Early model pathfinders?

[LaOutbackTrail]

I'm thinking of making my second vehicle a 1990-95 Pathfinder. 4wd, 5spd, 4dr, etc.

What might you folks say about that? Any years with particular problems? Any resources for them?

Gracias.

[CaliMobber]

That be a good choice, just make sure you check for frame rust. I read alot of them had rust problems, so when i went to buy one i looked at the frame and it was rusted all the way though. I could put my finger through the frame. The engine is kinda weak but its solid.

[LaOutbackTrail]

That be a good choice, just make sure you check for frame rust. I read alot of them had rust problems, so when i went to buy one i looked at the frame and it was rusted all the way though. I could put my finger through the frame. The engine is kinda weak but its solid.

I use ebay to kind of spark interest and see whats out there... I noticed a lot of them mentioned alot about rust. I have seen several in texas without rust (and texas is close to Louisiana) so that shouldnt be a problem.

I'm no longer interested in a "strong" engine... my family and I have had our share of chevys and I hate to say it, but the little 22r in my 85 4runner was my favorite. I'm more interested in reliability.
I would get another early 4runner, but I want/need 4doors.

Is there something I should be worried about with automatic transmissions on the pathy's? I'd prefer a manual anyways... but if there arent any choices....

Thanks for yalls help.
Scott

[bigreen505]

Rust is the biggest issue. They changed something in 93 or 94 and the later model years seem to have more problems with frame rust. The steering system is weak and they eat steering components. To my knowledge there is no real solution. I think going with an aftermarket front end like Total Chaos that replaces everything has some merit. Get to know Mike and Jane at 4x4parts.com (Automotive Customizers), they are your new best friends. Also, plan to replace the bushings, they do wear out, but I'm not sure I can recommend going with poly because they squeak bad -- every poly bushing needs to have a zerk tapped into it. Also, see if you can find one without a LSD in the rear and put in ARB's, ideally front and rear. You can not put an ARB locker in if you have a LSD, the the LSD's are clutch based and the clutch packs wear out after about 50k and are about $500 to replace. So even if it says it has a LSD, it really doesn't. At least not enough left to be of value. The OME suspension is nice and the only one I would recommend, but try to avoid aftermarket torsion bars unless you are putting on a winch and ARB bumper.

Overall they are pretty solid trucks. I decided to part ways with mine at about 330,000 miles because I need more room. I replaced the Pathfinder with a Trooper and I have to say the Trooper is simply a better rig for my needs.

[vengeful]

Sorry, but I'm going to pick this post apart....I hate seeing misconceptions delivered as fact. You are not completely incorrect, but there is some misinformation here that could be misunderstood, and I need to clarify.

Rust is the biggest issue. They changed something in 93 or 94 and the later model years seem to have more problems with frame rust.

Partially true. Nissan updated the interior of them for 93. It's a nicer interior. The frame didn't change. 90-92 are just as suceptible to catastrophic frame rot as 93-95.

The steering system is weak and they eat steering components. To my knowledge there is no real solution. I think going with an aftermarket front end like Total Chaos that replaces everything has some merit.

There is a solution...or at least was. There used to be a company that made replacement steering kits for about $350, and it would solve all the issues the Pathfinder steering had. Unfortunately, they are no longer in business. There is an individual in Texas making a similar system.

Get to know Mike and Jane at 4x4parts.com (Automotive Customizers), they are your new best friends.

Can't argue with that...

Also, plan to replace the bushings, they do wear out, but I'm not sure I can recommend going with poly because they squeak bad -- every poly bushing needs to have a zerk tapped into it.

True. Poly bushings tend to squeak a lot moreso than Rubber bushings, but last longer. Rubber bushings are only available as part of a complete suspension member from the dealership, so a full set will run you a ridiculous amount of money.

Also, see if you can find one without a LSD in the rear and put in ARB's, ideally front and rear. You can not put an ARB locker in if you have a LSD, the the LSD's are clutch based and the clutch packs wear out after about 50k and are about $500 to replace. So even if it says it has a LSD, it really doesn't. At least not enough left to be of value.

