Just bought a Superduty.
- Thread starter Buliwyf
- Start date
911regular
Adventurer
Sorry, not meaning to hijack thread,,,,can the electronic solenoid be swapped out for the manual linkages or does the whole t-case need to be swapped?
If you do a google search there was a guy who fabbed a bracket and lever to his electric shift case, but there were questions about it sealing properly or becoming clogged with mud, etc. Might be better to swap cases even though there is some labor involved. Shouldn't cost much in parts though as you will essentially just be exchanging cases.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Yes, $300 in parts, 5 hours labor.
But good luck finding a Ford Superduty, or any decent truck for that matter, in the junk yard that still has an unmolested drivetrain. The Nv271's are well known and great for divorced Xfer case 4x4 builds. Not to mention that the entire drivetrain can be sold to reman companies.
But good luck finding a Ford Superduty, or any decent truck for that matter, in the junk yard that still has an unmolested drivetrain. The Nv271's are well known and great for divorced Xfer case 4x4 builds. Not to mention that the entire drivetrain can be sold to reman companies.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Update!
My truck is back. New engine is in. Feels like a brand new truck. I don't get why some folks think the 5.4 is weak, I'm taking it easy because the engine is new and this thing has plenty to give. Feels like it'll be about as strong as the 6.0 Chevy in my van. If it's as good as that......
Pics:
Please ignore the tripping boards and the girly tires. The tripping, er...running boards will be removed soon. Maybe I can trade the boards and the regular mirrors that were in the back seat for some XLT head light assemblies:
Really needs a Warn Transformer 2 up front, don't you think?:
I'll be adding a Wet Okole seat cover on the front bench. Vinyl is too slick and sticky for me, and the classic Ford But wrinkle has got to go:
I just replaced the windshield wiper pump. Really easy. Just remove the battery and battery tray. The window washer resevoir is attached to the battery tray. The pump is removed without tools. The pump was weak on the freeway drive home. It's amazing how dangerous snow travel is without a washer pump working right. The salt drys on the windshield and you have to rear-end a semi to get enough road spray on the window to wash it off. If you have an old Superduty this may be a nice 30 minute $20 piece of mind to replace before it fails. I should have taken pics, but it's such an easy part to replace it isn't needed.
I replaced the wipers at the same time.
I just ordered brakes for the front. The front rotors are a bit warped or have enough pad material bedded into them to feel warped. And they were a bit grabby. It was hard to be smooth and avoid the pulsation, but then stop without being to aggressive. So these brakes are going in the scrap bin.
Next Saturday I'm installing:
Napa Ultra Premium Rotors (the ones with the rust resitant finish where the wheel mounts up)
Napa Ultra Premium Pads (metallic, not that ceramic junk)
New Caliper pins
Speed bleeders
Brake fluid.
Should be fun. I'll try to get more pics for anyone who deosn't think they want to tackle superduty brakes. So far thy look like the easiest brakes I've ever done. (Except for being the heaviest brakes I've ever done short of an 18 wheeler)
Another bit of good news: I found the dealer sticker. This truck has the optional 4.10 gears! This is really good if I lift the truck and put 35" tires on next year. The 4.10's won't be so terrible until I can afford to dump in 4.56 and a Detroit locker. 285-75 r17 Goodyear Duratracs might tide me over until I lift it.
My truck is back. New engine is in. Feels like a brand new truck. I don't get why some folks think the 5.4 is weak, I'm taking it easy because the engine is new and this thing has plenty to give. Feels like it'll be about as strong as the 6.0 Chevy in my van. If it's as good as that......
Pics:
Please ignore the tripping boards and the girly tires. The tripping, er...running boards will be removed soon. Maybe I can trade the boards and the regular mirrors that were in the back seat for some XLT head light assemblies:
Really needs a Warn Transformer 2 up front, don't you think?:
I'll be adding a Wet Okole seat cover on the front bench. Vinyl is too slick and sticky for me, and the classic Ford But wrinkle has got to go:
I just replaced the windshield wiper pump. Really easy. Just remove the battery and battery tray. The window washer resevoir is attached to the battery tray. The pump is removed without tools. The pump was weak on the freeway drive home. It's amazing how dangerous snow travel is without a washer pump working right. The salt drys on the windshield and you have to rear-end a semi to get enough road spray on the window to wash it off. If you have an old Superduty this may be a nice 30 minute $20 piece of mind to replace before it fails. I should have taken pics, but it's such an easy part to replace it isn't needed.
