I see a lot of Cognito's stuff at my dealership. The only thing we've really had an issue with is their HD tie rods, the inner end will start popping/get loose as fast as the stock stuff does. I've got one of the top Dmax guys on the west coast working for me, he's fairly well known in the desert racing scene so we see more than our share of GM/Chevy Dmax's that are usedabused by desert racing teams for chase trucks.
Coan Racing/Dust Junkies Racing, 2012 Baja 1000 Class 1700 Champs
Dust Junkies Racing/Fat City Racing, 2010 Baja 1000 Class 1700 Champs
Fat City Racing/Dust Junkies Racing, 2009 Baja 1000 Class 1700 Champs
The difference between the Cognito kit and the Camburg kit is the engineering, quality, and attention to detail behind it. The Cognito kit is designed to be an almost factory like part, that allows for a proper geometry when cranking up the torsion bars. However the Camburg kit is designed to correct the geometry as well as enhance the strength and extend the travel of the front end. If you look closely at the arms themselves the Camburgs have much nicer welds, plate gussets on top of the pivot/arm junction, 1.25" uniballs (larger than anyone else's arms at this time), and proper length high quality flush mount hardware to attach to the spindle. It is this type of attention to detail that you are paying for. We all know that larger tires + off road driving = dead ball joints. The uniballs will never need replacing (when taken care of properly) and can handle just about any tire you can squeeze in there unlike a standard ball joint. The Camburg arms are made of 4130 chromoly not just mild steel like the Cognitos. This makes for a stronger product as well. The Camburg arms are more capable of supporting larger tires in off road environments, and should you decide to upgrade the front end more at a later date (maybe 2.5" shocks and high angle CV's, upgraded tie rods) they will fully allow you to take advantage of those components. Camburg does also offer the tie rod upgrade which is pictured on the truck shown on the website. Calling them is best as they often offer products that don't show up on the website for some time.
Camburg properly sizes all of their hardware, which most companies do not. On high stress parts you will often hear people talk about shank length of bolts. What this means is that if you have two parts that you need to bolt together that total 3" in thickness, you would need a 3.5"-3.75" long bolt to have enough thread to get the nut on. However with conventional hardware the threads on a bolt of this size would be 1.5" long. That means the shank length would only be 2"-2.25" in length, not enough to have the strongest part of the hardware completely through and supporting the two parts. The solution to this is to buy hardware that is either too long for your application and then cut off the excess thread (leaving you with the full 3" of shank length) or to buy expensive properly sized hardware (Camburg does this). If I had a picture it would be much better than trying to explain it.
Once again, I wont say that the Cognitos are bad. If you just want to correct the geometry after cranking the torsion bars they will work just fine. People on this forum tend to load their vehicles heavily and drive many miles off road with oversize tires so for those reasons I think the Camburgs are a more fitting product. And no I don't have any affiliation with either brand.
Last edited by Saiyan66; 02-12-2012 at 05:49 PM.
Thanks. That explains a lot. That's the kind of information I was looking for and the stuff Camburg should put on their website.
I have another friend with Camburg's on his 4runner and he too has gone through at least one set of uni-balls in approximately 20k of use.
Nothing against Camburg, but uni-balls are made for racing, where they can be replaced after every race, not for use in the real world if you expect them to last for a long time. The rest of their arm looks great.
2007 2500hd, Max/Alli, Hawk FWC (the new explorer)
Build thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...07-Chevy-Build
2006 Jeep LJ Rubicon
Build thread: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...006-LJ-Rubicon
That would be a deal breaker for me.
Uni-balls and coil-overs don't stand a chance in Utah's salty winters thats all I know
91- F350 CC - 7.3-IDI IH diesel - ATS Turbocharger - ZF 5speed - 1981 Four Wheel Camper
98- Toyota UZJ100 Land Cruiser - triple locked
79- Toyota Hilux 20R 4x4.
My Gypsy wagon buildup: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=38047
Yeah I guess I am spoiled living in Cali where I don't have to worry about salt and ridiculous freezing conditions.
So the trucks stance is going to be finished today. 2" blocks going in the rear to give me the factory stance again (I personally like the factory rake...) The final result should sit the truck 1" higher in the rear, with an over all lift of 2-1/2 to 3" over stock with the larger tires. My pitman and idler arms were worn bad, so in is going a set of the MOOG "problem solvers. I want to add the cognito support kit, but that will be at a later date. I'm also throwing on some tie-rod sleeves. With the slightly-larger-than-stock tires, this should make my front end as bullet proof as a DMAX front end can be. Next month will hopefully be the bilstein 5100, and possibly new bump stops on the front end.....An end is in sight. I'll post pics later when I get them. Oh, and of course the alignment's getting done today as well....
Mine- 2003 GMC Duramax http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...family-manners
Hers- 1978 Powerwagon
"It's impossible to soar with Eagles when you're surrounded by turkeys......."
Nice build, really like that bed shell. Getting ready to start my build soon so alot of great reading in this thread.