Need help with 1998 Chevrolet 2500 Diesel - won't start

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
Well, one of these days.

The truck was running fine last night. This morning it started and was running perfect, but started dying just like it was running out of fuel.

I went and got 2 gallons, but still no luck. It would start and stop after a few seconds, and then more and more frequently until it does not start at all.

the problem is that my fuel gauge does not work (always shows full) so I can't really use that as a reference....

Could the fuel system be clogged (it's about 32 here)? or do I need to bleed it? any other suggestion?

the truck is a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado Turbo Diesel 6.5. As I said no issue before, we drove around last night.

thanks for any help. I'll try this thing call Google now.
 

98dango

Expedition Leader
Could be


out of fuel gallons is not always enought for a fresh pick up witch means it now needs bled

its cold most /s dont like cold DO not use eather or starting fluid. Brake clean if you wish to go this way
glow plug timer glow plugs could be bad I would check to see how much fuel you really have
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
There is a T-Valve at the front which is used to bleed I believe. When I open it and turn the ignition key (without starting the engine), the fuel pump goes on and there are tons of fuel coming out that valve. I am not sure that fuel supply is the problem anymore.

Any other suggestion?
 

Larry

Bigassgas Explorer
Christian,

If it did run out of fuel it takes 3 forevers to bleed the system. Even if you and fuel coming out of the bleeder it takes a lot of cranking to purge the air from the nozzles. So much so, you may have to hook up a battery charger as you will be cranking for a while.

Here is the Crank and No Start section from the GM Service Manual. The cut and paste from their to here makes it more difficult to read but when it says go to step. The first go to step is YES, second is NO.


Circuit Description


This chart assumes that battery condition and engine cranking speed is OK. The quantity and quality of fuel is OK and the glow plug system is operating properly.

Diagnostic Aids


If no trouble is found and the cause of an Engine Cranks But Will Not Run has not been found, check for the following conditions:
• Proper cranking speed, 100 RPMs cold –180 RPMs hot (a scan tool can be used to check cranking speed by pulling the FUEL SOL fuse and monitoring Engine Speed on scan tool while cranking).
• Water or foreign material in fuel system.
• Basic engine problem.
If the crankshaft position sensor and the optical/fuel temperature sensor are disconnected or malfunctioning at the same time, an Engine Cranks But Will Not Run condition will exist.

Test Description


Number(s) below refer to the step number(s) on the Diagnostic Table.
6 This step checks for proper cranking speed (see Diagnostic Aids).
8 This step will check the ground wire on the injection pump (wire located on top of pump).
12 This step will determine if the injection pump or wiring is at fault.
13 This step will determine if the fuel injection control voltage is present by probing at the black/gray 4 wire connector jumper harness instead of at the 6 wire pump connector .


Step
Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Important: Before clearing DTC(s) use the Scan Tool Capture Info to record freeze frame and failure records for reference, as data will be lost when Clear Info function is used.
Was the Powertrain On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check performed?

Go to Step 2



Go to Powertrain On Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check


2
Check for proper condition of batteries. Refer to Engine Electrical.

Is the condition of batteries OK?

Go to Step 3



Go to Step 23




3
Check for adequate fuel in the tank.

Is the fuel at an adequate level?

Go to Step 4



Go to Step 23




4
Check the quality of the fuel.

Is the fuel quality OK?

Go to Step 5



Go to Step 23




5
Check the glow plug system operation. Refer to Glow Plug System Check .

Are the glow plugs operating OK?

Go to Step 6



Go to Step 23




6



Check for the proper cranking speed. Refer to Engine Electrical.

Is the cranking speed OK?

Go to Step 7



Go to Step 23




7
Check for a restriction in the fuel return system. Refer to Fuel Supply System Check .

Does the fuel return system operate properly?

Go to Step 8



Go to Step 23




8



Check the injection pump ground wire (located on top of the injection pump).

Is the ground OK?

Go to Step 9



Go to Step 23




9
Install a scan tool.

Does the scan tool display data?

Go to Step 10



Go to Data Link Connector Diagnosis


10
1. Monitor the VTD Fuel Disabled parameter on the Powertrain Engine Data 1 list.

