I think magazines, and now websites as well, have to deal with a viewing base that is pretty broad. This site has some pretty hard core travelers. But it also has people, like me, who just camp a few times per year.
A magazine or website can't really cater to any specific group. I like reading about a lot of the high end products as much as I like reading about the many of the trips I know I'll never take. But if all the reviews dismissed anything that couldn't handle a trip up Everest, it wouldn't really help all the plain-Jane campers out there. Likewise, if all they reviewed were Coleman and Ozark Trail camping supplies, that wouldn't be very helpful to the people who have higher spec requirements. But both have their place.
In the most recent Overland Journal, they reviewed roof racks. Of the four or so, they actually made note on two - one as "Best" (or their pick) and one as a "Value." (although it was still a $1000 rack). I think that's a better way to review products when you have a diverse base.
I think of Fridges like winches: A $1200 Warn winch may be the "Best" winch, at least for somebody who uses one all the time in remote places. But a $300 import may be the "Best" for somebody who may use it once a year and wants cheap peace of mind "in case" they ever need it.