Building custom soft top for the LJ

[squint]

Jeff, your top looks absolutely beautiful. I really want to see one in person some day. The Jeep community deserves such options
On the window corners, I agree, they are difficult but there are a few techniques for accomplishing a flat surface or at least getting very close. The big manufacturers just use heat and glue and obviously, I don't have access to that equipment, nor is that the look I am going for. There are 90 degree binder attachments out there that make curves less difficult, which helps flatten the window but it will not totally solve the problem. Using a straight binding like your top is the best way to go but, again, provides a slightly different look than I am going for. If the choice ends up being right angles, I will probably sew and tuck in the fabric as on my wife's wind jammer- this might even be the easiest option of all.

There is also bias binding which stretches a bit (although not as much as you would hope), and after experimenting, the thinner window plastic is more of a challenge than sewing around thicker plastic, for instance 40 gauge. The thinner plastic (30 gauge and under) hangs much straighter and is much clearer. The OEM manufacturer of Jeep tops uses 40 Gauge, which is more durable but has it's short comings as mentioned above. Decisions... I think I will keep experimenting with the small rear windows until it looks just right, then I will move forward with the rest. Part of the joy of this project is forcing myself to think up new ideas to create the desired result.

[irish1371]

ya know I really need a new top for my LJ and have been sitting on hold for you to finish this up so YOU can start mass producing I'll take one in black please

[squint]

ya know I really need a new top for my LJ and have been sitting on hold for you to finish this up so YOU can start mass producing I'll take one in black please

I have a factory top for sale

[Jim K in PA]

Looking good Squint. I think the square cornered windows will look fine, but this is a subjective point. I really like the way your top is mimicing the old Series LR tops, and the roll up sides with square windows will continue that look.

I think I see it in the picture, but are you using the OEM cross bar at the rear tail gate? Are you going to incorporate some sort of rain flap above where the gate contacts the rear panel? I know out there in Dryland you don't have to worry about water intrusion too much, but I do.

[squint]

Looking good Squint. I think the square cornered windows will look fine, but this is a subjective point. I really like the way your top is mimicing the old Series LR tops, and the roll up sides with square windows will continue that look.

I think I see it in the picture, but are you using the OEM cross bar at the rear tail gate? Are you going to incorporate some sort of rain flap above where the gate contacts the rear panel? I know out there in Dryland you don't have to worry about water intrusion too much, but I do.

Good question Jim... I had a design- a new tailgate bar which involved awning c channel and the male side (piping) along with two types of weather seal, however one part was missing, which would have been special order. Even then, it was difficult to be sure of a perfect fit once it arrived. Since moving forward was a priority, the OEM tailgate bar was reduced so that lays only 1" or so past the rear door on each side, and then grinded/sanded/polished at the ends. The new tailgate bar would sit about 3/16ths higher than the original, therefore the stock tailgate bar was fastened 3/16th higher than the original with the intention of replacing it with the new design in the future without having to lengthen the rear window. Right now, it is hermetically sealed, even though it may not appear that way. With the new design, a slide on weather strip (not glue-on) would be slipped over the top of the tailgate to push against the bar (hence, the material is shorter there so that it does not "catch" on the weather seal in the future). Lengthening the bottom of the sailcloth in front of that weather stripping/tailgate bar is definitely a possibility. What is not visible are the the brackets. When cutting/bending them, I used heavy gauge sheet metal (the same size as the factory brackets) however since the factory tops most likely use a bending process which retains strength, theirs is does not bend. As a result, bending it by hand has already caused it to bend up by about 1/4 inch. A long L bracket is already constructed that will be riveted on the weak side resulting in a bracket that is both twice as thick and stronger than the stock bracket. This is part of the reason why you can see more weather stripping there than intended. Once that bracket is reinforced, I may add some webbing at the bottom, but for now, it does keep out the rain since the weather stripping has some "give".

[squint]

Playing around with some zipper ideas for the rear... I don't think a flap will be needed because the rear gets the least amount of rain when driving. I tried soaking the zippers below under the spray nozzel at the kitchen sink for a while and after a couple of minutes a tiny seep came through the zipper but that was only after I opened it and sprayed directly on the zipper itself. I can always add a flap on the inside later if necessary.

[JPR4LFE]

I have a factory top for sale

I might be interested in this if you don't have anyone line out. I sent you a PM

[squint]

Replied
With regards to rolling up the rear window and for that matter, rolling up the entire rear and quarter panels as a whole, taking into account the thickness of the material surrounding the zipper is crucial. In the pic above the center zipper was selected both for the aforementioned reason as well as for looks, however, just as a backup to possible seepage, the addition of some binding to the back side of the zipper (which will look exactly like the front) should keep everything dry in the dampest of conditions.

[squint]

Did a huge amount of work this week, although you can't see most of it...
Pulled the whole top off.
Added flaps above rear quarter panels, heat sealed all zipper ends and straps, added hanger straps and buckels, added two rear zippers, sewed an extra seem to secure rear velcro strap, etc....







An exciting moment- I was able to roll up the windows.









And of course, the entire rear can be rolled up or zipped off:
I probably could have done a better job, but it is hot out there!

[squint]

Any opinions on two side windows versus one long side window?