, using the 2 way zipper to hold it up off the ground. From there, the the supply duct is attached to the tent frame, using some para cord to direct the heated air to the sleeping platform. The on/off/thermostat is run up through the tent and laid next to my head. Placing the thermostat at your head will allow easy access to adjust temperature and turn the unit on or off. (I haven't left the heater running all night....yet. I turn the heater on for 10 minutes before going to bed and for 5-10 minutes before rolling out in the morning to knock off the tent chill.)

For the heater's return air duct I used a 2" PVC coupling, and a 2" to 4" PVC bell reducer to attach a piece of 4" plastic flex ducting to the 60mm dia intake of the heater. I looked for the harsh environment hose used for the supply duct, but only found it in 200' rolls. The 4" flex duct I used, came from the garden section of the local Lowes. It is the black flexible hose used for down spout extensions. I actually like 4" flex duct better than the harsh environment hose because an 8' section of the flex duct compresses to about a foot. The 60mm harsh environment hose isn't as storage friendly. It doesn't compress near as well.







I was worried about moisture build up as well. I figured if I reheated the air from inside the tent, the heating process would tend to "bake out" and dry the air before returning it to the inside of the tent. Plus, I wanted to heat the slightly warmer air from inside the tent instead of heating the outside, colder, air.

It takes about 10 minutes to fully deploy the heater. (including getting it out of the trailer, setting the unit on some logs under the trailer, attaching and routing the duct work and thermostat, and attaching power and fuel) Typically when we left camp in the morning (returning to the same camp that afternoon/evening), I would detach the duct work, power, and fuel lines from the heater and secure the heater unit inside the locked trailer. To re-deploy in the evening takes about 5 minutes.

The heater works great. I just used it for 7 days while hunting in Kansas. Night time lows were in the mid to low 20's. It is much easier rolling out of that nice, warm, cozy sleeping bag to get the coffee and fire going, when you can turn on the heater and warm up the tent to a balmy 50 degrees. I didn't take any temp measurements, but after running the heater for 5-10 minutes it seems to warm the tent up 20-30 degrees. Again, no measurement, but you could definitely feel a temp difference climbing down from the higher sleeping platform to the ground side of the tent.

This was probably waaaay more than you wanted to know. :Wow1:

Feel free to fire any more questions my way.

 

[Borrego60]

Thank You very much for the information that was a big help. Check your PM'S

 

[bob]

Thanks for the information. I am going to install one in my trailer as I am getting the hunting crowd calling about them. Elk season is normally in cold areas and they need a warm place to sleep.

 

[Borrego60]

Well I used my heater during the Toy for Tots campout and it kicked butt. Flipped it on before we went to bed and warmed up the tent pretty fast. Sleeping bags were still cold so I ran the duct into the bag for a few seconds and did not look back. Nice little heater worked great. I did extend the propane hose to 12ft and the electrical to 20ft. How flexable is that harsh envioment hose? what is the length out and stored? It the high 30's to very low 40's at night. I wonder if you can use the plastic hose for the hot air output, without worry of it melting. I only comes out at about 125 degrees I do no think it is hot enough to melt the hose,but maybe a problem releasing chemicals from the plastic. The hose that comes with the kit needs some serious insulation for heat loss.

 

[mvbeggs]

... How flexable is that harsh envioment hose? what is the length out and stored? It the high 30's to very low 40's at night. I wonder if you can use the plastic hose for the hot air output, without worry of it melting. .....

Harsh environment hose is not very flexible. You can probably bend it in a 12" radius without kinking it. It is also not very compressible. I'd say max compression is about 5%-10% of its length. Mine is about 6ft long. I don't compress it when stowed.

Glad to hear it worked well for you. I don't have any complaints about mine either. It's a nice piece of kit.

 

[haven]

Be careful running a propane heater inside a camper or tent. Outside with a hose, as described above, is much safer.

One of the byproducts of burning propane is water vapor. In a camper that is closed up tight you'll get some water condensing on cold surfaces when you run a propane heater. Water vapor is also part of your breath when you exhale, so if it's wet in the camper, the solution is to increase ventilation.

Carbon dioxide is the other major byproduct of burning propane. If you experience dizziness or headache, propane combustion could be the reason why. get outside into the fresh air, and ventilate the camper.

Under conditions of low oxygen, burning propane can produce carbon monoxide. Make sure your heater has a source of air from outside to prevent this.

 

[Borrego60]

I am well versed in the CO2 aspect and would never run this inside my tent. Just the hot air the furnace produces, which is to be inside the tent.Not the flame exhaust,that is why the heater unit is outside.

 

[bob]

I am installing mine in the back of the trailer with exhaust out of the trailer and the vent into the sealed area. I asked Propex about this and said it would work fine. Do you guys agree?

 

[Borrego60]

I would say that should be fine, asking Proplex is as good as it gets.

 

[kb7our]

Here's a link to a bit of a different kind of install for a future Habitat camper shell that will mount on the Jeep - basic Propex unit without the portable case for a permanent install. I'm using high temp silicon hose for the hot air exit. Love the heater - it's a great and very safe little unit that works wonders for personal comfort! Although I'm in AZ where moisture is not generally an issue, I've done some extensive testing running the unit for days with the soft top on during rains and I do recirculate the heated air for maximum toast without any condensation problems whatsoever. Compared to something like an Olympic Wave or Heater Buddy which give off lots of water vapor by design, there is just no comparison. The Propex is quite simply warm, dry heat.

See post 67:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/59908-Jeep-Wrangler-Habitat-Official-Release/page7

 

[Martyn]

Be careful running a propane heater inside a camper or tent. Outside with a hose, as described above, is much safer.

One of the byproducts of burning propane is water vapor. In a camper that is closed up tight you'll get some water condensing on cold surfaces when you run a propane heater. Water vapor is also part of your breath when you exhale, so if it's wet in the camper, the solution is to increase ventilation.

Carbon dioxide is the other major byproduct of burning propane. If you experience dizziness or headache, propane combustion could be the reason why. get outside into the fresh air, and ventilate the camper.

Under conditions of low oxygen, burning propane can produce carbon monoxide. Make sure your heater has a source of air from outside to prevent this.

Well stated. Everything you mention is correct, and everything is why people should consider using a heat exchange system where heater air and combusted air do not mix. The issues you mention primarily come about when heaters use combusted air as the source for the heated air.

The "Hot Box" Propex portable is designed to sit outside the tent and uses a flexi hose to funnel the hot air into the tent. The combused gases are exhausted are vented outside away from the air intake for the heat exchanger. CO readings on these units have registered zero on the exhaust gases on all tested units. The only time Co has appeared in the exhaust is when the unit has been disconnected for 12 volt prior to the shut down cycle being completed.