thinking about a dodge ram

[Buliwyf]

I wouldn't let miles bother you.

Some domestic engines will last 300,000 miles, some of the same engines will self destruct in just 75,000 miles. Sometimes the amount of care is a factor, sometimes it isn't. I've even tried to kill a few engines and couldn't. But I've also seen well care for engines fail way too early. Domestic truck engines are throw away designs. A brand new truck is as likely to blow up as a used one these days. I've had good luck myself, maybe I'm a better driver than the rest of my fleet drivers?

I wouldn't overlook a 2500 work truck with high mileage if it's in good shape and drives new and tight. You can't be too picky in the $3500 range. I'd rather gamble with high mileage and a good straight truck, than a beat up truck with low mileage and alot of repairs.

 

[chilliwak]

I am a Chevy guy but all my Dodge friends say one thing........
Ì would rather sleep with my Cummins than my wife anyday´
When I ask them why I get answers like, she is more reliable, keep her fluids topped up and she never stops, purrs like a kitten until you rake her, than you just have to hold on for life she is such a powerhouse, ect, ect,:Wow1:
I think you get the idea.....:ylsmoke:

 

[E-rock]

If everybody else's replies aren't enough guidance, here's my opinion--Rams are fine. I have a 2003 (IFS) 1500 quadcab/short bed with the smaller 4.7L and NV3500. I've owned lots of rigs--several YJs, two FJ40s, two Broncos, a Chevy--and have used them all for an overlanding approach to life, with trails but no extremely technical driving. I have about 140,000 on the Ram, lots of them freeway, lots of them offroad, with tons of sand and snow thrown in and have no complaints. With stock suspension height and steering and 315/70R17s, I have no complaints in the power, control, or stopping departments (even when loaded...or overloaded). One of the cooler things is that, for a newer, comfy rig, I can turn just about every wrench this thing requires. I've found spare parts for broken components in some weird spots in southern mainland Mex (my fault, not the truck's), and have no rust. Additionally, the visibility is fantastic.

I've always kept it on synthetics and maintained it pretty well. The one early mod that I did was to beef up the battery leads and put a deep-cycle battery in it...Dodges seem to need that with any added electrical accessories. I put a K&N in it early-on too, and have had an array of storage racks, jack mounts, rooftop tents, and gear boxes in the back, but that's about it.

To be honest, most of this stuff for me is more software-based than hardware: I go to lots of weird, hard-to-get to places simply to dive, camp, surf, ski, climb, hike, shoot, or drive around there, and the ram has been an extremely capable, reliable, and easy-to-maintain platform for me. I've pushed its capabilities lots and it's pretty forgiving, and I've practiced lots of trail driving, evasion, and recovery techniques on it with good results.

I'd say buy something you are comfortable in, can rely on, and can work on when you push it too much so you can spend more time out there. This truck has been this for me.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

I agree with you fligght2k5...they never told me that it was shift on the fly into 4lo and I never tried doing that. But the Dodge Boys did indicate to me that shifting into 4hi at highway speeds was problematic in the long run despite advertising to the contrary. As for shifting into 4lo, I always experienced some clunking/grinding with the engine running and in neutral; they suggested shutting the engine off completely and that's what I now do. Everyone's experience is slightly different. :sombrero:

 

[Saiyan66]

FWIW the 5.2 is not a bad motor. It is more rev happy than the 5.9 and obviously makes less torque, but I really enjoyed my 5.2 in my 93 (1st gen Dodge). The Magnum 5.9 and 5.2 are really notorious for dropping valve seats, but other than that they are pretty bombproof. There are lots of mods available (if thats your thing) and if the motor goes, you can get one at a junkyard for cheap to replace it with. The Dodge auto trans weak spot is just like any other transmission, heat. If you put a pan and cooler on them they are among the best as they are based off of the 727 Torqueflite. Ball joints will be an issue if you run larger tires as the CAD Dana 44 isn't known for having great ones. However it is a decent axle. I have one on my 91 (1st gen Dodge) and am running 35's with no problem other than the ball joints. Oh and I have the Posi-lock cable thing to delete the CAD vacuum actuation and it works well, just make sure you adjust it properly or it can pop out of 4wd while under load. If you are looking in the $3500 price range you aren't going to find a pristine truck, so just be realistic and figure you are going to have to work on some things. Take it little by little and address the maintenance stuff first.


P.S. For clarification:

1st gen Dodge Ram = 1972-1993
2nd gen Dodge Ram = 1994-2001 for 1500's, 1994-2002 for 2500's & 3500's
3rd gen Dodge Ram = 2002-2008 for 1500's, 2003-2009 for 2500's & 3500's
4th gen Dodge Ram = 2009+ for 1500's, 2010+ for 2500's & 3500's

Most people use the term "Ram" interchangeable with "Dodge truck" so us Dodge guys do not differentiate the different generations even though the model was not called a "Ram" until 1994. Dodge made trucks prior to 1972, but these are not generally considered "Rams" and therefore somehow escape the gen 1,2,3,4 etc nomenclature. There should be clear as mud now.

