Expedition Portal: The Land Rover 109 IIA Build

[MattScott]

If you're friends with Expedition Portal on Facebook, yesterday you got a sneak peak of our newest project vehicle. A 1971 Land Rover Series IIA 109.


Somewhere along the line, the differential housing was painted red, this will be fixed.

The Series Land Rover is genuinely one of the most iconic overland vehicles ever produced. In my opinion, of all the variants of the Series that were produced, the 109 reigns supreme for overland use. It's longer wheelbase yields a more comfortable ride, and allows for more cargo capacity, for an extended trip, the 88 just wouldn't have enough room for me without relying on a roof rack. The 1971 Model year represented the last year for the SIIA, and some say, the most well sorted. It was replaced in 1972 with the SIII; both models have their advantages. The SIIA is the most common and also to some considered to be the most robust. There are some parts I'm told are desirable to take from a SIII and transplant to a SIIA.


Pith Helmets are optional - Smiles are mandatory. I'm torn between removing the decals, and leaving them. People seem to think they're cool.

I'll be honest with everyone - I am not, nor am I pretending to be an expert on the mechanics of vintage Land Rovers. I appreciate the simplicity of the design and the mechanics. It's comforting to me to know there's no computer I need to depend on to start this vehicle; I can even crank start it if need be! I'm hoping over the build of this vehicle I'll be able to work with the community to do the right upgrades and replacements to make this a great vintage overlander.

I bought this particular specimen based on some solid advice I got from forum members, here's what they told me to look for:

• Solid Frame - Check,
• No Excessive Bulkhead Rust - Check, it's mint.
• Overdrive - Check, it came with a Fairey Unit.

This vehicle also has the Safari top, which will be much appreciated in Arizona



The Build

This isn't going to be a zombie apocalypse vehicle - I've already done that. I'm attempting to build a clean, reliable vintage overland vehicle. I'm not building a period correct Series - a lot of technology has changed since this vehicle has been build, if I can improve the vehicle, I'm going to. For example, I can fit a modern alternator to create more power for on board accessories and gear reduction starter for those cold mornings. I'm also looking into ways to install sound deadening to help with NVH

Stage One - The Baseline

This is a 41 year old vehicle. Fact.

Even though Land Rover claims that over 70% of it's vehicles are still on the road; I don't want to be part of the other majority. This truck has some great things going for it, It has a recently rebuilt engine that pulls strong, a new fuel pump, and a tuned carburetor. This morning it started without hesitation in freezing temperatures, more easily than some newer vehicles that I now. It has already been fitted with OME parabolic springs and OME shocks in the rear. That being said, it also has some things that aren't going for it - It needs a new brake servo, the rear differential is whining - and some of the interior parts have seen their share of better days. It has some small wiring issues that need to be taken care of, the fuel gauge isn't functioning and neither are the turn signals.

Preventative maintenance is key with a Land Rover so I'm all ears to what everyone thinks should be replaced to create a reliable vehicle.

Stage Two - Modifications

I'd like to build a clean interior storage system that still fits the original lines of the interior. It would be a bonus if it would double as a sleeping platform.

The plan isn't to lift the vehicle any higher than it sits stock; 215/85/16 tires will be fitted.

The factory axles are a weak point, I'm trying figure out if it makes more sense to swap a Salisbury rear end, or to upgrade the differential to a 24 spline with HD Shafts. Either way, an ARB differential will be fitted to the rear to aid with traction.

Stage Three - Overlanding!

Use the vehicle! We're going to be planning a big trip in the vehicle.

[Ray Hyland]

The beauty of the SII is the simplicity. For that reason I prefer to keep them as stock as makes sense. It also (often) saves money on future repairs.

So for the rear, I'd fit a simple LSD or auto-locker, and keep the stock half shafts and stock wheel size. It will look correct, and the Overdrive will help you get a reasonable highway speed on the stock tires. (the 2.25 will struggle a bit if you go with larger tires). If you drive it with care, with the stock tire size, you shouldn't need to worry too much about breaking half shafts. Again, we are talking an overlanding vehicle that will follow dirt roads across the desert, not a Moab rock crawler.

If you fit two good batteries in parallel then you shouldn't have any cold start issues, even with the stock starter motor.

There are some very very good sound dampener kits pre-cut for this truck. I would consider one of those kits and a look at the rear diff as good starting points Matt.

Overall I think it looks great, very tidy, and I can't wait to get in there and help on this one.

[Flagster]

very nice...I had been drooling over that truck on CL if it is the one advertised in Prescott?

[dstuder]

Wlecome back from the "dark side" Matt.....

[WU7X]

If there is one major mod I could entice you to do, it would be to swap out that POS 4 banger engine and tranny and replace with a nice straight 6 Chevy and 4 speed. The original engine is underpowered, eats gas, and is unlovable. When I did my restoration many years ago, I even tried a brand new Turner 2.25L and was not impressed with the results. There are lots of examples of engine swaps on the internet. Please think about it.

Everything else is uncomplicated and pretty easy to repair in the field Get used to the Joe Lucas, Prince of Darkness cracks you will soon become overwhelmed with.

