XJ Suspension question for experienced overlanders

[AFSOC]

I use my 99 XJ as a DD and for mild trail riding, I'll rack up a few hundred miles at a clip but not "expeditions". My rig has a tire swing on back and a sheetmetal bumper with M8000. I use stock points and geometry. The bumpers, skids, sliders and camping gear increased the rigs weight so I selected OME heavy springs. I am happy with the ride and resistance to lean or body roll, overall it's well mannered on the road. The suspension flexes pretty well though I have been running 31 inch tall tires which necessitates bump stop adjustments, I am sure there's more articulation potential than I am allowing. The OME springs come without bushings, press in OEM style rubber rather than poly to keep from transferring road noise up through the unibody. I also used Rubicon Express adjustable LCAs with rubber bushings to keep things quiet and riding nice.

I don't have experience with other brands of XJ suspension but am very satisfied with the components I selected. Every aspect of my rigs suspension improved over stock with the installation of the OME springs and shocks. I hope my experiences are helpful.

[njjeepthing]

I have some experience in this topic! Having had a few XJ's, I would recommend a 3" lift and 31's. Put in a set of selectable lockers or tru-tracs and you will be all set.

This is my 98 Classic with 31's on the Rough Country 3'" kit, with AAL.

Tires clear fine, ride is a bit rough, components seam ok for the $$$.

This is my old 01 XJ with a RE 3.5 kit, full rear spring and 31" Duratrac's with OME shocks.

Ride was great on road and off. Definitely would go this route again if I was building again and the budget allowed!

The RC for the $$ is hard to beat, but I don't know how it will hold up over time and abuse, the Red XJ was good to us, took us everywhere we wanted to go with no issues, except the RE disco's aren't the greatest.

[bat]

I would help but I am not an experienced Overlander

[briboki]

Stock (or so) height but built heavy duty...hd rear springs, shocks, jks quick discos, etc... with 30" tires (I have them on now with no rubbing)

DPG/OME 2" basic and jks discos and 30" tires

DPG/OME 2.5" Deluxe and 30" to 31" tall tires

RC 4.5" x-series (may or may not need a hack n tap SYE) with 31" to 32" tall tires

In your experienced opinions, what would you recommend for best overall capability and durability? I really just want to spend the money and time once and move on to other things the Jeep will need.

Thanks!

I went with a 2" OME kit from Dirk. I went with OME leafs, coils, and shocks. JKS trackbar, JKS discos, JKS lca's, JKS rear ubolt plates, and JKS front stainless brake lines. Dirk's front bumpstops and disco cables. I ended up needing an SYE with only 2" of lift. I didn't try a tcase drop as I didn't want to sacrifice ground clearance. Before adding the SYE I shimmed the rear axle back to factory angles with no luck. Changed the ujoints with no luck. No problems after the SYE. The Chrysler 8.25 is rumored to be more vibe prone than the D35. I figured if I wanted to go to 3" of lift I could do the OME AAL and 1" coil spacer up front. I had to install a YJ rear brakeline as my stock one was going to rip off if I flexed it. I removed the rear sway bar. I had to source all the bolts/hardware as none of it was included with my lift. The JKS rear ubolt plates allow for fine tuning of the rear bumpstops.

The XJ drives like stock. I have the newer OME nitrocharger sport shocks. They are a little firm for my taste around town, but they soak up big dips and bumps very well. Very comfy at speed. The XJ flexes very well. I wanted to stay under a 31" tire for now because I didn't want to regear right away, and I wanted to fit my full size spare in the stock location (and not buy an expensive bumper with tire carrier).

If I was going to do it over....

If I wanted to run 31" tires right now:

I would look hard at a Rubicon Express 3.5" kit with OME or Bilstein shocks with the trackbar of your choice. If you really are going to load the XJ down with heavy bumpers, a winch, sliders, armor, etc. the RE kit should net you about 3.5". It seems like the people who get more than advertised lift have "light" Jeeps. The RE spring rates are a little higher, but if your jeep is loaded down it should ride just fine. I could have bought a Rubicon Express kit with OME shocks + an SYE kit (with driveshaft) for what I have into my OME lift with JKS goodies.

If I wanted to run a 30" ish tire right now:

I'd keep my OME lift, and look for a deal/sale on a trackbar and control arms. The JKS stuff is very nice and beefy, but pricey. Dirk sells JKS stuff with his kits.

