Long wheel base limitations

darien

Observer
Have any of you with longbed trucks (particularly with crew cabs) been particularly hindered by the wheelbase of your rigs? I want to do trails like the White Rim, get into the Arizona Strip, and go back and forth across the Mojave, and the areas north of Moab (Arches to Zion). I know there are lots of popular recreational trails in Moab I can't do, but I dont care about pure that kind of trip - only long distance back country camping trips.

I am planning on a 2" levelling kit and probably no bigger than 34" tires. In a long bed crew cab, would going up to a 4" lift and 36" tires get me into any significant driveline bind/U joint issues? I have always avoided a lot of lift on my trucks and haven't felt like I needed it.
 

NothingClever

Explorer
I don't have a full-size truck but am currently researching the purchase of one (F250/F350, SuperCab, long bed).

I currently drive a Toyota Tacoma which is exceptionally deft on Rocky Mountain trails. I've been pretty sensitive about the prospect of going from a Toyota Tacoma to a domestic full-size, extended cab, long bed pick-up. My big concern has been turning radius more than width, overall height or clearance/breakover.

Given that you have coil springs, you'll be in better shape than me. I'm in the hunt for a 2002 or earlier SD PS which had leaf springs and a larger turning radius requirement than later models. It will be disheartening to head home (Colorado) on vacation and not be able to make all the switchbacks. However, the good news is if we land a clean 7.3 PS, we'll be able to tow a vehicle with us (perhaps the Tacoma) to use away from the camp ground.

Not sure if a UTV is within your interests but that might be a great option which would alleviate the long wheelbase limitations on switchbacks, etc.
 

goodtimes

Expedition Poseur
Turning radius and overall width are bigger problems than break-over/approach/departure angles - at least in the places where I go.
 

Rot Box

Explorer
I agree with goodtimes. The only time my wheel base drives me nuts is in parking lots and snowed in trails that require me to back out in reverse. I've taken my 91 (CC LB) on White Rim for instance and the wheelbase was the least of my worry's. I do however spend the time determining what trails I should and should not take it on and if it gets too difficult or technical (it is far from a rock crawler) I don't press my luck and will turn around before I get in over my head. As far as the wide open areas I really like the wheelbase. Washboards and such are very manageable and it is straight as an arrow on the long sections of dirt roads. For my needs having the increased off road capability of a shorter rig is not worth giving up the crew cab/long bed for but everyones needs are different. Hope this helps,

Andrew
 

mustangwarrior

Adventurer
i have a 1996 F150, its just a reg cab long bed, but has terrible turning radius and i drag the rear bumper all the time, i'm in my case a lift would help and eventually i'd like to trim the rear and build a wrap around bumper like the yota guys, my old boss had a crew cab short bed F250 with the 6.0, probably an '06 or so, it had incredible turning radius, i was amazed at how sharp it turned for such a big truck
 

biohzrd

New member
Never really had a huge problem with a longer vehicle. The newer trucks seem to have a lot better turn radius then the older models. Just have to pick your lines of approach, and trails a little better. Adjusted my driving style a little to compensate. Not a huge difference. I have seen my dad take his cc lwb Ram 2500 places that jeeps were going. All about driving ability. As stated above, parking lots can be a real pain in the A$%. Has more to do with the fact they are making the spots narrower and with less distance between rows.
 

jronwood

Adventurer
I travel long distances and need the space for a family of 5, my 02' 350 7.3 CC/CC flatbed. If I want to explore I will bring a moto, I have a 4x4 Gator diesel, but it is more utility, the Razor's are more high proformance. I would say trailer in your fun/ "break it" vehical and keep your road wheels for the trip home. I am more of an outdoor enthusiast, hike, backpack, paddle, mountain bike etc,...... I dont want to four wheel, abuse a truck in that way.

Jronwood
 

darien

Observer
Thanks - that's sort of how I figured it. It was a conscious decision to choose payload/capacity over other concerns. I'm used to the length now and it turns tight (with coils up front) and I think with a minimal lift and 34" tires it'll go anywhere I want to go.
 

