1998 Suburban - check what before you buy?

[Skidmarkart]

Howdy all... LONG time lurker, first time poster. I have enjoyed this site for years, but having not owned a truck/UTE to expedition in, I have never posted. Many an hour has been squandered here vicariously living through others travels and builds. Alas, the time has come to take the plunge again.

I have owned several trucks, do a bit of wrenching, and I am pretty proficient at sorting out a used car. However, I am not very familiar with the 1998 Suburban 1500. I am off to look at one tonight, and I wonder if (in additional to what I can read in this forum between now and then) any owners might be kind enough to give me any tips on what to look out for in this used car. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Skidmarkart]

Oh yes, if anyone knows any other forums or resources that I could investigate, I'd appreciate that info as well.

 

[Saiyan66]

1/2 ton or 3/4 ton? That year 1/2 ton I have experience with as I drive a 99 Tahoe currently, so I will give advice based on that assumption. If its a 3/4 ton then maybe some other people can chime in with some more help. I am going to also assume that you are looking at a 4wd. Ok here goes nothing.

The Vortec 350 is a great motor: plenty of power, reliable, decent fuel mileage. If it sounds and feels like its running good then there probably isn't much else to investigate on the engine side of things. Obviously check the fluids and if the owner has maintenance records thats a big plus.

The 4L60E transmission is good as long as it hasn't been overheated, so try and powerbrake it and see if the tires will spin or the transmission slips. You should be able to spin them fairly easy. Ask the owner if he does any towing and if so what is it and how heavy.

The steering is one of the main wear items for this year range. If it has stock tires you might be ok, but the idler arm and associated components wear fast with big tires and if there is steering slop you can count on having to replace those pieces.

The brakes for this year are not that great. They have horrible feel (like standing on a giant marshmellow), and most likely need some work to get them in shape. A few aftermarket parts here make huge amounts of difference.

The body is pretty straightforward. Make sure all the doors line up and the latches and strikers are not worn too badly. A little silicone spray lube goes a long way on latches and hinges. If it has a rear hatch make sure it will release from the switch on the dash and the key in the rear tailgate. Also the hatch should latch down tight and not wiggle at all, if it doesn't then the latch or bumpers are worn. If it has rear doors, just check them like any other door.

The interior electrical components can be issues sometimes. Check all 4 power windows (if equipped), door locks, headlight switch, radio, etc.

Transfer case will be either switch on the dash (Autotrac case) or lever on the floor. Either way make sure that you can hear or feel the t-case engage and then wait a few seconds for the viscous coupling to heat up (that's how the t-case couples to the front diff) and see if the 4wd works. Check the front CV shafts for torn boots or leaking grease.

The frames for this year are prone to surface rust even in non salt climates, so make sure it isn't too bad.

That's about all I have for now. Just remember to be a smart shopper and if your gut tells you something is off, have the foresight to walk away.

 

[1911]

The two Suburbans I bought new near that vintage were both plagued with chassis electrical problems before their warranties were even finished. One of them had an exhaust manifold that kept getting loose. So I would say, check to make sure the windows all roll down and up and if the door locks work, and if the cabin and gauge lights and speakers all work. I gave up on them (and GM products in general) after that and bought a Toyota Sequoia that is still in the family and trouble-free after almost 300,000 miles. Good luck with your search.

 

[Skidmarkart]

Thanks so much! Great info in both posts.

I am pretty sure it is a 1/2 ton (though I do not know for sure). I do know it is a 4WD LT 1500. Pretty sure it has the push button 4WD. Bone stock. Also has new brakes, radiator, a few ball joints and ties as well.

I hope to do a very mild build, maybe a 2-3 lift and some larger tires (not a lot to explore here in Chapel Hill, beside college ball game tail-gates and the occasional trips to the blue ridge mountains).

I wish I could afford a Sequoia! I am just getting a 3rd vehicle on the cheap. BUT, we still have a 1991 Suburban in the family with 300k on the clock. I think it still has the original trans and no engine rebuild.

And, I am the former owner of a Range Rover Classic... surely the electrical probs can't be as bad as that. I am still smarting from a $600 power seat repair that happened the day before a new buyer was supposed to pick that rig up.

It was a little parting shot from the Rover that summed up our relationship nicely.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[bftank]

yes a 1500 is a 1/2t.

you might check this thread for ideas, http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/50335-93-Suburban-Chillin-Out!?highlight=suburban

 

[4x4x4doors]

If its 1500, it's 1/2 ton. The 3/4 would be 2500.

 

[82fb]

These are so cheap right now, can't go wrong. I bought mine in June. 170K, but in perfect condition. Strong engine, no coolant in oil or vice versa. Tranny fluid clear and smelled good, brakes were good, had a rear main seep(not enough to make me want to fix it) 4wd 1500 for $3200 Drives great, and since I bought it I added 295/75r16's with no lift. I have heard them rub two or three times very mild. I also have had to change the water pump, and while I had it apart I went ahead and changed the alternator, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, power steering pump, heater hose quick connect, serpentine belt fuel filter.

In addition to changing the water pump, I have had two issues. Both related to the heater hoses. On the passenger side inner fender there are two heater hose connectors. One is a T, the other is a Y. They are plastic and they each degraded and broke within two weeks of each other. The heater bypass valve in the same location is also plastic and so I changed it at the same time even though it had not broken.

Right now, my brakes are not working as good as when I got it, so I plan to rebuild the rear drums soon. Might just be out of adjustment and need some lube.

Overall, a great truck and with the repairs and preventative things I have done, I expect good service from it. I drove it 3500 miles over Christmas vacation and it is a great highway cruiser!

Oh yeah, I also tow a 24 foot travel trailer with it, and while not a powerhouse, it does just fine.

In my crystal ball, I foresee rebuilding the transmission sometime in the next 40,000 miles since I tow a lot, and I would not be surprised to have head gasket issues sometime in that same time frame, and I expect to have to drop the fuel tank and replace a pump sometime. But with the low purchase price and the nice condition of the vehicle, those things just aren't gonna irritate me too much!

 

[BCHauler]

Great thing about the fuel injected 350, is that you can get relatively decent v8 gas mileage compared to other v8s.

 

[Skidmarkart]

Well, she turned out not to be the one... too many plastic bits were broken (drivers side door handle, several little interior bits) electrical issues (locks didn't work well), and there were a couple of engine issues (coolant was low, no intake gasket replacement). it's a shame though, the overall feel was really tight and solid - just too many issues I don't want to fool with... it was a good deal 142k for $4k obo.

The search continues...