[shauncondit]

I think the RE 3.5" superflex with bilstein 5100's would be perfect and I have experience with Bilstein from my old days of living in San Diego and going to Anza Borrego..as hard as I was on those shocks for many many miles, they NEVER failed me .... but unfortunately that puts me a bit over budget, around $1100-$1200 after all is said and done and unfortunately I need to stay around $800 or less for this round because I also have to get a new steering shaft since mine has tons of play form the bushing and I'm thinking of upgrading to the borgeson shaft at a cool $270

The 3" RC series 2 looks like a good option, but there seems to be as much negative feedback as there is positive with quality.

Since I can't swing the RE supeflex and Bilsteins, I am thinking more and more about the DPG OME basic 2" ... even though it is just a front coil spacer ... then add other components (jks or currie) to it as the year goes on. If nothing else, I'll know it's good quality stuff

[BigAl]

For your described use, I'd put in rear springs for the load you plan, and 2" spacers in the front. I would spend the rest of the money overhauling the cooling system. The stock cherokee set up is marginal for normal use.

[Stumpalump]

I also followed the herd when I built my 98 XJ. OME (Tiawan) from DPG with JKS discos and JKS short arms. Man that was cool untill I got to using it. Coming from a heavily dependent on suspension sport (Motocross) I felt betrayed. I did research and found out that there was not a single suspension company that had the slightest clue on the most basic aspects of suspension. (Spring rate, compression and damping.) I was blow away by sites like naxtard that did not even yeild basic info on suspension other than height and trimming fenders. I started calling Jeepspeed race teams and got in contact with the Deaver and Bilstein reps that knew XJ's.
Your build is mild and simple and you can slap on any non performing kit you want and will have "lift". Want proof that 99% of the lifted XJ's are built wrong?? Look at pictures of them flex out on the trail. The front is flexed to the max and the rear is not. When flexed the roof line is not paralell to the grond because the uneven spring rate forces the Jeep onto an angle. On vids watch how fast the front blows thru it's suspension travel because it's way too soft. Don't even get me started on short arms so I'll just say that any xj that is not stock needs long arms of your choice. Without them it's not possible to get rid of the jarring and not possible to get the articulation you need for a decient amount of travel out of a low lift. I like Claytons because they are the strongest and once installed you never touch then again. Springs on front you have one choice from negative lift to 5.5". Deaver Jeepspeed coils. Cut them to the height you want with a cutoff wheel. Don't buy any other coil unless you find a Skyjacker 8" coil that youi plan to cut. They are OK. Rear does not matter because you can put in or take out as many of your stock leafs to get them right as you need. I use DPG OME 2.5" springs but they now have 8 leafs. I'd try the Jeepspeed Deaver spring pac for the rear if you have the coin but if not build a pack that gives you the height and bottoming resistance you need to cycle your suspension from an OME pack. Don't cut your u bolts yet and keep leafs handy. 30 minuts to swap leafs in or out if you don't unbolt the main spring. Use a JKS rear shackle.
I don't have the numbers for the shocks but the cheapest one you want is the Bilstein 5150 for the rear in that 255/? valveing. You can use the same for the front but you should step up the price range and go the next valving higher on the 7100's. Take all this to the bank if you want to load down an XJ and drive it in all conditions. It's not that much more expensive to go from just a lift to a performance suspension system that works extreamly well. It's also worth it just to watch Rubicon owners struggle on sections you just eased thru and to have some piece of mind that your rig can handle a 75mph hiway manuver. Spend some time and good luck with your build!

[bat]

I would start with the tire size that is going to set the stage for how much lift, bump stops and how much cutting will be needed. Anything over 31" is going to cause problems if you what full articulation with the small wheel wells an XJ.

[cshontz]

I highly recommend a fixed-yoke conversion with any amount of lift. Driveline vibrations may or may not be perceived with such a minimal ride height increase. However, this modification will help preserve driving-comfort, and minimize wear-and-tear by keeping your geometry in the green.

[shauncondit]

Ok, well, good news on the financial homefront. I can up my budget to the $1200 range which gives me some better options. Suspension only...ill tackle under the hood and driveline separately I have an older 242, so hack n tap with a front driveshaft