I am a retired electronics technician from Boeing and have some experience with these batteries.
The most comprehensive tests you can perform on an Optima are charging at 5 or more amps (this depends on the ah capacity of the battery) until the voltage reaches 15. If it doesn't reach 15 OR the temperature rises above 125° F then the battery is likely defective.
If it reaches 15 volts and you have a charger that you can switch to constant-current it should continue to charge for one hour at one amp or until the voltage no longer rises whichever comes first. If you don't have the ability to accomplish the above procedures then simply charge the battery until the voltage stops rising. REMEMBER to never allow the battery temperature to exceed 125° F.
The load test should be performed only after the battery has been fully charged. The preferred load should be about or above 50 amps and the battery voltage should not drop below 10 volts for at least 10 seconds. If you don't have a load tester and don't want to buy one you can simply put the battery in a vehicle and disable the ignition so it won't start. Have someone crank the engine and watch the battery voltage closely. If it drops to or below 9 volts the battery is defective.
I have two Optima D31M's in the bed of my Toyota truck and a 12 year old yellow top under the hood. They are all three in parallel most of the time but I can disconnect the rear from the front with a 100 amp circuit breaker so I can always start my engine.
Something I have noted about earlier Optima batteries and is still true to some extent is that while they can withstand vibration, the case is more vulnerable than a hard rubber case and if you drop one more than an inch or so it will probably crack. If the case cracks and you don't notice it and seal it, if possible, the battery will dry out and once that happens it is now a boat anchor or wheel-weight.
The most comprehensive tests you can perform on an Optima are charging at 5 or more amps (this depends on the ah capacity of the battery) until the voltage reaches 15. If it doesn't reach 15 OR the temperature rises above 125° F then the battery is likely defective.
If it reaches 15 volts and you have a charger that you can switch to constant-current it should continue to charge for one hour at one amp or until the voltage no longer rises whichever comes first. If you don't have the ability to accomplish the above procedures then simply charge the battery until the voltage stops rising. REMEMBER to never allow the battery temperature to exceed 125° F.
The load test should be performed only after the battery has been fully charged. The preferred load should be about or above 50 amps and the battery voltage should not drop below 10 volts for at least 10 seconds. If you don't have a load tester and don't want to buy one you can simply put the battery in a vehicle and disable the ignition so it won't start. Have someone crank the engine and watch the battery voltage closely. If it drops to or below 9 volts the battery is defective.
I have two Optima D31M's in the bed of my Toyota truck and a 12 year old yellow top under the hood. They are all three in parallel most of the time but I can disconnect the rear from the front with a 100 amp circuit breaker so I can always start my engine.
Something I have noted about earlier Optima batteries and is still true to some extent is that while they can withstand vibration, the case is more vulnerable than a hard rubber case and if you drop one more than an inch or so it will probably crack. If the case cracks and you don't notice it and seal it, if possible, the battery will dry out and once that happens it is now a boat anchor or wheel-weight.