Not even close. The ARB locker replaces the entire differential carrier, so it doesn't matter whether it was an LSD or open diff. The ARB will go into either one. You are thinking of the Lockright locker that requires an open carrier. The Lockright is a full-time mechanical diff locker that replaces the spider gears in your open differential for a fully locked, non-selectiable differential. They can be had for under $300.

The WD21 (1987-1995) Pathfinders had a very strong LSD from the factory, but the clutch packs tend to get gunked up rather quickly. It is an easy fix though. Simply take apart the LSD and thoroughly clean the friction plates and friction disks, and it'll work like new.

The OME suspension is nice and the only one I would recommend, but try to avoid aftermarket torsion bars unless you are putting on a winch and ARB bumper.

The AC Suspension lift kit is a solidly built kit that will give you 3" of true suspension lift. I would highly recommend looking into that as well.

Overall they are pretty solid trucks. I decided to part ways with mine at about 330,000 miles because I need more room. I replaced the Pathfinder with a Trooper and I have to say the Trooper is simply a better rig for my needs.

Pretty solid? As long as you don't have frame rot issues, and the engine was properly maintained from the beginning, the only thing you have to worry about is the Timing Belt. I know of quite a few running around with more than 500k miles, and a couple over 750k. Be very scrutinous with the search though, as Frame Rot is a major issue. If you plan on keeping it for a while, find one with maintenance records. If you find some that seem interesting, I'd be more than happy to check out some classified ads for you and ask all the key questions to the seller.

As far as Pathfinders go...you'll find everything you ever wanted or needed to know about them...and a lot of things you never thought you'd want or need to know, at the Nissan Pathfinder Off-Road Association.

Dan the Pathy Man.

[bigreen505]

Interesting points from Vengeful.

As far as frame rot, it is good to know that my perceptions are wrong, but I never saw a 92 or older with frame rot. 95's had it in spades. One other place very prone to rust is the area under the rear seats.

Regarding the comments on the ARB locker, that must be something new. Mike's first instructions to me on getting ARB lockers was to find front and rear third members from an XE. Do your own research there.

I'm personally not a big fan of the AC springs unless you are putting a ton of weight in the truck. The OME firm springs still ride okay empty, the AC springs are just stiff. If you are putting in some permanent weight like drawers, refrigerator or subwoofers, the AC springs are fine. Also, I didn't mean to slag the Sway-a-Way torsion bars, but they have to go on at the same time as a bumper and winch, otherwise the are too stiff. I had the Sway-a-ways and AC 1.5" springs and unless the truck was fully loaded it was unbearably stiff.

You might PM Vengeful and ask for a good source of Pathfinder info, cause you won't get it here. The BN Guy runs a Nissan board. There is a Pathfinder board that used to have some pretty good folks on it (IPORA or something like that). The AC board was excellent many years ago but has long since deteriorated into a typical testosterone fest filled with people who only go there to show you how cool they are. Who knows, might be better now.

[bigreen505]

You might take a look at my mod thread for my Pathfinder. It is a pretty honest account of what I thought of it. We bought it new, I sold it in June.

[vengeful]

I believe the reason that you may have seen fewer earlier Pathinders with frame rot than the later ones is that Nissan switched from a powdercoated frame to a painted frame. So, yes, in some respect the later ones were slightly more prone to rust sooner. That said, I have seen just as many 90-92s with extensive frame rust as 93-95s. If frame rust is the only thing swinging your model year preference, I would go with a 92. In my experiences, I have seen the fewest 92s with extensive frame rust than any other year. However, like I mentioned, Nissan updated the interior in 93. It has been said on several forums that the 93 was the best year for WD21s, but thats coming from a bunch of 93 owners...take that as you will.

As far as the ARB locker is concerned, there was early speculation that installation in an LSD diff would pose issues, but that has since been resolved. I would recommend an SE for the 4.625 diff gears and better optioned interior.

Good luck on your search.

[mike h]

You should look at the 1997+ Pathfinders as well - I think they are a great improvement over the earlier ones. Unless you really want the body-on-frame design to do a 4 inch lift, the second gen pathys drive better, wheel better, have much nicer, larger interiors. Mine is pretty much rust free. My webpage has a lot of pathfinder info...and its for sale. You could just buy mine and have a well built rig right from the start!

mike

[Big Daddy Chia]

you do know the AC system is just an unpainted rancho set up.