I replaced the wipers at the same time.
I just ordered brakes for the front. The front rotors are a bit warped or have enough pad material bedded into them to feel warped. And they were a bit grabby. It was hard to be smooth and avoid the pulsation, but then stop without being to aggressive. So these brakes are going in the scrap bin.
Next Saturday I'm installing:
Napa Ultra Premium Rotors (the ones with the rust resitant finish where the wheel mounts up)
Napa Ultra Premium Pads (metallic, not that ceramic junk)
New Caliper pins
Speed bleeders
Brake fluid.
Should be fun. I'll try to get more pics for anyone who deosn't think they want to tackle superduty brakes. So far thy look like the easiest brakes I've ever done. (Except for being the heaviest brakes I've ever done short of an 18 wheeler)
Another bit of good news: I found the dealer sticker. This truck has the optional 4.10 gears! This is really good if I lift the truck and put 35" tires on next year. The 4.10's won't be so terrible until I can afford to dump in 4.56 and a Detroit locker. 285-75 r17 Goodyear Duratracs might tide me over until I lift it.
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BCHauler
Adventurer
Great truck! 08-10 is my favorite year of super duty. And I'm with you on the 5.4 it does just fine. FYI, the only rear suspension difference between the 250 and the 350 is the size of block ford uses, 1.5" for the 250 and 3.5" for the 350. Super cheap and easy lift for the back.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
Thanks. I am considering using F350 rear blocks and a 2.5" BDS lift. But after the cost of blocks, shocks, 2.5" kit, and an adjustable front track bar, It's not really much less than a basic complete 4" lift kit. A BDS 4-link 4" kit and 315-70 r17 tires may be in my future.
I plan on adding Firestone air bags for my trip to Florida this year. Will be towing a 9000 pound trailer back. Most likely I'll remove the airbags when I get home and shelf them. It's only an hour or so to remove/replace them. I can leave some of the brackets and air lines in place.
The truck feels alot like an old early '80s Ford or Chevy. I'm really enjoying it.
Now if I can just find someone to turn off the darn TPMS. I had a leak that triggered it. Fixed the leak, but it takes a long time for this to clear. And apparently it kicks an idiot light on for after market tires.
I may need to run 70/80 psi in these cheap girly Firestone tires it came with to keep the rims off the ground. But when I switch to some real tires I won't need that much pressure unloaded. More like 60psi. I'm not sure if the TPMS will allow that.
I heard that there may be 65psi sensors I can install in my wheels to replace the 70/80 sensors. That would mean that these senders are more like switches than true sensors. Possibly just sending a high or low signal, open or closed. If they could actually send the exact pressure to the ECM then Ford, knowing how Ford operates, would use the same senders on all vehicles. Ford uses a ton of the same parts and wiring harnesses on many of thier vehicles.
I may try 70/70 or 65/65 when I'm at the warehouse changing my front brakes next week. And just run that for a week and see if the truck will reset and become accustomed to that pressure.
I plan on adding Firestone air bags for my trip to Florida this year. Will be towing a 9000 pound trailer back. Most likely I'll remove the airbags when I get home and shelf them. It's only an hour or so to remove/replace them. I can leave some of the brackets and air lines in place.
The truck feels alot like an old early '80s Ford or Chevy. I'm really enjoying it.
Now if I can just find someone to turn off the darn TPMS. I had a leak that triggered it. Fixed the leak, but it takes a long time for this to clear. And apparently it kicks an idiot light on for after market tires.
I may need to run 70/80 psi in these cheap girly Firestone tires it came with to keep the rims off the ground. But when I switch to some real tires I won't need that much pressure unloaded. More like 60psi. I'm not sure if the TPMS will allow that.
