Rover Classic, which year or model is best?

[livetoride]

I have been a long time land cruiser owner and fanatic, but I just sold my FZJ80 and I want to get a RRC. Is there a certain year that is better? I found a 1990 in mint condition with 100k on the clock that is stock, but I could scoop it up for 4,500. I have also found a 1992 LSE with 137 on the clock. It has an OME lift, front and rear ARB bumpers, PIAA light, new Bosch plugs, new heater core, and more. I could get that for around 6,000. I also found a 1991 Great Divide Edition that is all tricked out as well with only 88K on the clock, but that one would be around 9K. Should I look at some 95' or are all these years pretty similar in terms of reliability? Any help and suggestions is much appreciated and can't wait to join the forum.

[repete]

There are a few things you should consider when looking at buying one.
A transfer cace that you can manually lock (LT-230) 1987-88. newer ones came with the Borg Warner with a viscus coupling. b-w ones are commonly converted to the LT-230 if you plan to wheel it much.
ABS? Starting in 1990 ABS was an option on County models. (maybe some others too)
Power? 87-88 3.5L, 89-95 3.9L, 93-95 LWB 4.2L
Length SWB 100" LWB 108" (wheel base)
Look out for rust in the rocker areas, tail gate, and transmission tunnel areas.
I will say anything earlier than 1993 will have less electronicly controlled componants, BUT I would not let that scare you.
Also, Be sure you check to make sure the heater works, motor nice and quiet, and works in ALL speeds! You do NOT want this to be your first repair!!!
Good luck!

[Rovertrader]

In addition to the above, I believe they had 10 spline axles through '92?? After that went to 21 spline, same as Discos and Defenders. Seems the most preferred are pre ABS with converted Tcase to Lt230, or '95

[BKCowGod]

Those prices all seem high. My '93 has working air suspension, a clean interior, no rust, a very strong engine and transmission, etc. It cost me significantly less than $1000.

I prefer the LWB because I can fold up the seats and sleep comfortably in the back. The '95 has a much more modern HVAC, but I prefer the looks of the older interior. 4.2 gets the best mileage (depending on who you ask).

[Gore Ranger]

I have a 1989. Many consider that the best year. 3.9 motor, no abs, has the BW but I have switched to LT230. Far fewer electronics than later models. As you know, maybe look in AZ and CO for good, dry, rust free ones. I guess Utah salts their roads :-)

[repete]

In addition to the above, I believe they had 10 spline axles through '92?? After that went to 21 spline, same as Discos and Defenders. Seems the most preferred are pre ABS with converted Tcase to Lt230, or '95

I forgot about axles! I always thought that 93 was the first year for 24 spline, BUT my brother lost a diff in his 94 LWB. I planned to send him the one out of my parts 93. To our surprise, both the 93 and 94 had 10 spline axles!!!???
My only answer to this is Rover probobly had both 10&24 in their transition year to use up old stock. Who knows?

[Laxaholic]

I love the Range Rover classic...one day, I'll find one.

[BKCowGod]

I forgot about axles! I always thought that 93 was the first year for 24 spline, BUT my brother lost a diff in his 94 LWB. I planned to send him the one out of my parts 93. To our surprise, both the 93 and 94 had 10 spline axles!!!???
My only answer to this is Rover probobly had both 10&24 in their transition year to use up old stock. Who knows?

Could have been a swap. At this point, so many of these rigs are Frankenrovers that you never know what you'll find under the hood. A few months back there was a thread where someone had a whole extra fuse block that wasn't anywhere in the RAVE.

[dcwhybrew]

I have been a long time land cruiser owner and fanatic, but I just sold my FZJ80 and I want to get a RRC. Is there a certain year that is better? I found a 1990 in mint condition with 100k on the clock that is stock, but I could scoop it up for 4,500. I have also found a 1992 LSE with 137 on the clock. It has an OME lift, front and rear ARB bumpers, PIAA light, new Bosch plugs, new heater core, and more. I could get that for around 6,000. I also found a 1991 Great Divide Edition that is all tricked out as well with only 88K on the clock, but that one would be around 9K. Should I look at some 95' or are all these years pretty similar in terms of reliability? Any help and suggestions is much appreciated and can't wait to join the forum.

RR "Classics" are beautiful cars and very capable in stock form before bolting on all the crap. There's lots of advice on this forum, however I want to direct you to another forum to use as well (not instead of). Look at rangerovers.net That site is 100% focused on RRs from the very beginning to present day Rangies. They have a lot of resouces that are RR specific. In addition to using ExPo, Discoweb, and the other usual suspects (websites), check out rangerovers.net

Here's the obvious link to the main webpage www.rangerovers.net
Here's a link to the buyer's information page, which will give you all the details about the respective year models. http://www.rangerovers.net/rrbuying.htm
There forums are helpful too, with a subforum for each Range Rover iteration. www.rangerovers.net/forums

Regarding your question about what year is best? That answer is going to be relative to how you want to use it. If you want a basic platform to heavily modify, maybe you want the earlier year models 87-89 (90 or 91)? They have the coil suspension, distributor, etc. Anyway, go look at the website above and it will give you all the information you want to know about the RRs. Once you know the vehicle year model differnces, you can get an idea of what you want based on how you want to use it. Then you can start digging in to personal opinions about what is best for what.

Also, understand that RR reliability isn't the same as Toyota Land Cruiser reliability. You just need to know that you will likely (not definitively) have more headaches with a RR. So my suggestion is, buy the cleanest, best maintained example you can find. LR drive trains are robust if they are maintained properly. Fortunately if they haven't been, they can be repaired pretty easily (depending on the job). Land Rovers (up until MKIII Range Rovers and LR3s) have never been "buy and forget about" vehicles. They require attention if you are to depend on them.

Lastly, regarding price...Land Rovers definitely fall in to the "you get what you pay for" category of cars. Odds are, skimp on cash on the front end, you pay for it at the back end. So, again buy the nicest, most well maintained Range Rover you can find. And yes, you can expect to pay high $1,000's, and even low $10,000 for well maintained RRs. The values of the clean examples seem to be appreciating.

Just my opinion. Good luck and congrats on finally buying a car with some class. Once you find the right one, you'll become addicted (which should be another caveat). I had a 1991 RR that was in pristine, showroom condition. Litterally. The interior was perfect, it was mechanically perfect, the exterior was in great shape (not perfect). I received a significant amount of attention from the general public, whether I was at church, getting gas, at Walmart, wherever. The RR design, especially a very nice Classic, is a very unique car.

So let us know what you get and post up a lot of pics. We like Rover porn.

[James86004]

I agree with dcwhybrew. Far more important than the year is the condition. We have owned 3 and the best one was the one we bought from a guy in Scottsdale who took it to the dealer for every tiny thing. It had 300,000 miles on it when we sold it.