2. Crank the engine.

Does the VTD Fuel Disabled parameter display Active while the engine is being cranked?

Go to VTD System Check
Go to Step 11




11
1. Loosen the injector line at the injector.

2. Crank the engine.

3. Repeat the procedure for the remaining injectors.

Is there fuel at each injection line?

Go to Step 17



Go to Step 12




12



Disconnect the optical/fuel temperature sensor.

Does the vehicle start?

Go to Step 16



Go to Step 13




13
1. Reconnect the optical/fuel temperature sensor.

2. Disconnect the fuel solenoid driver at the fuel injection pump 4 wire jumper harness.

3. With J 39200 connected to ground, probe the fuel injector control circuit (terminal A) at the 4 wire jumper harness connector (PCM side).

4. Crank the engine.

Is the voltage greater than or equal to the specified value?
1.2 V
Go to Step 14



Go to Step 18




14
1. Verify the fuel solenoid driver 4 wire jumper harness is still disconnected.

2. Probe the fuel solenoid closure ground circuit (terminal B) with a test light connected to B+ at the harness terminal (PCM side).

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 15



Go to Step 19




15
1. Turn the ignition ON leaving the engine OFF.

2. Verify the fuel solenoid driver 4 wire jumper harness is still disconnected.

3. Probe the ignition feed circuit (terminal C) at the fuel solenoid 4 wire jumper harness connector (PCM side) with a test light connected to ground.

Is the test light ON?

Go to Step 16



Go to Step 21




16
Replace fuel injection pump. Refer to Fuel Injection Pump Replacement .

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 25





17
The injection system is OK.

Is the action complete?

Go to Driveability Symptoms


18
Check the fuel injection control circuit for an open or short to ground between the fuel solenoid driver and the PCM.

Was a problem found?

Go to Step 22



Go to Step 20




19
Check the closure ground circuit for an open between the fuel solenoid driver and the PCM.

Was a problem found?

Go to Step 22



Go to Step 20




20
Inspect the fuel solenoid driver connector and the PCM connector for a proper connection.

Was a problem found?

Go to Step 22



Go to Step 24




21
Repair the open in the ignition feed circuit.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 25





22
Repair the circuit as necessary.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 25





23
Make the appropriate repairs.

Is the action complete?

Go to Step 25





24
Replace the PCM.

Important: The new PCM must be programmed. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming . Is the action complete?

Go to Step 25





25
1. Using the scan tool, select DTC, Clear Info.

2. Attempt to start the engine.

Does the engine start and continue to run?

Go to Step 26



Go to Step 2




26
1. Allow the engine to idle until normal operating temperature is reached.

2. Select DTC, Fail This Ign.

Are any DTCs displayed?

Go to Step 27





27
Using the scan tool, select Capture Info, Review Info.

Are any DTCs displayed that have not been diagnosed?

Go to the Applicable DTC Table
System OK
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
Crack one of the injector lines at the injector and see if you have fuel coming out of it, I think its a 17 or 18 mm. Sounds like your electric lift pump is working and getting fuel to the injection pump if there is lots of fuel at the filter drain with the key on, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter. It helps to have someone crank while you crack the injector line so you can watch it. Keep it cracked for a while while cranking and see if anything comes out. If it spits and the engine will pop a little go crack the other injector lines you can get to. Once you have a steady spurt from each line then tighten them, your engine should actually try starting by this time. If you never get any diesel at the injectors when you crack the lines then you have something wrong with the injection pump, your era of 6.5 has something called the PMD that likes to go bad. Also if you have repeatedly run it out of diesel you could have damaged your injection pump. Now you should hook a scan tool up and see what codes you have. If you have diesel at the injectors and lots of smoke at the tailpipe then check your glowplug system. I have owned and currently own a 6.5 TD and also have worked on quite a few.
 

