Irish's 1990 FJ62 Slow Build (aka the The Flying Brick)

[irish_11]

I had my CB mounted up by the dash when I bought the Cruiser. I kept hitting my hand on it and it was annoying so I moved it. I made a mount out of a steel strap and ran the wires through the headliner. I think it turned out pretty clean.

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[irish_11]

I was in the process of hunting down all the little leaks in my 3fe (impossible I know, but I thought I would give it a shot). I replaced the oil pan gasket and let me tell you 22 year old black RTV is tough stuff. Anyway, I moved on from there to the front crank seal and timing cover seal. Everything came off easy enough. The balancer came off the first time with 3 bumps of the starter. I took the timing cover off and cleaned it up a bit:

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I put it back on using the chain technique:

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I got it to around 255lbs (my torque wrench maxed out at 228lbs so I was looking for one to rent). That is when I notice the chunk missing. (Not seen in the photo). I searched around for a week to find a used one. I can get a new one from SOR for $625, Toyota $435 or Oriley for $230. Well I found a used balancer at my local yard for $125. I ran a wire wheel over it to get all the rust/junk off of it and turns out it is going to need a speedy sleeve. There is a groove cut into it. That is the least of my worries right now though.

I cannot get the crank bolt back off. I have tried the starter bump (I am about 20+ bumps in right now), got a different 1 and 13/16 socket (I have a 46mm too), PD blaster overnight, and some heat and it will not budge. Anyone have any tips, tricks, prayers vehicle gods, or ideas? Or is anyone in the Seattle area a pro at this and wouldn't mind helping a guy out for a case of beer? I'm at just about my whits end here. This was supposed to be a simple project

[irish_11]

In the mean time between chasing oil seals I started the blacking out of all the chrome on the cruiser. *Edit* I reliazed I posted about the de-chroming already (yes I am that excited about it) So I will reserve this spot for follow up photos.

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So far I've blacked out the grill, headlight windows, side vents (front and rear), mirrors, rear badge, and re-coated the wipers. I also removed the window trim on all the windows except for the rears. I need to order a kit from WagonGear for those.

[1911]

I cannot get the crank bolt back off. I have tried the starter bump (I am about 20+ bumps in right now), got a different 1 and 13/16 socket (I have a 46mm too), PD blaster overnight, and some heat and it will not budge. Anyone have any tips, tricks, prayers vehicle gods, or ideas?

Do you have an impact gun? I have always been able to get them off with a good-quality 1/2" air impact gun.

I also made a crankshaft immobilizer tool out of a length of 1/4" flat stock:

[irish_11]

Well after some serious down time, 3 balancers, and some swearing I finally bought a Toyota factory balancer from CDan over on Ih8mud. I have to say it was a smooth transaction and I should have done it in the first place. Avoid the O'Riley balancers. They are cut wrong and will not fit a 3FE. I purchased one and it did not fit. It was within 1mm which lead me to believe it might have been a manufactures defect. I picked up a second one and it was the same story. I got a refund and went to CDan.

I'm so excited to have it up and running again. While I was waiting on shipping for the balancers I did finish off a few more mods. I mounted a MV-50 compressor (ported and rewired) under the hood. Its on my spare battery tray for now, mounted with a ratchet strap. It will be moved when I get dual batteries down the road. It is wired up to a Blue Sea fuse box and Bussmann 80 AMP breaker.

[irish_11]

I picked up a smittybilt console after reading some reviews over on MUD. The main reasons for the upgrade:

1. My factory console was cracked and broken
2. An actual armrest would be nice
3. IT HAS A CUP HOLDER

The install was smooth and no major issues. None of the holes lined up so I had to drill my own which I expected. In addition I added in the heater controls to the back of the console. They seem to work just fine back there. I need to clean it up and bit and add some trim around my cuts, but otherwise I am happy with the console and it's addition of a large amount of locking storage.

Cup holders:
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Overall size:
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Heater controls: (I have to apologize for the phone photo and the smudge)
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[John E]

couple of questions and requests.

How did you attach the radio to the roof? I haven't pulled my headliner down yet so I'm kinda clueless about what's under there.

Got a pic of the compressor and maybe some more details on how you mounted it ?

Which Smittybilt console did you get? I read the thread(s) over on Mud and never saw a consensus on which version fits in a 62.
I'm thinking of simply pulling my rear heater out, I've never used it and given that my 62 is a solo driven vehicle about 95% of the time and the climate I mostly use it in, I don't anticipate needing it much in the future. I'd keep the electrical connections for future use.

Nice work so far, I've got a new oil pan seal ready to be installed on mine too, hoping I don't have to do the timing cover, balancer, etc.

Thanks.

[irish_11]

How did you attach the radio to the roof? I haven't pulled my headliner down yet so I'm kinda clueless about what's under there.

The radio is bolted to a 1/8" thick 2" wide steel strap that is screwed in using the rear view mirror screws, no additional support. I routed the wires through the headliner using a wire snake, but if you have the head liner off that would make it way easier.

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Got a pic of the compressor and maybe some more details on how you mounted it?

Here is the MV50. I mounted it on the Drivers side up front. I picked up a used battery tray for $25, stripped it down and coated it in rust sealer then a couple of heavy coats of spray can plasti-dip. The compressor is wired in with a waterproof switch mounted on the inside of my ARB bumper along with a remote airline and 1/4 NPT air chuck. I have the compressor wired into my blue sea fuse box using a 2-pin trailer connector. This will allow me to move the compressor to another location down the road if I want to run dual batteries.

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Which Smittybilt console did you get? I read the thread(s) over on Mud and never saw a consensus on which version fits in a 62?

I used the black body and grey pad non-radio version. It fits almost perfectly between the back of the heater and the shifter. There is a little room to spare. I debated ditching the heater too, but I kept it in for now. The console comes with a bracket that alot of the 60 guys used under the rear of the console since their heater is located under the seat. If you take your heater out that bracket should be perfect for making the console level. I think I'm going to use the bracket as a switch panel like a few others on Mud have done.

[John E]

for the details. Wondering if running a strip of metal from the mirror bracket to the domelight mount would give some added strength? Probably overthinking things as usual...;^)

I appreciate your work, hope to incorporate some of it into my own build.

[irish_11]

for the details. Wondering if running a strip of metal from the mirror bracket to the domelight mount would give some added strength? Probably overthinking things as usual...;^)

I appreciate your work, hope to incorporate some of it into my own build.

Thanks, I cannot take full credit for the idea. I mounted my CB mounted like this in my 1st Gen 4runner. I have seen a few others over on the Mud forum mounted with a strip running from the dome light bracket to the mirrior. That design seems more stout. I have a pretty light CB so I haven't had anny issues yet, but if you had a hervier unit then I would consider going that routh.