Yet another 109 build Thread

[aka rover]

Well I managed to get the tranny and Tcase ready to go in, So I pulled the mock up units out and installed the ones I will be running. I am going to be installing an overdrive in the near future.

And the AA T-case adapter allows the use of pto or OD units as if it was a stock tranny. I found A cool fill plug plate on one of my old cases and installed it just in case it leaks in the future I can get to the fill plug with ease.

[aka rover]

I have a question for you Expo types, this rig is gong to be a long range driver and was going to put batteries under the pass seat. But after a little thinking I think that a fuel tank would be a better choice. I was planning on just a couple extra jerry cans for extended drives but now im thinking I really dont need two reserve batteries for the rig and one extra would be more than plenty.

I have the outriggers for the 88 size tank and and a extra tank, and I think even a military type tank that fills from under seat. Any thoughts or comments would be great

Cheers Ed

[Alaska Mike]

Which tank do you have? If all you have is the passenger seat tank, I would get a rear tank with the second battery. TeriAnn detailed that CJ tank swap on her site, which is a possibility for my own project. Either that, or a custom rear tank.

The need for a second battery really depends on your electrical needs. Other than the 8274, what are you going to have that will require extra juice?

[aka rover]

Mike I have the rear tank in the back its the factory one, As far as power goes I always carry a ready welder so I will need a second battery but think I can get it under the seat as well. So both batteries under the drivers seat.

we plan on traveling around with the=is one day and will live in it for a month or two at a time. So we will have reading lights a arb fridge power inverter for AC power etc.

I ran the exhaust out the driver side just in case I do decided to run somthing under the pass seat.

[aka rover]

I got some stuff done on the rover got the motor resealed and installed in the chassis.
I also got the exhaust started
020 (2).jpg
017 (2).jpg

012 (3).JPG
008 (3).jpg
006 (3).jpg
011 (3).JPG

[aka rover]

While I was resealing the motor I cropped the oil pan A little to help with clearance.

014 (2).JPG
013 (2).jpg

I also finished up the some more of the wireing and got the fuse block about done I still need to wire loom all wireing and fasten it down for the long haul.


027.jpg
025 (2).JPG

[LR Max]

You are asking about batteries. Unless your Alaskan experience says otherwise, I think having one decent sized battery will work just fine. I've been running 2 batteries in parallel for years now. No problems, plenty of power for a dead engine pull as well as enough to crank afterwards. Also enough juice to move the vehicle with the starter motor + 1st gear + low range (on pavement). However this is all in the southeastern part of the US. I have no idea what Alaska is like on batteries.

[tacr2man]

Do you intend to wrap the downpipe or put a heat shield to protect the starter and solenoid ? , as would probably be a good time to do ,
Re fuel tank and battery locations , I put a truck diesel in a 109 about 30yrs back , and as i wanted max fuel capacity I fitted sw tank at rear , to supplement the original under driver and third tank under passenger seat (like MOD 109) I then mounted twin batteries in tray where centre front seat goes with cover on top (same a MOD radio vehicles) cubby box was then mounted on top of that . HTSH

(MOD = military)

[berg]

What kind of condition is your OM617 in?

What year and vehicle did it come out of?

great build btw

[aka rover]

What kind of condition is your OM617 in?

What year and vehicle did it come out of?

great build btw

Thanks

The motor is out of a 1983 benz sedan 300D I bought a complete car so I was able to drive the motor first.

I took the head off and resealed everything and the motor still has cross hatch in the cylinders. The chain was stretched a bit so I am installing an offset woodruff key to get it back in spec. It appears to be a good motor but only time will tell
.

You are asking about batteries. Unless your Alaskan experience says otherwise, I think having one decent sized battery will work just fine. I've been running 2 batteries in parallel for years now. No problems, plenty of power for a dead engine pull as well as enough to crank afterwards. Also enough juice to move the vehicle with the starter motor + 1st gear + low range (on pavement). However this is all in the southeastern part of the US. I have no idea what Alaska is like on batteries.

Im going to run the batteries in parallel through a blueseas selector switch so if I want to run a battery as a camp battery I can and still have a backup in the morning and also have two for winching and cold starts.

Do you intend to wrap the downpipe or put a heat shield to protect the starter and solenoid ? , as would probably be a good time to do ,
Re fuel tank and battery locations , I put a truck diesel in a 109 about 30yrs back , and as i wanted max fuel capacity I fitted sw tank at rear , to supplement the original under driver and third tank under passenger seat (like MOD 109) I then mounted twin batteries in tray where centre front seat goes with cover on top (same a MOD radio vehicles) cubby box was then mounted on top of that . HTSH
(MOD = military)

Yes I am going to wrap the down pipe as well as put some heat shield on the fire wall as well the motor has to come out one more time and I will wrap it then.
Very good idea there I think I have a MOD tank in my stash of parts, im thinking I want to keep the center of seat box open for trans and Tcase service. Im going to mount the batteries under drivers seat and fuel under passenger seat