I heard that there may be 65psi sensors I can install in my wheels to replace the 70/80 sensors. That would mean that these senders are more like switches than true sensors. Possibly just sending a high or low signal, open or closed. If they could actually send the exact pressure to the ECM then Ford, knowing how Ford operates, would use the same senders on all vehicles. Ford uses a ton of the same parts and wiring harnesses on many of thier vehicles.
I may try 70/70 or 65/65 when I'm at the warehouse changing my front brakes next week. And just run that for a week and see if the truck will reset and become accustomed to that pressure.
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You can go to the hardware store and get yourself a 6" long piece of 3" PVC. Put your TPMS sensors in it and cap it at both ends. Add a schraeder valve to one end and inflate to whatever PSI makes your dash light go off. Then you throw that thing in your toolbox or under the seat and forget about it forever. Thats my solution to larger tires and troublesome TPMS sensors.
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Marathon seat covers.
Consider www.marathonseatcovers.com. I've had them on three trucks now. They'll outlast the truck. They use Dupont Cordura which is highly water and dog resistant and wear like iron. This small company from Montana that employs legal residents will mail you three fabric samples. The optional rear and front pockets are indispensible once you've had them. Nice build.
Consider www.marathonseatcovers.com. I've had them on three trucks now. They'll outlast the truck. They use Dupont Cordura which is highly water and dog resistant and wear like iron. This small company from Montana that employs legal residents will mail you three fabric samples. The optional rear and front pockets are indispensible once you've had them. Nice build.
911regular
Adventurer
Super chips also makes a programmer to adjust for different sized tires and disables the TPMS,, corrects your speedo for tire size increases.
Buliwyf
Viking with a Hammer
I'm going to pick up the SCT programmer. I'm going to need to scantool/ recal tire size/ recal gear size/ turn off TPMS. Wouldn't hurt to put a slight tune on the engine as well.
My front brakes are in. I'll try to put those in this weekend. Looks too easy. The rotors are bigger than a Louisiana hat! All Napa premium and some Richland Speed Bleeders.
Just ordered carpet with sound insulation, seatcover, and floor mats. Enought to brighten up the XL interior. I was actually having trouble driving with my feet sliding on the slick rubber floor. The old rubber floor is
starting to wrinkle up and dissolve. It's making that classic "old rubber floor smell". I was tempted to put in a new rubber floor, but decided to splurge and go a little plush.
Now I can't decide if I want to upgrade to the XLT aero Headlights with a decent bulb upgrade, or install Hella or Cibie H4 lamps in the stock headlight assembly? I keep hearing that the XL headlight assemblies are actually in demand for offroaders and campers due to the Hella H4 type lamps available for a better low beam.
I want to improve the low beam if possible. I'll eventually have a Lightforce Blitz 240 connected to my highbeam circuit.
I think I might try a couple lights from here, If I decide not to go the XLT light upgrade:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
I'll make the relay harness myself, but I'll check my voltage drop at the plug. If my drop is very little I may stay stock. A 60/55 watt bulb is what I think the max street legal wattage is:
http://store.candlepower.com/h4hb29003bulbs.html
My front brakes are in. I'll try to put those in this weekend. Looks too easy. The rotors are bigger than a Louisiana hat! All Napa premium and some Richland Speed Bleeders.
Just ordered carpet with sound insulation, seatcover, and floor mats. Enought to brighten up the XL interior. I was actually having trouble driving with my feet sliding on the slick rubber floor. The old rubber floor is
starting to wrinkle up and dissolve. It's making that classic "old rubber floor smell". I was tempted to put in a new rubber floor, but decided to splurge and go a little plush.
Now I can't decide if I want to upgrade to the XLT aero Headlights with a decent bulb upgrade, or install Hella or Cibie H4 lamps in the stock headlight assembly? I keep hearing that the XL headlight assemblies are actually in demand for offroaders and campers due to the Hella H4 type lamps available for a better low beam.
I want to improve the low beam if possible. I'll eventually have a Lightforce Blitz 240 connected to my highbeam circuit.
I think I might try a couple lights from here, If I decide not to go the XLT light upgrade:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
I'll make the relay harness myself, but I'll check my voltage drop at the plug. If my drop is very little I may stay stock. A 60/55 watt bulb is what I think the max street legal wattage is:
http://store.candlepower.com/h4hb29003bulbs.html
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