What to look out for when buying a 404S?

[fxk142]

Hi Guys,
I may have a line on a 404S for very cheap. I have not owned one before but read a bunch about them. What should I watch out for? Where do these things rust? This is a mid-60's 404S, with a box on the back. It has been sitting for a while as well. Gas motor, not running (needs fuel system gone over and battery). Knowing that this is won't be going out on a test drive, what should I be searching for problem wise? What goes on these things? What would be crazy expensive to repair if there are issues?

Thanks!

[762X39]

Well, where to start... You are purchasing a 45 year old vehicle. Body parts are very cheap to replace (I use Expedition Imports). The engine was also in some sedans. The exhaust manifold (a 2 part affair) sometimes cracks and may need replacement. The hubs and diffs and transmission require regular oil changes (I use 75W90 synthetic). It is a slow and underpowered (by NA standards) and there is nothing you can do to make it fast and overpowered that won't destroy the qualities that make enthusiasts want one or keep it reliable.It's a Unimog thing (either you understand it or are willing to settle for a puny Jeep thing )

[WCFJ]

Well, where to start... You are purchasing a 45 year old vehicle. Body parts are very cheap to replace (I use Expedition Imports). The engine was also in some sedans. The exhaust manifold (a 2 part affair) sometimes cracks and may need replacement. The hubs and diffs and transmission require regular oil changes (I use 75W90 synthetic). It is a slow and underpowered (by NA standards) and there is nothing you can do to make it fast and overpowered that won't destroy the qualities that make enthusiasts want one or keep it reliable.It's a Unimog thing (either you understand it or are willing to settle for a puny Jeep thing )

Ok, since body parts are cheap and apparently readily available, what areas on the frame are prone to rust?

When inspecting one of these for purchase, what areas would be deal breakers for you?

[Victorian]

Ok, since body parts are cheap and apparently readily available, what areas on the frame are prone to rust?

When inspecting one of these for purchase, what areas would be deal breakers for you?

I wouldn't worry too much about the rust... the frame is thick metal, never seen a 404 that was rusted through! But I would put some attention into the portals, transmission and electrical system. That's it for now, that should keep you busy for a while ;-)

[fxk142]

Considering that it will no be running, are there any portal/transmission checks I can perform by jacking the front or rear axles up? If so can your guys provide some instructions?
I am going into this knowing it will be a project, but I just don't want it to turn into a costly one. Cosmetics will be the easy part. I want to ensure the mechanicals are in good working order.

[762X39]

Short of taking stuff apart, check what is in the fluids when you drain them and look for signs of leakage. I have replaced portal seals and rebuilt brake pistons and all of it is easy if you have the parts, the proper puller and the service manual. Unimogs are a serious hobby bordering on religion.

[Esmi]

Obviously there is no one-size-fits-all aphorism for this type of situation, ... but ...

A Pinz board I sometimes read recommends that your first Pinz be a slightly more expensive one, that is likely to run well right out of the box so you can play with it and appreciate it. First timers will be kept busy enough maintaining a well-maintained one.

Come to think of it, the old timers at my Bluebird Wanderlodge group recommend the same thing: Let the first one be "easy," because even easy may not be all that easy. Subsequent ones could be fixers or projects, but the first one ought to be pretty straight-forward.

My guess is that the same holds true for Unimogs. Get an easy one first, and see whether you like working on the one that "doesn't need anything." If you do, then go get a basket case, or project.

[Tennmogger]

What is the truck's history? Was it running well last time it was used? What claims does the seller make? If I were in your situation I would make an agreement with the seller that if you discover a bad engine, bad transmission, or bad clutch or throwout bearing that he take it back with full return of your money. With these unknowns, your expense to get this truck going could be near zero, or very expensive in time and parts.

However, if you are getting a really good buy on this truck (which you should be) then it may be worth the effort. Keep in mind that you could buy a running 404 with known good components for maybe $5k.

Look at components for sale on the Expeditions Imports or other vendor's web page for an idea of cost if a major component is bad.

Bob

Hi Guys,
I may have a line on a 404S for very cheap. I have not owned one before but read a bunch about them. What should I watch out for? Where do these things rust? This is a mid-60's 404S, with a box on the back. It has been sitting for a while as well. Gas motor, not running (needs fuel system gone over and battery). Knowing that this is won't be going out on a test drive, what should I be searching for problem wise? What goes on these things? What would be crazy expensive to repair if there are issues?

Thanks!

[Esmi]

What is the truck's history? Was it running well last time it was used? What claims does the seller make? If I were in your situation I would make an agreement with the seller that if you discover a bad engine, bad transmission, or bad clutch or throwout bearing that he take it back with full return of your money. With these unknowns, your expense to get this truck going could be near zero, or very expensive in time and parts.

Excellent advice, although its a pretty tall order. If the seller were selling a known good item, he would price it as such. The "very cheap" pricing is a discount for the unknowns. You getting the discount, and you getting insurance for the unknowns, doesn't leave a lot for the seller.

(You'll note, however, that I do not own a Mog, whereas Tenmogger owns several. In this light, you should weight our diverging advice accordingly. What I mean is that I probably don't know what I am talking about, whereas he probably does.

[Ford Prefect]

If they will let you, just checking the condition of the oils in every place they have them would be wise.

IE is it tar? Does it have metal bits in it? Look to see if oil is leaking (previously leaked) on the tires. It is possible for the seals to be blown between the axle and the portal hub. This can cause damage if left alone while driving for too long. I do not know if you can check other than that it would leak out of the hubs (Pretty sure they pumpkin would be low on oil then too).

I would second the above statement that you really have to love one of these. I rode in a 404 doka south out of Moab once, and he only managed 45 up that little hill, and we passed a 404 with a radio box on the rear like he was standing still! Mind you that is such an insignificant hill that you hardly notice it is there if at all in a typical car. Further on steal bender they could not go up something my "little jeep" had been up several times in the past. They are super cool trucks, but they are not the end all be all rock crawler some people want them to be. They are a tractor that looks like a truck. If you know that going in, they are great trucks.

You have some great advice up there, so read, soak it up, and I would also go into the Unimog section of the benzworld forum. Lots of great guys there who can give you super advice as well. I learned a ton talking to them, and searching out old threads there. That is most certainly a great resource for the "tech questions" that will most certainly arise (many times) if you buy this truck.

I am also NOT a mog owner, I want one, but knowing what I know now, I am going to wait until I have a LOT more disposable income and other vehicles at my disposal prior to buying my first mog; I still plan to own a mog at some point, but I skipped a great deal on one for the concerns listed.

Regards,
Brian