BurbanAZ

Explorer
the main issues ive had have always been around turning radius. Other than that for steep climbs or descents id much rather have a long wheel base rig with larger brakes. I sometimes consider getting something smaller but for the size i really have been able to get everywhere i wanted to, it may have just taken a little more thinking (and some scratches) to get there. I wouldnt give up the payload either i have a 92 3/4 ton suburban with a 454 and it drives pretty much exactly the same completely loaded up with gear and i can haul a bunch more gear without it even feeling it. The smaller rigs are nice but when you load them up with a bunch of gear you can usually feel the difference
 

98dango

Expedition Leader
I have had and wheeled many a fullsize rige and never had a problem with it. My 93 f250 6" lift and 35s had a turning problem but it just ment I planned my attack better.
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Actually I haven't found it to be much of a problem outside of the width. Dodge Rams have a fairly tight turning radius so that hasn't been a problem. I thought length might be an issue but after about 500 miles of trails, it hasn't been a problem. Most issues has been the width as some of the trails can get overgrown with brush. I don't mind a little pin stripping so it doesn't slow me down too much. :)
 

SGTTOM

New Explorer
I'm also considering a minimal lift for my 09 Silverado, I went out to the desert the other day and did touch mid frame to dirt. It wasn't a big deal but it wouldn't hurt to have a little more clearance. I'm running a 2in leveling kit and stock size BFG AT's. The tires I think are the life saver(and rear locking diff). As far as turning I was surprised when I took a tight turn and a some what steep angle how well my rig did(scared my wife a little lol). I do drag the hitch in the dirt coming off bumps and stuff. Usually the hitch will win over the dirt, but I wouldn't try rock. On open desert I have had no problems in my almost all stock 4x4. Good luck!
 

1stDeuce

Explorer
Granted I have a Jeep for real wheeling, but I've had my '06 GMC CCSB a few places where it impressed me. With the Hallmark in the bed, no less!! I though it'd drag the belly over a lot of the water diversions I crossed, but it didn't touch a single one. Clearance under the rear diff and a non-functional G80 ended up being the limiting factor, and I am running 285's. (probably a good thing the locker didn't work, since I'd just have perched it high and dry on the diff instead of getting stopped...) I think a larger than stock tire is the best answer for getting off the beaten path, but if you really want to wheel where it's tight, you need lift and less wheelbase. So far as I know, none of the places you talked about are what I consider tight. Having just been there in a Toyota 4-runner, I'd take my truck around White Rim, no problem! Then again, I think I could get a decent car around there no problem too, as it is a "road", not a trail. :)
C
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
I am planning on a 2" levelling kit and probably no bigger than 34" tires. In a long bed crew cab, would going up to a 4" lift and 36" tires get me into any significant driveline bind/U joint issues? I have always avoided a lot of lift on my trucks and haven't felt like I needed it.

No bind or driveline issues at all with a 2005 Suprduty. The longer trucks are easy to lift than short trucks.

I recommend BDS's 4" lift kit if you decide to go 4". Get the multilink and new rear springs. It'll also drop your carrier bearing. You may have to shim your diff up or down, it's not rocket science. When the BDS shock's wear out switch to Bilstein 5100's.

The only hard part is finding strong steel wheels an inch wider than stock, that still tuck in nicely, and don't stick out like a hillbilly 4x4.

My 2008 has slightly larger wheel wells. I'm going to try a 5" (1" taller than a stock f350) rear block, and a 2.5" Icon front leveling spring. Icon adjustable trac bar, and Bilstein 5100's. Hopefully it'll be 1" higher in the rear, so I won't have to air up my air springs too often. So that I can run (34") 285/75 17 BFG K2's. A 4" kit and 36" tires are overkill for me, and the lower I stay, the better I tow.

I got out my tape measure yesterday. 285/75-17 fit's my truck just fine with no mods. But I at least want to sit as high as a stock level'd F350 anyways.
 

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