Avec

New member
New to the site, but thought I would help out. I have been running a 96 6.5TD K2500 Sub for quite a while, with over 300,000 miles on it. Your stalling issue sounds to be the common PMD (pump mounted driver) failure. PMD is also known as a FSD (Fuel Solenoid Driver) and it controls the electronic injection pump. Before going there, confirm that your lift pump is operating. To do this, open the drain valve at the top of the fuel filter canister at the very back center of the engine. Open it a couple turns, then have someone hit the key. If fuel comes out, your fuel lines and pump to that point are good (most likely). If no fuel comes out and/or the filter bowl is empty, then you have problems with the lines or lift pump (the lift pump is on the inside of the frame rail just below the driver's seat.

If it does turn out to be a bad PMD - and they go out ofter (I go through one every couple years). They are easy to replace, but I recommend getting an extension harness and remote heat sink to help keep the new one operating as long as possible.
 

ktmryder

New member
Have someone turn your key on, while you are laying under neath the drivers door. Feal the pump that is on the frame rail. If it vibrates, that means it is functioning. When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? This all could be coming from a dirty fuel filter. It is at the rear of engine(and if I have to tell you that I would start there:)
 

Avec

New member
Have someone turn your key on, while you are laying under neath the drivers door. Feal the pump that is on the frame rail. If it vibrates, that means it is functioning. When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? This all could be coming from a dirty fuel filter. It is at the rear of engine(and if I have to tell you that I would start there:)

I have actually had a vibrating lift pump not actually pump. The flow of fuel needs to be checked, either directly at the output of the pump, or at the fuel filter bowl. However the suggestion of replacing the fuel filter is a good one, and should be done as part of this problem solving venture regardless.
 

Christian P.

Expedition Leader
Staff member
thanks guys for the help so far. I hook the battery charger and it cranks very strong, no doubt there. it does start once in a while, but will shut down almost immediately.

I haven't replaced the fuel filter recently, the truck has been parked for most of the last months. And I am leaving tomorrow for another 3 weeks, so I won't have time until I come back...

:(

so at this point, I would think it's either air in the system, or the PMD.

Someone mentions scanning code - can I do that with my normal ODBC reader?
 

shortbus4x4

Expedition Leader
You should be able to use your OBDII code reader to pull codes on it. 96 and newer is more or less OBDII. I would pull codes next, very suspicious that its something electronic because you said it starts and stops.
 

FellowTraveler

Explorer
Odds are its the pump mounted driver (PMD)

The biggest fault on any 6.5 td w/electroic IP is the pump driver aka; FSD it's mounted to side of injection pump, and failure shows at both temp extremes hot/cold start/stall and no start.

Lot's of injection pumps have been changed out when only the pump driver (FSD) is at fault!

I years ago had installed extra PMD's on their own cooler plates see; my sig,"I like redundant". Yes, the PMD is pricey however that cost is off set by not getting stuck and having the extra expense of waiting on a replacement PMD no-one seems to stock. One would think this PMD would be available most everywhere because of the most common failure of the GM 6.5 td, I can assure you it's a *(&*&%^#@to get in most AO's.

Stanadyne has a grey PMD that is billed as being a much better unit w/gold terminals, I have one and it works fine but for how long?, the jury is still out.

As for your IP even if it has wear in cold weather it should not cause a no-start issue, in hot weather many add a heavy motor oil to get by until a change out can be made.

The best PM for your injection pump IMHO is the addition of 2 cycle oil 1 oz to 1 gal of diesel keeps it all pump/injectors lubed since low sulpher fuel has emerged in response to environmental issues.
 

FellowTraveler

Explorer
Another tip

A bad lift pump or FMD will not throw any code

Get CarCode OBD-2 scanner/device controller about $120. US and you will not only be able to scan codes but reset top dead center offset, timing and adjust other device controllers in your PMC. I use this program in my ToughBook along w/mapping/gps etc.
 

Barry822

New member
Take a look at the top of the injection pump. There is a shut off solenoid. It can be screwed out using an allen key. Back it out a couple turns and try to start truck. It will make a mess but should start. You can get the solenoid on its own. Im sure lots of injection pumps have been changed from just a faulty solenoid.

Sent from my SGH-T959D using Tapatalk
 

Forum statistics

Threads
185,533
Messages
2,875,610
Members
224,922
Latest member
Randy Towles
Top