 

[Mighty Dodge Ram]

Nice job on the Generation clarification Saiyan66. And your comparison between the 5.2 and 5.9 is right on. :sombrero:

 

[Booner]

I had a 98 Dodge 1/2 ton, and it was a good truck. Problem free for almost 200K. I replaced it with a 2006 2500 w/ Cummins engine, which has also been a good truck. It's all stock, maintenance done according to schedule, and reliability is outstanding.

 

[BC_Explorer]

After a lot of looking, this weekend, I purchased a 2008 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 with the 5.7 Hemi. The truck only has 40,000 miles on it and is in excellent condition overall. I would of preferred the Cummins but they are going for a premium up here and my needs do not justify the added cost as I will only be towing a 6x10 V-Nose cargo trailer that I will converting to an off-road camping trailer.

The Ram is fairly optioned out with the Big Horn trim level and has 3.92 gears, limited slip rear differential, heavy duty towing package, class 4 hitch, 7 pin wiring tow/haul mode transmission etc.

At this point, I am will not be doing any mods in the truck until I have the trailer converted which I plan to complete by mid to late May depending on my free time. The trailer is ready for pick up and I will starting a build thread over in the expedition trailer forum soon.

 

[JeepN95YJ]

I have a question for you guys.

Are there any good "offroad" web forums for the 3rd Gen Dodge? I just bought a 2003 1500 Regular Cab longbed with a lift and 35s. I'm not sure how high or what brand lift. It does have rough country shocks but that doesn't necessarily mean RC Lift. I'm getting a lot of bump steer and I'd like to read up on the pros and cons of the IFS Dodge lifts.

Most of the forums I've found are more 2nd gen specific or street oriented. Thanks in advance.

 

[Saiyan66]

Just so you are aware, caster problems can mimic bump steer so it couldn't hurt to check the alignment first when trying to track down that issue.

 

[JeepN95YJ]

Just so you are aware, caster problems can mimic bump steer so it couldn't hurt to check the alignment first when trying to track down that issue.

Caster is something I've never considered. Would you mind giving me a quick description of what's happening? I understand the concepts but not how it applies to bump steer. Currently, when I hit a bump at speed my front wheels feel like they are both moving in opposite directions. It most often happens when I hit a dip in the road with both wheels rather than a single wheel hitting the bump.

 

[Fish]

I have a question for you guys.

Are there any good "offroad" web forums for the 3rd Gen Dodge?

Try DTX There are a lot of hard core Dodge guys there, including some of the top suspension builders. Sage Carli and Don Thuren are both regular posters. You can also look to the suspension section of cummins forum, but I've found a lot of suspect info there. Warning -- the DTX guys aren't exactly sensitive. Have thick skin.

 

[Regcabguy]

I have a question for you guys.

Are there any good "offroad" web forums for the 3rd Gen Dodge? I just bought a 2003 1500 Regular Cab longbed with a lift and 35s. I'm not sure how high or what brand lift. It does have rough country shocks but that doesn't necessarily mean RC Lift. I'm getting a lot of bump steer and I'd like to read up on the pros and cons of the IFS Dodge lifts.

Most of the forums I've found are more 2nd gen specific or street oriented. Thanks in advance.

Two days ago NTG Racing a local shop I trust was restoring a 1500 Dodge with a Mopar/Kore lift back to stock after the supposedly bulletproof IFS system killed the CV joints do to excessive droop. New stock axleshafts are $385 ea.,remans are $10.00 cheaper. This is the only 1500 I've seen in their shop.

 

[Buliwyf]

Caster is something I've never considered. Would you mind giving me a quick description of what's happening? I understand the concepts but not how it applies to bump steer. Currently, when I hit a bump at speed my front wheels feel like they are both moving in opposite directions. It most often happens when I hit a dip in the road with both wheels rather than a single wheel hitting the bump.

That's exactly whats happening. IFS trucks toe out the wheels when you absorb a bump.

On cars you can move the rack up/down to adjust your bumpsteer. You can also use longer tie rod ends to get the tie rods into better geometry. I think most trucks with IFS are much harder to solve.

You could also have loose sway bar mounts, sway bar bushings, wheel bearing, ball joint, etc. etc.

 

[1badram408]

TOI i have owned my 96 ram 1500 4x4 .5.2l . 5-speedfor 7 years.the biggest issue ive had was the plenum gasket going out which is the most common problem on the l8 magnum style motors. as besides that issue my ram has 200k all sock drive train. factory lsd rear end. pretty good ground clearance out of the box.a solid axle dana 44 in the front. ive taken my ram on the Rubicon trail twice. slick rock almost on a monthly basis. frank rains. and hollister hills here. ive never had an issue with it on a trail.just make sure your plenum is in good shape. i cant tell you about the cummins ive never owned one.also keep in mind the the auto trans on the rams are not the greatest out the box.look for a 5 speed. also u can put a cummins 6 speed trans into a Gasser there are kits for it.as far as fuel effeminacy well dodges are not plain and simple.i get around 9 mpg.
just my 2 cents.