Grand Wagoneer??

Alaskan1Ton

Observer
SO I owned a 78 Wagoneer a long time ago but it was briefly and I never went off road with it so I dont really know how it would do. I now have the chance to buy an 86 model for 800 bucks and it runs great. Its a 360 with an auto tranny and it has LOW range. How are these rigs as a build platform?
 

AMDemon

Observer
those things a awesome!! buy it and love it. lift is cheap and plenty of power. and they are gorgeous!
 

Eaglefreek

Eagleless
Great rigs if there is no concern for MPG. The only downside to an 86 is the NP228 transfer case that was a one year only case. Unless it has the NP208 or some other transfer case swapped in. It will work in most situations fine, but with out 4 high being locked, you can get into trouble. However, shifting it to 4 low will most likely get you out.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/
 

JPK

Explorer
I owned one and more than 20yrs later it now ranks third on my list of most capable 4wd rigs I've owned. Only my 2010 Hemi powered JKUR and my 2006 LJ Rubicon have been more capable.

Some of the rigs it beat:
CJ5
A couple of Cherokees
Three Suburbans
Range Rover Sport

JPK
 

Mbogo

Observer
It's true that the NP228 is open in 4HI, but it is locked in 4LO. Some people actually prefer the NP228 to the NP229 because the latter uses a viscous coupling to lock the differential in the transfer case when it detects slippage. The problem is that over time the silicone in the coupling can break down if not properly used/maintained, and replacement couplings are nonexistent. Of course, an NP208 obivates the concern, but you can not use 4 wheel drive on dry pavement. I've never tried it, but a swap to an NP242 or NP231 (or even an NP231OR) shouldn't be too tough. Meh. It depends on what you want to use it for, but 800 bones for a good running 4x4,what the hey. I say get it and drive the wee out of it. You will for sure get $800 worth of fun out of it.
 

herm

Adventurer
i am currently building a Wagoneer for our more off highway adventures. its a great platform and well liked. there are more cost effective solutions but the fun meter goes off the charts when driving an fsj.
 

Alaskan1Ton

Observer
well sweet, Im working the deal right now, we got 17" of snow today in Anchorage and its still snowing, the guy who has the FSJ says that on days like today he really hesitates to sell it!!, said its his best snow driving rig.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
Go get it... you'll love it! If you need advice or thoughts for upgrades let me know. Or visit the IFSJA (international Full Size Jeep) site... good guys there too!
 

Alaskan1Ton

Observer
OK, I GOT it and its AWESOME. It has some HD springs so its lifted about 2.5" over stock and its running almost new 35" tires. The PO did a decent fender trim wjere he cut slits in the metal and then folded the strips in towards the inner fender to close up the gap. Interior is great, it has the Old School Wagoneer Aluminum mag slotted rims. 360 just purrs. 1 question, its an 86 so what T-case does it have, theres a switch to the right of the steering wheel on the dash that the switch between 2WD, 4-Hi, and then theres a lever under drivers seat for LOW LOCK. This a 229 or 228?. You guys said the 228 might be better because of no vicious coupling to wear out?......how can I know for sure what I have?. Im real excited about this rig now, its gonna be a great family camper/explorer.
 

Alaskan1Ton

Observer
Also the 4WD system is run by vacuum correct?. Is there a way of doing a conversion to make it not rely on a vacuum actuator?, That crap always fails when you need it most.
 

Eaglefreek

Eagleless
There shouldn't be a vacuum disconnect on the axle, but the transfer case does use a vacuum switch. Some have run a stout cable to replace the vacuum actuator but it would be a custom job. I've got the 229 in my Eagle and before that the 128 and haven't had any problems with the vacuum actuator. However, if there ever is aproblem with it, it will most likely be at the worst time. :)

Here's a link to some push/pull cables: http://www.mcmaster.com/#push/pull-control-cable/=g3wc0n

Here's a post where a guy has a pretty good idea of how to modify the shift actuator: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showpost.php?p=160666&postcount=5
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
On the back of the T-case, dead center, should be a round metal tag about 2"s in diameter. It will tell you what you have. If that's missing (not usually) you could try comparing it to stuff over on Novak's website..they have a pretty good knowledge base there. There are a few issues you may want to look at as time goes on with your new (yea!) waggy. The 80s were not a great time for electronics and vaccum stuff. Emissions being the strangle hold it was there are a lot of poor quality and near useless junk attached to these. If your front axle has a CAD type system you may want to start replacing vaccum lines or think about going to a different t-case. Since your dealing with a vehicle that is 26 years old, there is a good chance a lot of those lines are brittle and/or cracked. Between the motor and the 4x4,Heater, etc... there are a lot! If something stops working don't fret...that may be the likely cause. If you can find one, there is an NP208 that should bolt right up and is an all manual t-case. That doesn't do anything about the front axle but will be a less complicated system.
Also, check all the electrical stuff under the hood. They have been known to develop Car-B-Que if the wires get old/rotted.
You'll find the rear window is a PITA sometimes. They are very failure prone. Check all the windows rubber "sweeps" to make sure they are soft and compliant. As they dry and get hard they make it difficult for the windows to work and eventually they break. If your's has electric seats you may want to pull them and clean and lube all the tracks and moving stuff.The seats are pretty heavy and when they get gummed up they break easy. Expensive to fix but easy to prevent.
We need PICTURES!!! I want to see how he fit 35s on with just 2.5"s of life...I think maybe your mistaken. heehee! The front isn't so bad but the small rear opening requires more lift/trimming to ever hope to get 35s in there.
Glad you got it and welcome to the FSJ madness! :)
 

Alaskan1Ton

Observer
I will get pics up ASAP. How can I tell if the front axle has a CAD?. Im pretty excited about the Jeep, its gonna be sweet in the future.
 

jeepdreamer

Expedition Leader
If you look at the front differential cover you can tell. If its a CAD (that's laymen terms but not a "true" CAD) it will have a strange looking thing cast into the diff housing with vac tubes running to it. IIRC, the disconnect may have stopped in 83? Hurry with the pics...I'm DYING over here!!!!!! lol!
Also... do you have emissions testing up there? If you can remove it you can gain huge power and "feel" when driving and prob make the thing run better and cleaner to boot!
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,842
Messages
2,878,776
Members
225,393
Latest member
jgrillz94
Top