Can't wait to watch your buildup. Have fun. Wish I had kept my Wentworth wrenches. I would have sent them down to you.

Dale

[JeffRRC]

Love it, love it, love it!

[Rovertrader]

Great truck!! Contact Mary Ann on here, and chat with her- she drives hers, has driven it for many years, and is an all around Series nut... We also have a fella locally that has had his S-IIa for 20+ years, and is his DD- they are the real deal for sure. I just found a S-II owners manual and shop manual I had tucked away- if interested, pm me.

[Christian P.]

Great choice Matt. Now let's take it to meet up with NoLimitX for their vintage expedition in Guatemala...

[LR Max]

Are the seats any good? I can tell ya right now, if you sit in them and your butt doesn't stop until it hits steel, they are going to suck. Replacing seats are magical.

Pull the gas tank and have it cleaned. This will prevent a lot of crap (literally!) in the future. On that note, blow out the fuel lines and install an inline fuel filter before the carb. Always carry a spare mechanical fuel pump.

Does it have a Ducieller (sp?) distributor? If so, pull that out and kill it with fire. If you get it within 5 miles of water, it craps out. Replace with a Lucas 45D4 with a Petronix unit. I don't know anything about the Lucas 25 unit, so I am unable to comment.

Yeah, a chevy 6 or a V8 with a 5 speed is better, but if the 4 banger is rolling, keep on keepin' on.

Research the AC Delco Alternator swap. The stock alternator doesn't put out a lot of power and I bet you boys will want to add a bunch of toys. Obviously, this can be an issue. However with the AC delco swap, you can get what you need without killing the bank...or get an alternator out of an XKE. That is what I did. Bolted right up, even the plug fits.

Watch the fluid level of the Fairey like a hawk. If you let it go down, it'll kill the bearings and then the darn thing will sound like 25 million crickets being murdered at the same time.

New windsheild wiper arms. You'll thank me.

The rear axle, just ride it until it commits suicide. Then install a salisbury with a detroit. Cheap, easy, strong. Oh and forget the ARB because you won't notice the detroit in the rear. I haven't noticed mine for the last 10 years. No extras, no air lines, just works.

Noise cancelling earphones and ipod. Once again, you'll send me a fruit basket.

New front vent seals and new door seals. Upgrade to defender seals.

Go with "anti-burst" door latches. I think they work a lot better and don't burst open.

Go get you a pair of new 7" halogen headlights and wire them up with a pair of 30 amp fuses + relays. Then you can see!

What carb are you running? If you aren't running a rochester, you should run a rochester. It'll wake up that 4 cylinder in a heart beat and you won't see any worse MPG. Go with a cone-style filter too. Easier to clean than the oil bath. Also a little bit of HP gain, but more for convenience.

Speaking of which, also install a 2" exhaust from the header all the way back. Just a BS-whatever-cheapo muffler. Just go to a whatever muffler shop and have them install that for you. NOT A FLOWMASTER DEAR GOD NO. The with the 2", you'll notice better power and it'll still be quiet. DO NOT remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Well, unless you like being hot. Exhaust wrapping the exhaust is also nice.


Carry spare starter solenoids. Fin.

The mean green starter brings the awesome since we are talking about that. I know you can hand-crank start this bad boy...but you don't. No sir.

Dome lights. Trust me.

Oh and back up lights. REAL backup lights. A pair of cheapo little lights will do wonders when you are performing your 61 point turn at 1am at night.

Bellhousing drain plug. Having just killed my clutch and throwout bearing, this thing is no joke. Before mud, dust, sand, whatever. Take the .05 seconds and pop that in.

Spin on oil filter adapter...or ignore if your armpits love having used motor oil in them.

Replace the TRE's from the steering box to the steering relay. When they go out, they provide all kinds of negative emotions (AKA death wobble)

Oh and just go ahead and replace that steering relay and pitman arm. It brings severe depression when they strip out.

When you all of a sudden loose power and the engine runs like crap, check the usuals but then pull the #4 spark plug. It'll be fouled. Oh and carry a wire brush because you'll use it for everything electric.

As a long time 109 owner and driver, I can offer up this advice and also if you have any friends who have trouble being a man, drop them off in the middle of nowhere with this thing and that'll fix them. Or your son, it'll teach him what he needs to know REAL QUICK. Good luck and I hope to wheel with you one day.

[Alaska Mike]

I'd go with the ARB if you're going to spend any time on slick, off-camber surfaces. If not, the Detroit is a robust unit.

That said, I'd install an 8274 on the front and call it done. Lockers get you into trouble (worse stucks, breakage...), but winches get you out. If I could only have one or the other, I would go with a winch every time. Besides, you can always move a winch to another vehicle if you sell the Series. I just think that other than a PTO winch, an 8274 is the only one that looks right on a Series. I have ARBs F/R, and I use them (ask Scott Brady about the mud up here), but the winch gets far more use. Just think of what the Camel Trophy did with open diffs (not that they wouldn't have wanted lockers).

I like the Seriestrek axle shafts, especially if you're not planning on upgrading the engine. A 24 spline Disco 3rd member, the shafts, and you're done.